New thread

The place for all technical car discussions. If you haven't already, read our Disclaimer first!

Moderator: The Mod Squad

Postby rollaholic » Fri Jan 25, 2008 10:29 pm

i recommend finding a replacement steering column before you try any tapping, drilling, dieing antics.

good way to find yourself carless when things go pear shaped ;)
BASU!
User avatar
rollaholic
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 5383
Joined: Fri May 28, 2004 2:19 am
Location: West is Best

Postby FST4RD » Fri Jan 25, 2008 10:33 pm

Only thing is that if you ever worked on a starion anyone will tell you that it's the last job you want to do to one of them is remove the steering colum.... Totally serious....
This is why i'm trying to find out other options before having to resort to fing a colum and then attempting to swap them...
1983 Mitsubishi Starion
1995 Subaru legacy GT SW

http://toyspeed.blakjak.net/profiles/pr ... hp?id=1542
User avatar
FST4RD
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 2380
Joined: Thu Apr 15, 2004 5:25 pm
Location: Christchurch

Postby rollaholic » Fri Jan 25, 2008 10:36 pm

im not saying go ahead and swap it - i know you have a starion, i figured spare parts would be sparse. might want to find where you can get one from before you start hacking into your current one ;)
BASU!
User avatar
rollaholic
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 5383
Joined: Fri May 28, 2004 2:19 am
Location: West is Best

Postby FST4RD » Fri Jan 25, 2008 10:38 pm

rollaholic wrote:im not saying go ahead and swap it - i know you have a starion, i figured spare parts would be sparse. might want to find where you can get one from before you start hacking into your current one ;)


Yeah thats true I see what you mean :)
Well suppose I should find one.... then try a new thread on the one thats in there, if that doesn't work try drilling and tapping, then if that doesn't work pull half the front of the car to bits and try to get the old colum out and new one in :x
1983 Mitsubishi Starion
1995 Subaru legacy GT SW

http://toyspeed.blakjak.net/profiles/pr ... hp?id=1542
User avatar
FST4RD
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 2380
Joined: Thu Apr 15, 2004 5:25 pm
Location: Christchurch

Postby rollaholic » Fri Jan 25, 2008 10:42 pm

i once accidentally scored the end of a camshaft at work, the scratch was big enough to damage the seal when the camshaft was turning - so it leaked and leaked.

solution was to send camshaft to engine rebuilder, they built up a layer of weld of some sort over the end of the camshaft, then machined it back down to the correct size to get rid of the imperfection.

maybe you could find a place to do something similar for you, only with a thread instead?
BASU!
User avatar
rollaholic
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 5383
Joined: Fri May 28, 2004 2:19 am
Location: West is Best

Postby FST4RD » Sat Jan 26, 2008 7:54 am

rollaholic wrote:i once accidentally scored the end of a camshaft at work, the scratch was big enough to damage the seal when the camshaft was turning - so it leaked and leaked.

solution was to send camshaft to engine rebuilder, they built up a layer of weld of some sort over the end of the camshaft, then machined it back down to the correct size to get rid of the imperfection.

maybe you could find a place to do something similar for you, only with a thread instead?


I think if the other solutions couldn't work and I had to take it I would do that or get it lathed down to the next size and threaded properly.
I mean the nut does up tight enough that if you yank on the steering wheel real hard it doesn't pull off but it's a little bit loose and you can feel the lack of thread...
1983 Mitsubishi Starion
1995 Subaru legacy GT SW

http://toyspeed.blakjak.net/profiles/pr ... hp?id=1542
User avatar
FST4RD
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 2380
Joined: Thu Apr 15, 2004 5:25 pm
Location: Christchurch

Postby Matty104 » Sat Jan 26, 2008 9:20 am

id suggest to just run the m12 die over the old thread and see if you can regain any meat (as cross threading it in the past may have not nesesarily taken to much steel away just squashed it if that makes sense) once you run the die over, run some thread tape around the thread , (or locktite if your never going to take it off) and it should be more secure , and if you feel you want more safety do the m8 or m6 bolt down the center if the shaft with the washers
'Tron E30 Massif
89 BMW 325sci
User avatar
Matty104
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 197
Joined: Tue May 22, 2007 6:18 pm
Location: Hamilton

Postby FST4RD » Sat Jan 26, 2008 1:18 pm

Matty104 wrote:id suggest to just run the m12 die over the old thread and see if you can regain any meat (as cross threading it in the past may have not nesesarily taken to much steel away just squashed it if that makes sense) once you run the die over, run some thread tape around the thread , (or locktite if your never going to take it off) and it should be more secure , and if you feel you want more safety do the m8 or m6 bolt down the center if the shaft with the washers


Thanks for that, thats the plan for now...
Just got to find someone with a big enough die to run over it...
1983 Mitsubishi Starion
1995 Subaru legacy GT SW

http://toyspeed.blakjak.net/profiles/pr ... hp?id=1542
User avatar
FST4RD
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 2380
Joined: Thu Apr 15, 2004 5:25 pm
Location: Christchurch

Postby Dell'Orto » Sat Jan 26, 2008 1:40 pm

You can actually get a die that is in 2 pieces, which you clamp around the good thread and wind back up over the stuffed section, which could be enough to give you a good threaded section again.
1988 KE70 Wagon - Slowly rusting
1990 NA6 MX-5 - because reasons
2018 Ranger - Because workcar
1997 FD3S RX-7 Type R - all brap, all the time
OMG so shiny!

Quint wrote:Not just cock, large cock.
User avatar
Dell'Orto
** Moderator **
 
Posts: 17494
Joined: Tue Jul 08, 2003 5:07 am
Location: Straight out the ghetto, Lower Hutt

Postby FST4RD » Sat Jan 26, 2008 3:20 pm

Dell'Orto wrote:You can actually get a die that is in 2 pieces, which you clamp around the good thread and wind back up over the stuffed section, which could be enough to give you a good threaded section again.


Really? might head down to Mitre 10 mega and have a nosey I think...
1983 Mitsubishi Starion
1995 Subaru legacy GT SW

http://toyspeed.blakjak.net/profiles/pr ... hp?id=1542
User avatar
FST4RD
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 2380
Joined: Thu Apr 15, 2004 5:25 pm
Location: Christchurch

Postby RS13 » Sat Jan 26, 2008 3:46 pm

FST4RD wrote:
Dell'Orto wrote:You can actually get a die that is in 2 pieces, which you clamp around the good thread and wind back up over the stuffed section, which could be enough to give you a good threaded section again.


Really? might head down to Mitre 10 mega and have a nosey I think...


They're called die nuts. I'm pretty sure split dies are for resizing threads, whereas die nuts are for cleaning up threads, which is probably what you want to try first before resizing. You get them in tap and die kits, not sure where you'd go to get one by itself.. perhaps an engineering tool store if Mitre10 can't help you.
Daily driver: Toyota RunX/Toyota Caldina
Ex: 2x AE101, 5x KP60, KP61, EP71, 3x KE70, KE72, AE70, AE82, 2x TE71, AE90, AE92, ST170, plus 11 Hondas, 12 Nissans, 6 Fords, 4 Mazdas, 3 Mitsis, an Isuzu and a Lada!

Image
User avatar
RS13
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 3580
Joined: Tue Oct 07, 2003 9:07 pm
Location: Christchurch

Postby Dell'Orto » Sat Jan 26, 2008 7:39 pm

Yeah I'd say they're more of an engineering type tool than your average Mitre 10 item, but you never know.
1988 KE70 Wagon - Slowly rusting
1990 NA6 MX-5 - because reasons
2018 Ranger - Because workcar
1997 FD3S RX-7 Type R - all brap, all the time
OMG so shiny!

Quint wrote:Not just cock, large cock.
User avatar
Dell'Orto
** Moderator **
 
Posts: 17494
Joined: Tue Jul 08, 2003 5:07 am
Location: Straight out the ghetto, Lower Hutt

Previous

Return to Tech Questions

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 13 guests

cron