Toyspeed.org.nz Message Board

by **UTERUS** » Sat Jan 24, 2004 6:14 pm

Yes well i just figured out that 10000 mcp is quite bright. Had it on that surround thing above the stereo and the back window turns green when VVt comes on, it's just right.

Oh and when shopping for a LED look for one that has a warning label on it (mine did), then you know its gonna be bright.....

by **UTERUS** » Sat Jan 24, 2004 6:17 pm

I GOT PAGE THREE

:twisted::twisted:

sorry, instinct.........

98 Hilux · by **TruenoBoy** » Sat Jan 24, 2004 9:17 pm

Cheer 10000MCP

and I thought my 5000MCP blue led was bright, time for and upgrade i think :lol:

by **Lloyd** » Sat Jan 24, 2004 9:35 pm

DSE used to have some 14,000mcd one to. Got a couple sitting here. Best not to look directly at them though, hurts like hell

by **jondee86** » Sun Jan 25, 2004 3:17 pm

Kin ne one tell me wat wire from the ECU you wud hook into to get this to work ?? Thanx

jondee86

by **UTERUS** » Sun Jan 25, 2004 5:20 pm

Its a red wire with a thin black stripe. Light is on when on ACC, off when in the ON position with motor not going and on when motor is under load.

by **UTERUS** » Sun Jan 25, 2004 5:23 pm

Oh and get at it from the passenger footwell, remove that metal horizontal bracket and move the plastic shit out of the way. Cut the loom condom CAREFULLY and look for red with thin black stripe on it, you have to try a few to get the right one.

by **AceSniper** » Sun Jan 25, 2004 7:14 pm

UTERUS wrote:you have to try a few to get the right one.

unplug the main plug... get a ecu diagram (heaps of them online just look) count how many pins along and you will get the right wire first time, dun butcher the loom.

by **jondee86** » Sun Jan 25, 2004 7:37 pm

OK... I dont hve pwr steering so will it be the same wire for man steer ? Thanx

jondee86

by **UTERUS** » Sun Jan 25, 2004 7:46 pm

AceSniper wrote:
UTERUS wrote:you have to try a few to get the right one.

unplug the main plug... get a ecu diagram (heaps of them online just look) count how many pins along and you will get the right wire first time, dun butcher the loom.

Excuse me but my loom is not butchered, i put a small cut in it and then taped it back up. You can't even tell its been tampered with.

by **AceSniper** » Sun Jan 25, 2004 9:07 pm

UTERUS wrote:Excuse me but my loom is not butchered, i put a small cut in it and then taped it back up. You can't even tell its been tampered with.

wasnt saying you were, just it sounded like you were saying "try some wires to you get the right one" the simple way so you dont mess anything up is to find what pin it is on the plug...

On manual ecu =
red wire black strip on the big 26pin plug its the 7th wire along at the top and it turns to earth when VVT comes on

on auto =
its wire 16 on one of the 16plug connectors same wire colour been wire 16 it will be down the end on the bottom there is two 16 pin plugs i think its the first one? ...

by **UTERUS** » Sun Jan 25, 2004 11:41 pm

But thats not the easy way :lol:

by **corollamadness** » Wed Jul 07, 2004 2:41 am

Hey quibel_nz is there anyway i can contact you via email i have a question about the VVT switch you are talking about.

You say you installed a switch that can turn it on and off and you then said when the switch is turned on vvt is activated all throughout the rev range. Now does this mean if i had this switch installed i would lose the ability to have VVT activated at its normal rates like after 4000rpms.

by **boyracer69** » Wed Jul 07, 2004 11:06 am

It will either be on all the time when the switch is "on" and when the switch is "off" means the ecu is controlling it the same as before

by **Distrb** » Wed Jul 07, 2004 1:44 pm

corollamadness wrote:if i had this switch installed i would lose the ability to have VVT activated at its normal rates like after 4000rpms.

its probably been mentioned before in this post somewhere but.....

VVT is completely load dependant.... i.e. it doesnt switch on at a set rpm, like Vtec

by **AceSniper** » Thu Jul 08, 2004 10:45 am

boyracer69 wrote:It will either be on all the time when the switch is "on" and when the switch is "off" means the ecu is controlling it the same as before

thats the best way todo it, I started off with a 3way switch with indercater LED's "on" "auto" and "off" but for some weird reason it made my VVT light burn out all the time. so a two way switch ya hook up so its "on" or "auto" (auto =ecu)

Website · by **Blkwinter** » Mon Jul 12, 2004 1:14 pm

Just a question about having VVT on constantly. Wouldnt this be worse performance? From what I understand if your your looking at a comparison graph of a dyno tune with VVT on constantly and a run with VVT off (coming on at 4500) the two lines will cut through each other at about 4500. Thats why VVT comes on at 4500 because you get more performance out of your engine when VVT is off up to about 4500rpm then VVT helps by changing the valve timing above this...

or am i just confused i dont know...

by **Chickenman** » Mon Jul 12, 2004 2:11 pm

Part of the reason it's not on all the time is for ease of starting and economy. I'm not sure about performance gains or losses. I would say that it would eat more fuel, it opens valves earlier than normal(very "loose" description of VVT, please don't hurt me) might be interesting on a turbo engine.

Anyone with the switch remember to do 2 dyno runs at the next session.

OMG so shiny! · by **Dell'Orto** » Mon Jul 12, 2004 2:18 pm

I'd say thats about right, as they run very lumpy when the VVT is switched off at idle.

by **AceSniper** » Mon Jul 12, 2004 3:13 pm

agh, VVT dosnt turn on at 4500rpm it turns on when the engine is upto temp and u put ur foot down (around 60% +)
so the dyno of vvt coming on at 4500 is quite random depends on the temp and were ya foot is.
where the switch helps is that xtra bit up high after the ecu turns it off at redline and when u take your foot off while changing gear ecu will turn off vvt.....

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