4AGTE

[crnkin]

hes sorta refering to what you want for big numbers, is a smallish exhaust housing, ie quick to spool on small capacity engine, a bigish shaft and wheel combo, ie flow big air, and a big comp cover, for big air flow. t3/ht18 is mint, has put out 350hp atw on a few cars on 8.0:1 at 24psi, go for it, do it

[CAMB01]

Thanks

Anybody got any of those parts?

[Drifter4ag]

ive got one HT18 for sale ... askling for $200 for it

[Crucible]

Thanks

Anybody got any of those parts?

PM EvilSi, he had a HT18/T3 complete for sale .... I nealy bought it but another deal came up, He may still have it??

TNT

[mister2]

I think most of it has been covered... but a couple of rough formula's we use:

1L/min of fuel flow = capable of making 200HP.

So if you're shooting for 400HP you need around 2L/min at desired fuel pressure (static 43.5psi + say 25psi boost = 70psi).

Jumping to www.autoperformanceengineering.com they have flow figures for Walbro pumps and from memory the 255 High Pressure flows around 3L/min, way more than enough. You can test a pump in any car by grabbing a mityvac and pumping the FPR up to desired boost, and then energising the pump and measuring the flow out the return line for a given period. As a validation of the Walbro 255's, I have seen 533WHP made on a single pump, without dropping fuel pressure. Makes you wonder why people bother with anything else!

4AGZE pumps are ok up to around 12-15psi but then fall on their face.

2L/min of fuel /4 = 500cc's, so 550's should do it. Any bigger than this, idle control becomes an issue because of injector minimum opening times.

Don't use a bloody adjustable fuel pressure regulator.

Phil's AE85 (315WHP) was running a full To4e and around 22psi boost. I'd consider putting the 20v head on if I were you as it is a cheap flow upgrade, but it would require a custom inlet manifold. Go to single throttle, multi-throttle turbo's are difficult to tune and will require a very expensive ECU if you want it to drive nicely.

Megasquirts are great if you want to learn about ECU's work and are prepared to devote the time to it. Basically, find a dyno tuner you're happy with and they should be able to point you in the direction of a good ecu.

The world's greatest ECU will still destroy motors with a poor tune - and also, contrary to popular opinion, an expensive/higher spec ECU will by-and-large not make any more power than a cheap one, however it may drive nicer. Make sure it is installed properly - it will save you $$ down the line when the dyno tuner doesn't have to deal with your mates wiring!

Regards,

Nick

[Crucible]

Thanks

Anybody got any of those parts?

PM EvilSi, he had a HT18/T3 complete for sale .... I nealy bought it but another deal came up, He may still have it??

TNT

or heres another one - http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... d=50335293

tnt

[CAMB01]

ive got one HT18 for sale ... askling for $200 for it

Is it just an HT18 off a nissan or something?

[crnkin]

rx7 series 4, or series 5 has slightly better flow

[ae92levin]

Don't use a bloody adjustable fuel pressure regulator.

how come?

just asking..

[evil_si]

Don't use a bloody adjustable fuel pressure regulator.

Nick

thats a pretty bold statement.
care to share your opinions with us?

i personally have used adjustable/ and rising rate fuel regs on many cars, and they have worked really well.
i do however say to stay away from the cheapo generic ones on the market. they are more hassle than they are worth

[mister2]

Justification:

Firstly why do you need one?

1) if non-adjustable ECU (otherwise ECU can do it, right?)
2) if fuel pump is overwhelming factory FPR at IDLE
3) if you're *right* on the limit of your injectors

1) I will concede... however see caveats about quality below
2) is solved by choosing a fuel pump that is appropriate for your requirements, ie not a 600hp fuel pump on a bog stock 20v, or using multi-stage fuel pumps like factory (where they slow the pump down at idle)
3) is solved by not being so tight and instead of spending the cash on your bling FPR putting it towards appropriately sized injectors

Also, while I don't doubt that there are quality ones out there, all the cheap ones that I have seen have been crap quality - fuel pressure not returning to static after boost runs on dyno etc. And the point is, the only reason you bought a adjustable FPR is because they're cheaper than an ECU, right?

This is backed up by seeing the tiny factory Suzuki FPR on Monster Tajima's car at the Goldrush last year

So in this application (shooting for 400hp on a 4AGTE) I would highly recommend against using an adjustable FPR in favour of using an aftermarket ECU.

Regards,

Nick

[:madaz:]

hes sorta refering to what you want for big numbers, is a smallish exhaust housing, ie quick to spool on small capacity engine, a bigish shaft and wheel combo, ie flow big air, and a big comp cover, for big air flow. t3/ht18 is mint, has put out 350hp atw on a few cars on 8.0:1 at 24psi, go for it, do it

this is my view on a smallish turbine and big compressor wheel and shaft;

when a small exhaust wheel is mated to a big compressor wheel, you'll start having problems with exhaust manifold back-pressure, and therefore earlier onset of detonation, which will require you to take more ignition out of it and therefore power is lossed! further,If not ported, and running big boost with the smaller turbine, exhaust gasses are accelled at greater than the speed of sound, which will also cause backpressure issues.
porting will aid this and also a custom manifold which you'll no doubt have. otherwise id stay with a slightly larger turbine wheel, albeit it being 1.6 l.

[CAMB01]

hes sorta refering to what you want for big numbers, is a smallish exhaust housing, ie quick to spool on small capacity engine, a bigish shaft and wheel combo, ie flow big air, and a big comp cover, for big air flow. t3/ht18 is mint, has put out 350hp atw on a few cars on 8.0:1 at 24psi, go for it, do it

this is my view on a smallish turbine and big compressor wheel and shaft;

when a small exhaust wheel is mated to a big compressor wheel, you'll start having problems with exhaust manifold back-pressure, and therefore earlier onset of detonation, which will require you to take more ignition out of it and therefore power is lossed! further,If not ported, and running big boost with the smaller turbine, exhaust gasses are accelled at greater than the speed of sound, which will also cause backpressure issues.
porting will aid this and also a custom manifold which you'll no doubt have. otherwise id stay with a slightly larger turbine wheel, albeit it being 1.6 l.

What are you talking about porting? Porting the turbine housing or porting the head?
The head is being ported.

[:madaz:]

porting the head! what sort of boost control will you use?

[CAMB01]

Electroninc Boost controller

[CAMB01]

Have just done a piston height check in the bores, and they sit perfectly flush with the block surface.

[crnkin]

hes sorta refering to what you want for big numbers, is a smallish exhaust housing, ie quick to spool on small capacity engine, a bigish shaft and wheel combo, ie flow big air, and a big comp cover, for big air flow. t3/ht18 is mint, has put out 350hp atw on a few cars on 8.0:1 at 24psi, go for it, do it

this is my view on a smallish turbine and big compressor wheel and shaft;

when a small exhaust wheel is mated to a big compressor wheel, you'll start having problems with exhaust manifold back-pressure, and therefore earlier onset of detonation, which will require you to take more ignition out of it and therefore power is lossed! further,If not ported, and running big boost with the smaller turbine, exhaust gasses are accelled at greater than the speed of sound, which will also cause backpressure issues.
porting will aid this and also a custom manifold which you'll no doubt have. otherwise id stay with a slightly larger turbine wheel, albeit it being 1.6 l.

I said small exhaust housing, and by bigish shaft/wheel combo, i meant bigish wheel combo, eg big both sides... your completely right in a way, except you didnt quite read what i wrote in the way i meant it to be understood

[CAMB01]

I'm planning on getting a turbo custom made to suit my application

[Drifter4ag]

hang on ... dont you want 250kw@fly ?

Ive already told you the recipe ..
all you need is my setup with a headport and some camshafts ..
or just a t4b front wheel on the ht18
dont try make it more complicated than it has to be

[craigt]

Earlier in this post mister2 stated
"multi-throttle turbo's are difficult to tune and will require a very expensive ECU if you want it to drive nicely."

Can somebody please tell me why????
I would have thought if the ECU was getting an accurate stable vacuum/pressure signal then there wouldnt be a problem
With the MAP sensor working off a correctly dampened feed from multiple runners I cant see why it would be an issue
Lets see some opinions (and hopefully some facts) on that