help me work on my ST205 please

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ihavelift
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help me work on my ST205 please

Post by ihavelift »

OK, so, I don't want to try and use toyspeed as a place to get people to do my shit for me, but I have a few basic things that needs doing to my car that I would like to learn how to do myself.

I was wondering if there was anybody in Auckland (west Auckland) that has experience with ST205s and could teach me a thing or 2 about working on them. Just need shit done like fluid changes, fuel filter, general maintenance stuff.

So if anybody has a liking for beer and wouldn't mind helping me out that would be awesome.

Cheers,

Nick
Current: 2000 Honda Accord Wagon CF6
Previous: 97 Toyota Celica GT4 ST205; 2001 Toyota Allex RS180, 96 Nissan Sentra SG

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xsspeed
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Post by xsspeed »

Can't really help but I recommend getting a haynes manual for your car or something along those lines as they pretty much tell you how to do all that.
Use toyodiy.com to figure out which bit is which (assuming its accurate - I've never had a problem so far)
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sergei
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Post by sergei »

Fluids are very straight forward.


Engine oil: drain plug on the sump (14mm bolt). Oil filter hidden behind plastic guard under A/C compressor once the drivers side plastic guard (engine area, not wheel area) is taken off you can't miss the filter.
Oil change is very simple, drain it on hot, put the sump plug back in and tighten (not too tight, the oil is not held by thread, but by washer), swap filters (fill filter with oil too if paranoid like me), make sure the gasket from old filter is off as well (sometimes cheap shit filters leave gasket behind). Filter must be tighten 3/4 turns by hand from gasket contact. Fill the engine with oil, hold the can sideways not vertical (like so [o----] ) , otherwise it will be "gulping" you will have oil everywhere. Put the oil cap (aka 710) back on.
Start the engine, immediately check for leaks, especially around the filter. Stop check the oil level again, most likely you will need to top it up again. You will need about ~4L.

Gearbox oil: there are 2 drain plugs (24mm bolts) on ST205, one on the transfer case (right side of the car) another on gearbox itself (right under left inner CV joint). Gearbox is filled from 1 place - half way on the gearbox there is a bolt 24mm facing towards radiator (confusion arises because it needs to be drained from two places). Drain from both places, tighten drain plugs (not too tight - again - washer). Fill via funnel+hose, takes very long, recommend placing (un-opened) oil jugs in hot water for 1 hour before. The side fill hole determines the level of oil, if oil starts coming out of it it means it is overfilled ;). When the gearbox is filled properly the oil would be just up to the fill hole on the side of the gearbox.
it takes slightly over 5L.

Diff oil: $&#$% pain in the ass if you don't have big as suringe or some pumping device. I would not recommend doing it unless you have a way of pumping oil into it. You could get away with hose and funnel sticking out on side of the car but takes ages and is very messy. Drain hole is right on the bottom of the diff, you can't miss it. The filler plug is on the back where diff mount is, there is even a provisional hole for the socket to reach to it. Same as with gearbox fill to the level of drain hole, excess will come out of it. ~1.1L

NOTE: first oil change is bound to be extremely messy, stuff like draining wrong oil (gearbox instead of engine), pouring oil while drain plug is undone, forgetting to put oil cap back on when starting the engine, and other silly stuff like that happens to best of us, so best to do your first oil change with a mate that checks your doing. And double and triple check that there is oil in engine before you start it.
WARNING: common sense applies.
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ihavelift
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Post by ihavelift »

awesome, thanks for all that sergei.

Might pay to get somebody qualified to do the diff oil .. the rest i'll manage myself
Current: 2000 Honda Accord Wagon CF6
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®usty
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Post by ®usty »

the manuals I gave you should help :)

engine oil change should be straight forward and sergei expainations should help.
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Post by Prymal »

sounds like a need of group Buys for toyota genuine service manuals are needed

haynes done cover the SAt2105 as far as i know - but i can check tomorro via work
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loudstealthGT-Four
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Post by loudstealthGT-Four »

I'm keen for an ST185 Manuel
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®usty
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Post by ®usty »

do you need the ST205 3S-GTE engine and chassis repair manual aswell classique71?
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AE86less
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Post by AE86less »

To pump oil into my gearbox I used a liquid handsoap bottle with a hose over the end of the nozzle to the box. Was slow but worked fine, find a bigger pump/bottle and it'd be better.

Should be the same for the diff.
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jakesae101
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Post by jakesae101 »

toyota do a good one when you buy supercharger oil its a 100ml syringe with a clear hose on it beacuse thats the only way to get the dam stuff in although it may take a while to fill a gearbox
I appologise for my bad grammar

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Post by xsspeed »

buy yourself on of the 1 or 2L (?) bottles of oil, they generally have a hose extension (at least the ones I've bought have) and you can use it again
cogent

Post by cogent »

When I was doing the gearbox oil on my rx7 I was pretty on2it.

I got some garden hose and shoved it into the fill point, with the other end of the hose running up past the bellhousing and into the engine bay. I then jammed a funnel into the other end of the garden hose.

My theory was, that when the fill point was reached it would spill out of the fill point. What actually happened, was the garden hose formed a tight seal around the fill hole.. :lol:

So anyway im sitting there pouring more and more oil into this funnel and checking the hose at the gearbox end, when suddenly i see it start to seep out "ah, $&#$% choice my plan worked perfect , and just when i thought i'd put too much oil in 8)". I tidied up the funnel and got on the creeper under the car and yanked the hose out. Like 2l of oil shot out the side of the box lol and spilled all over the garage floor. Gear oil smells choice, so now my garage smells choice.
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Paulio
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Post by Paulio »

remember when youre installing a new oil filter, it pays to put a thin film of oil on to the rubber gasket first so the gasket can slip in to place nicely without hesitation.
like trying to root a dry vagina, use lube or you mite break your banjo ;-)
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sergei
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Post by sergei »

Paulio wrote:remember when youre installing a new oil filter, it pays to put a thin film of oil on to the rubber gasket first so the gasket can slip in to place nicely without hesitation.
like trying to root a dry vagina, use lube or you mite break your banjo ;-)


That only applies to non-TGP filters, as Toyota Genuine filters come with greased up seal.
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ihavelift
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Post by ihavelift »

sergei wrote:
Paulio wrote:remember when youre installing a new oil filter, it pays to put a thin film of oil on to the rubber gasket first so the gasket can slip in to place nicely without hesitation.
like trying to root a dry vagina, use lube or you mite break your banjo ;-)


That only applies to non-TGP filters, as Toyota Genuine filters come with greased up seal.


if only toyota made muffs. win.
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dnalunchie
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Post by dnalunchie »

ihavelift wrote:
sergei wrote:
Paulio wrote:remember when youre installing a new oil filter, it pays to put a thin film of oil on to the rubber gasket first so the gasket can slip in to place nicely without hesitation.
like trying to root a dry vagina, use lube or you mite break your banjo ;-)


That only applies to non-TGP filters, as Toyota Genuine filters come with greased up seal.


if only toyota made muffs. win.


this thread is awesum !
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ee904age
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Post by ee904age »

On a side note, I brought some Castrol edge for the SW, and it has a cool new "anti-glug-glug" bottle! So long as you pour it in at a steady pace it works awesome!
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0EBUNY
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Post by 0EBUNY »

lol this thred is awsome what a crack up made my night

some good points in here too just funny the way some of ya explain stuff "anti glug glug"
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