Toyspeed

Single Axel, sprung, braked, tilting and galv dipped.
If your towing with a smaller car (rated to 1600kg) I would give the brakes a birthday before starting. (Says with experience of towing with a Commodore and about 10% braking capacity -due to being old and cooked - over the Rimutakas - 2 feet on ...

Hackaday.com has had articles over the past week about the protocols and how they work and today listed a bunch of modules that interface to the CANBUS.

Might be worth a read.

Which one of the 6 wires in the entire car is the issue with

xsspeed wrote:Can I get confirmation on the need to grind down the 275mm discs when using a MS AE111 hub with BZR twinpots

yes to about 261mm

I done up a few with the rattlegun, nothing has ever snapped or come off...
I have a decent rattlegun however, and I always locktite the bolt.

Thanks everyone

I ended up getting them off trademe as the 4.8mm ones are not *so* common.

Its not in the Narva range, its is in the Tridon range but BNT and Repco wanted about $2 a clamp.

Twiggs and Paykels didnt carry the 4.8mm one.

Some dude on trademe $44 for 35 clamps.

Hello all

where is the best place to get decent P-clips to hold rigid brake line (4.7mm) to the body. Looking for the rubber and steel ones not the plastic Trojan ones.

I remember we used to be able to get them at Repco at a stupid price, I need about 40.

Thanks in advance.

My trailer has all AL-KO bits https://shop.alko.co.nz/, looks like trojan takes trojan replacement parts but is about 1/2 the price

Does anyone know how to bleed air out of a AE101 / Corolla power steering rack.

I had to remove the rack to make modifications to the rack ends awhile ago and now (after re-attaching all the lines + filling with new fluid) when the wheels are turned the pump makes a racket.

Thanks in advance.

Nothing wrong with a single axle.. If your building trailer its not much more to add hydraulic brakes at the time.

As for door clearance, add swinging guards (have a look at my madfx build thread there should be a pick of it in there). - however even with a drop axle I only need to lower the ...

Boost_4_Life wrote:how come you arent going in line with the normal brake line?

Cause I did this in the past and found it very discocerting when braking.. .. my old H/B now belongs to Distrb

The misses dad is a qualified builder - 1 man band - http://built4ultd.co.nz/

Hi all

I'm working currently to install a second pair of rear calipers on the back of the racecar as I intend to re-install the hydraulic handbrake to actuate the second set of calipers (the events in Wellington almost always involve a hairpin).

The handbrake I plan to put in has a 3/4 bore ...

thats pretty cheap compared to the AIM ones

leave it half gravel - seal the rest.. ohh wait doesnt that sound like UK rally-cross.. ohhh now this would be fun!

Give the guy at Znoelli a call

http://www.znoelli.co.nz/

He has a spreadsheet of every rotor he can get - thus you can spin through to find something that will (hopefully) suit. It used to be online but I cant find it in the website

I have plans for my trailer in CAD (well did anyway.. finding them might be a different story)

Single axel tilting, whack on some sides and its enclosed...

Ashley Audio

Ian has been doing this for the past like 20 years, only person in Wellington whos actually an electrician aka repairs circuit boards / car stereos etc.

So if one has spare blacktop injectors and a silvertop engine, they should put the blacktop injectors in

My Speadsheet with comparions between c52 and c56, TRD and Chelles crazy Mitsi Mirage short ratio box.

http://ae101.tappsville.com/hosted/GearRatios.xls

And for shiz and giggles, enter the file name wrong in the URL above