Reliability of Blacktop 4AGE's
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Reliability of Blacktop 4AGE's
Hey guys,
Done a bit of a search, couldnt find exactly what i was after so decided to post:
I'm in the market for an AE111 BZ wagon but need a bit of advice on blacktop 4AGEs. (im a born again Toyota man after 3x Nissans and 1x Honda)
Ive seen a lot of blacktops on TM that have been rebuilt between only 150,000km and 200,000km (one after only 100,000km!) and it worries me a bit.
Is the reason behind this the blacktops week/light rods and them failing after people drive them hard for a while, or something even more sinister and internals failing with just normal driving?
i had a blue top AE82 that had done 230,000km and gave it arseholes and it kept going all the way to 300,000km before dying i'm told. i know it might be a case of 'they dont build them like they used to' but if there is a big problem with blacktops i'd like to know.
i like the odd bit of camping so it would need to be able to cart a bit of weight in the back once or twice a year - does the blacktop handle hauling a bit of weight ok or is this stress the same as revving it high for a long period? i know if the rods do fail i'll rebuild it with silvertop rods but would like to avoid the downtime if possible.
Any particular things to look out for while test driving would be much appreciated also. i'll be looking for an auto one too as it'll be a daily driver in akl.
Cheers,
Ben
Done a bit of a search, couldnt find exactly what i was after so decided to post:
I'm in the market for an AE111 BZ wagon but need a bit of advice on blacktop 4AGEs. (im a born again Toyota man after 3x Nissans and 1x Honda)
Ive seen a lot of blacktops on TM that have been rebuilt between only 150,000km and 200,000km (one after only 100,000km!) and it worries me a bit.
Is the reason behind this the blacktops week/light rods and them failing after people drive them hard for a while, or something even more sinister and internals failing with just normal driving?
i had a blue top AE82 that had done 230,000km and gave it arseholes and it kept going all the way to 300,000km before dying i'm told. i know it might be a case of 'they dont build them like they used to' but if there is a big problem with blacktops i'd like to know.
i like the odd bit of camping so it would need to be able to cart a bit of weight in the back once or twice a year - does the blacktop handle hauling a bit of weight ok or is this stress the same as revving it high for a long period? i know if the rods do fail i'll rebuild it with silvertop rods but would like to avoid the downtime if possible.
Any particular things to look out for while test driving would be much appreciated also. i'll be looking for an auto one too as it'll be a daily driver in akl.
Cheers,
Ben
If the rods fail you probably wont be 'rebuilding' it... I think most people call it replacement 
red car
1/4 mile - 14.683s @ 91.83mph
Manfield - 1:24s
Taupo - Track1 1:53s (road tyres) - Track2 1:22s - Track3 48s (with esses) - Track4 1:58s
1/4 mile - 14.683s @ 91.83mph
Manfield - 1:24s
Taupo - Track1 1:53s (road tyres) - Track2 1:22s - Track3 48s (with esses) - Track4 1:58s
They are pretty reliable if you keep all the fluids topped up. They usually use oil, and so half the rebuilds are probably related to people not being auto savvy and not checking the oil, which leads to bearings going.
Only run it on 98 too due to detonation on lower fuels.
It will carry ya gear no worries, I've filled mine to the brim with camping gears/booze and driven 1500km without a problem. Once again, tho, keep the oil etc topped up.
done 45,000km in mine and just done the usual service every 5000km, never missed a beat.
Only run it on 98 too due to detonation on lower fuels.
It will carry ya gear no worries, I've filled mine to the brim with camping gears/booze and driven 1500km without a problem. Once again, tho, keep the oil etc topped up.
done 45,000km in mine and just done the usual service every 5000km, never missed a beat.
I have two cars with the b/ts in them. Ones my race car 140ks and it has proven reliable. The other is my street car 173ks which also sees 8k rpm on a regular basis.
Just keep the oil topped up and clean. I change oil and filter every 5k in the street car and every two events in my race car.
Just keep the oil topped up and clean. I change oil and filter every 5k in the street car and every two events in my race car.
www.europeandirect.co.nz
1996 AE111 BZ-G: TRD equipped road legal Club Car (Manfeild 1.25s) (SOLD)
1995 AE111 BZ-G: Stereo and daily driver (SOLD)
2005 NZ New Evo 9 GT (specd to FQ360) daily driver
2012 NZ New Outlander VRX - V6 family wagon
1996 AE111 BZ-G: TRD equipped road legal Club Car (Manfeild 1.25s) (SOLD)
1995 AE111 BZ-G: Stereo and daily driver (SOLD)
2005 NZ New Evo 9 GT (specd to FQ360) daily driver
2012 NZ New Outlander VRX - V6 family wagon
RICERX wrote:righto, well i've found one and for a very good price.
it does have the common ticking noise at idle (hydraulic lifters?) from under the cam cover, is there a way of getting rid of this? oil change has been done recently.
cheers
ben
It doesn't have hydraulic lifter.
They are generally noisier than most of the cars in the valve area.
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Normally intake cam gear noise?
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thats a relief - the old man is in the process of installing a silvertop in his aw11 and told me tonight on the phone that it is normal for 20V engiens to make a bit more noise.
well i bought the one i was looking at and am well pleased!
just took it for a blat on the south-western and very impressed by the power!
well i bought the one i was looking at and am well pleased!
just took it for a blat on the south-western and very impressed by the power!
will do, am planning on putting it over the pit on the weekend at work and going over it with a fine toothed comb to find any problems i may have inherited.
it was too cheap to say no to really so im expecting something to be wrong!
what oil do you recommend running in these engines? (or will i find that info somewhere else....)
it was too cheap to say no to really so im expecting something to be wrong!
what oil do you recommend running in these engines? (or will i find that info somewhere else....)
I use castrol gtx protec 15w 40 in both my blacktops. Seems to do the trick and is cheap so that the inevitable topping up aint so bad. I like fram filters with the non slip grip.
www.europeandirect.co.nz
1996 AE111 BZ-G: TRD equipped road legal Club Car (Manfeild 1.25s) (SOLD)
1995 AE111 BZ-G: Stereo and daily driver (SOLD)
2005 NZ New Evo 9 GT (specd to FQ360) daily driver
2012 NZ New Outlander VRX - V6 family wagon
1996 AE111 BZ-G: TRD equipped road legal Club Car (Manfeild 1.25s) (SOLD)
1995 AE111 BZ-G: Stereo and daily driver (SOLD)
2005 NZ New Evo 9 GT (specd to FQ360) daily driver
2012 NZ New Outlander VRX - V6 family wagon
- touge rolla
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- Location: Wellington
I used Pennzoil "Family car" and "Multi-Vis" in my Blacktop BZ-G Trueno.
Seemed to go alright. I tried a lighter oil (can't remember what it was) and made engine sound louder and used more oil than usual.
Pennzoil is in a 5 litre pack, so you have enough to do your top ups until the next oil change.
Seemed to go alright. I tried a lighter oil (can't remember what it was) and made engine sound louder and used more oil than usual.
Pennzoil is in a 5 litre pack, so you have enough to do your top ups until the next oil change.