Thinking about buying a buggered 4agze

PHAT|GTZ · Post by **PHAT|GTZ** » Wed May 12, 2004 8:05 am

One of my mates buggered his 4agze, so he's got a new motor in and is selling the old motor.

Apparantly it was blowing heaps of smoke out before changing motors. Also said that the bearings needed to be changed, just want to know at wat sorta price im looking at to change the bearings and rings. I have a mate thats a mechanic so will give me a hand with changing them.

Also anything else that i should look out for?

ChaosAD · Post by **ChaosAD** » Fri May 14, 2004 6:58 pm

About the same price as buying another second hand gze (1500ish)

M R 2 Mk1 · Post by **M R 2 Mk1** » Fri May 14, 2004 7:07 pm

except unlike a second hand good 4agze you will know precisely what your engine has been through

PHAT|GTZ · Post by **PHAT|GTZ** » Sat May 15, 2004 1:29 pm

far out, does it cost $1200 for new rings and new bearings? pretty crazy!!

matt dunn · Post by **matt dunn** » Sat May 15, 2004 1:38 pm

PHAT|GTZ wrote:far out, does it cost $1200 for new rings and new bearings? pretty crazy!!

If you remove the rods fromit you will have to replace the rod bolts as well or eventually it will toss a rod as they stretch and come undone.
Have seen it happen on a few engines now.

PHAT|GTZ · Post by **PHAT|GTZ** » Sat May 15, 2004 1:50 pm

Well how much approx for the rings, bearings and any other NECESSARY parts that i would need, just so that i can get an idea of how much i will have to spend to get it to work properly again.

I know i gota get gaskets and stuff like that again...

mike86ze · Post by **mike86ze** » Sat May 15, 2004 3:00 pm

let your fingers do the walking man

johnsons piston rings would be a good start.

if you torque everything back up to spec it shouldn't matter if they have or haven't stretched.

suberimakuri · Post by **suberimakuri** » Sat May 15, 2004 8:09 pm

glen eden engine reconditioners.

ChaosAD · Post by **ChaosAD** » Sun May 16, 2004 5:39 pm

I think that was a full rebuild. hot tanked block/head, new gaskets/seals allround, new pistons/rings, new bearings, new bolts, reconned oil pump etc.
That was just the long-block though, not touching the s/c, plugs, oil change and all that.

Bazda · Post by **Bazda** » Sun May 16, 2004 5:50 pm

for rings and bearings is not that expensive, the expensive part is labour but yoru gonna do that yoru self.

i've changed my pistons once and used the same gudgen pins, then i changed two more and used the same gudgen pins and so far no probs....touchwood.

bridgeport · Post by **bridgeport** » Sun May 16, 2004 5:57 pm

yeah rebuild a shitter is better than buying one that ya dont know the condition of

Farmer_dave · Post by **Farmer_dave** » Sun May 16, 2004 8:08 pm

I am guessing that it all depends on how bad the damage is, ie: if the bores are damaged and or conrods and crankshaft then its gonna be big bucks if its just pistons rings bearings should be less than a grand.

RedMist · Post by **RedMist** » Sun May 16, 2004 8:22 pm

Rod bolts shouldn't ever be used again. When you torque a rod up the torque settings are for a new rod. Not one that's already stretched. Your asking for troubles using used ones.
I'd also expect to have the block line bored and honed again. Really not cheap at all... to do right.

Daniel.

matt dunn · Post by **matt dunn** » Sun May 16, 2004 8:41 pm

mike86ze wrote:let your fingers do the walking man

johnsons piston rings would be a good start.

if you torque everything back up to spec it shouldn't matter if they have or haven't stretched.

They are one time users. Once youv'e let then tension go they will keep stretching even after you've torqued them up. They will loosen off again in use and come undone!!

Twolitre · Post by **Twolitre** » Sun May 16, 2004 8:57 pm

matt dunn wrote:If you remove the rods fromit you will have to replace the rod bolts as well or eventually it will toss a rod as they stretch and come undone.
Have seen it happen on a few engines now.

Hi Matt does the same rule about big ends (conrod) bearings apply to main (crankshaft) bearings.
ie. will I have/should replace my mains with new/aftermarket bolts/studs?

Post by **Mr Revhead** » Mon May 17, 2004 9:30 am

i can help with parts to rebuild, email me a list of what you will need and what the engine is from (model and frame numbers if you can)
and ill do the best prices
warwick.parts@bowater.toyota.co.nz
cheers.

as far as the bolts go toyota use 'torque to yeild' bolts on things like head bolts, rod bolts and main caps. (but not for every engine) best to use new ones as they are a lot cheaper than a new engine!

mike86ze · Post by **mike86ze** » Mon May 17, 2004 4:11 pm

as far as the bolts go toyota use 'torque to yeild' bolts on things like head bolts, rod bolts and main caps. (but not for every engine) best to use new ones as they are a lot cheaper than a new engine!

That answers my next question as i assumed they wouldnt torque them to yeild
but if that is the case then once a bolt has been bought to yield then any more force (over and above) then it will plastically deform (stretch). And if you reuse a bolt and torque it up to the same place, above yeild, then the same conditions apply, so why is it going to stretch/creep/deform more the second time round?

i have reused them before on toyota engines and they havent dropped a rod. I know just cos i've gotten away with something doesn't make it a good idea though.

Post by **Mr Revhead** » Mon May 17, 2004 4:17 pm

you can reuse them..... theres specs in the manual to check them with... they stretch to a point then break or lose their strength making prone to failure. if you can replace them do so. only reuse if you can check the specs.
but at the end of the day i would replace them.... as a rule our workshop replaces them and only reuse if they cant get any new ones and then only if they meet specs

mike86ze · Post by **mike86ze** » Mon May 17, 2004 4:24 pm

fair enough. being high tensile they woulnt want to stretch to much no.