Hey, i currently own a Toyota Levin GT APEX. Great little car, very reliable and makes reasonable power for the little engine it has. I am looking at getting a Celica GT Four (its a 1990 model). Trouble is, I dont really know anything about them! So what I need to know is how reliable they are, and what areas of trouble they have (if any). Any and all help is most welcome.
Cheers!
Celica GT Four, Reliable?
Moderator: The Mod Squad
Hey
if you want some indepth detail visit Celicatech.com, should answer alot of you questions, otherwise use the search function here.
Some things to watch out for that i can think of....
Powersteering leaks
Non factory boost
Gearbox (weaker syncros compared to most toyotas, some are good, some have been given death)
you will find quite a bit of difference going from a lightweight AE101 (weighing AROUND or just under 1100kgs i think), to a gt4 (which is around 1450kgs)
noticable differences, more bottom end torque in the gt4, its turb, so you will need money for petrol, and insurance if you require it.
but yea, im sure others will point out various other things.
if you want some indepth detail visit Celicatech.com, should answer alot of you questions, otherwise use the search function here.
Some things to watch out for that i can think of....
Powersteering leaks
Non factory boost
Gearbox (weaker syncros compared to most toyotas, some are good, some have been given death)
you will find quite a bit of difference going from a lightweight AE101 (weighing AROUND or just under 1100kgs i think), to a gt4 (which is around 1450kgs)
noticable differences, more bottom end torque in the gt4, its turb, so you will need money for petrol, and insurance if you require it.
but yea, im sure others will point out various other things.
I had vtax 
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CozmoNz
- Toyspeed Member
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Higher than factory boost pressure, signs someones had a tinker.
a boost gauge also is a sign someones had a play, or planed to had a play, your average old man wont barly boost... compared to the youngan who fits a boost gauge just to *keep an eye on it*. (lead foot syndrome).
I dont think they have weak syncros... a majority of them are just given more shit than other toyotas.
oh yeh, and in the wet
oh so helpful 4wd.
a boost gauge also is a sign someones had a play, or planed to had a play, your average old man wont barly boost... compared to the youngan who fits a boost gauge just to *keep an eye on it*. (lead foot syndrome).
I dont think they have weak syncros... a majority of them are just given more shit than other toyotas.
oh yeh, and in the wet
oh so helpful 4wd.Outta here on Dec 5th, 1630, WHOO HOO
Rayne For President!
Rayne For President!
Having just sold one and bought a Levin...
What are you after? I think that the GT-Four has plenty of potential and they are getting very cheap now too. The main reasons why I sold mine were...
Gas - compare the bill to my current Levin... laughable
Parts - expensive and genuine only... generally!
Labour - I have yet to find someone that likes working on them. I didn't, neither did any of the people that got my "too hard basket jobs"
Weight and 4WD - just sucks knowing that your carting all that weight around, impacts the handling and 4WD is sapping top end.
Km's - most are gettting up in the k's and so you have to expect parts to show signs of wear (read points 2 &3!)
Up to you, but speaking from a been there done that... well unless you have the money to throw at it, leave it for someone else.
What are you after? I think that the GT-Four has plenty of potential and they are getting very cheap now too. The main reasons why I sold mine were...
Gas - compare the bill to my current Levin... laughable
Parts - expensive and genuine only... generally!
Labour - I have yet to find someone that likes working on them. I didn't, neither did any of the people that got my "too hard basket jobs"
Weight and 4WD - just sucks knowing that your carting all that weight around, impacts the handling and 4WD is sapping top end.
Km's - most are gettting up in the k's and so you have to expect parts to show signs of wear (read points 2 &3!)
Up to you, but speaking from a been there done that... well unless you have the money to throw at it, leave it for someone else.
'97 Caldina GT (ST215G)
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vvega
lol
they sycros die because toyot ain all the wisdone put one of the bigest gear clusters they ever made and coupled tinny sycros to it
of cause there not gunna be happy
as for gt4's and reliabilty
well thats just dont go togeathier to wel in my books
there not a set and forget car
you have to always be looking after them
religous oil changes
as soon ans somethign goes wrong fix it
there a enthosests car
if your one of them youll love it
if you tend to forget stuff youll end up with a massive bill
v
they sycros die because toyot ain all the wisdone put one of the bigest gear clusters they ever made and coupled tinny sycros to it
of cause there not gunna be happy
as for gt4's and reliabilty
well thats just dont go togeathier to wel in my books
there not a set and forget car
you have to always be looking after them
religous oil changes
as soon ans somethign goes wrong fix it
there a enthosests car
if your one of them youll love it
if you tend to forget stuff youll end up with a massive bill
v
This is the one I'm looking at swapping with:
http://www.trademe.co.nz/structure/auct ... key=432650
I'm basically after a car that makes a bit of power, and is fairly reliable, and cheap (Im a poor high school student!). Having said this I do realise that any car that makes good power is probably going to have its fair share of problems sometime in its life....
Cheers for all the help.
http://www.trademe.co.nz/structure/auct ... key=432650
I'm basically after a car that makes a bit of power, and is fairly reliable, and cheap (Im a poor high school student!). Having said this I do realise that any car that makes good power is probably going to have its fair share of problems sometime in its life....
Cheers for all the help.
Levin wrote:This is the one I'm looking at swapping with:
http://www.trademe.co.nz/structure/auct ... key=432650
I'm basically after a car that makes a bit of power, and is fairly reliable, and cheap (Im a poor high school student!). Having said this I do realise that any car that makes good power is probably going to have its fair share of problems sometime in its life....
Cheers for all the help.
I think the saying goes something like "pick two of those"
)
From the opinion of someone that just picked up a Gt4 2 days ago.
THEY FRIGGIN ROCK!!!
I know its going to need some money spent on it right away, but im prepared for that and more than willing to. But they do seems to need some minor things here and there.. even my Older gt4 has allways needed something ( 70 bucks Engine mount here, etc etc ).
THEY FRIGGIN ROCK!!!
I know its going to need some money spent on it right away, but im prepared for that and more than willing to. But they do seems to need some minor things here and there.. even my Older gt4 has allways needed something ( 70 bucks Engine mount here, etc etc ).
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RedMist
- Old Skool User!
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- Contact:
Most unreliable car I have EVER owned. Slow as three legged Rhino, and about twice as heavy.
The viscous coupling center diff is worse than useless, its dangerous. I couldnt predict reliably where the power was going to be transfered too, which meant either push or oversteer dependant on which way the diff decided to push slightly more power. In the wet it was worse as slight differences in power transfer are more evident.
In the nine months I owned it, we replaced. The clutch, headgasket, waterpump, complete head, rear diff mount, welded the clutch pedal back to the firewall (common!), replaced several boost lines... and I still sold it needing synchros.
It does make a nice long distance, slow tourer, however all in all NOT impressed.
The viscous coupling center diff is worse than useless, its dangerous. I couldnt predict reliably where the power was going to be transfered too, which meant either push or oversteer dependant on which way the diff decided to push slightly more power. In the wet it was worse as slight differences in power transfer are more evident.
In the nine months I owned it, we replaced. The clutch, headgasket, waterpump, complete head, rear diff mount, welded the clutch pedal back to the firewall (common!), replaced several boost lines... and I still sold it needing synchros.
It does make a nice long distance, slow tourer, however all in all NOT impressed.
The answer is Helmholtz!
Toyota ST185 Celica Rally.
Toyota ST205 Celica Rally.
Jimco/ Cosworth 350z Offroader - 609whp at 16psi
Toyota ST185 Celica Rally.
Toyota ST205 Celica Rally.
Jimco/ Cosworth 350z Offroader - 609whp at 16psi
I loved my GT4 while I had it, but if you're a "poor student", this is not the car for you. They're hellishly expensive to run (I'm getting the same km's out of $50 gas in my new car as I was getting from $95 gas in the GT4), and as everyone else has mentioned, very heavy. They respond well to a few mods, and will seriously haul ass with 12psi and some weight reduction ... but that just means the car is even more thirsty.
They have a number of common faults (rear diff mounts, synchros, clutch pedal etc), although if these are checked for, and fixed immediately when found, then its not too bad. About the best thing I could say about the GT4 is that the interior is great. The ST185 seats are some of the most comfortable factory seats I've sat in.
In all honesty, I would suggest rather going for an AE111 bzr/bzg/bzv. A bit more power than your current car, FAR cheaper to run and insure, and cost around the same price. A lightly modified AE111 will beat a factory ST185, and will still cost less to run.
They have a number of common faults (rear diff mounts, synchros, clutch pedal etc), although if these are checked for, and fixed immediately when found, then its not too bad. About the best thing I could say about the GT4 is that the interior is great. The ST185 seats are some of the most comfortable factory seats I've sat in.
In all honesty, I would suggest rather going for an AE111 bzr/bzg/bzv. A bit more power than your current car, FAR cheaper to run and insure, and cost around the same price. A lightly modified AE111 will beat a factory ST185, and will still cost less to run.
