Replacing Water pump AE101

[G-shock]

Hi All,

My water pump on my silvertop seems to have decided to leak(from the lower hole) its in my 92 FX GT.
It looks to me a real pain to replace????
Toyota gave me a rough price of $120-140 for the pump and 3 - 4.5 hours labour at $78/hr plus $40 for coolant + GST......

thats around the $600-700 mark I'm guessing in the end

Is that what you'd expect to pay, is this because it looks like the cambelt would also have to come off at the same time when doing the water pump?

Has anyone got any links to a good "how to" replace the water pump in this silvertop engine so I can get a better idea whats involved?
Is it something you can do at home not having touched any of those bits before....??

Cheers
Gareth

[sergei]

it is about 2 to 5 hr job (depends how easy to get off the crank pulley/bolt), it is best to replace cambelt/tensioner crank/cam shaft seals, thermostat at the same time. Use genuine items (better quality/cheaper), e-mail to Mr Revhead for best deals.

[aesc]

Yeah those prices look about right if you went and paid retail at Toyota. My recommendation would be to email Mr Revhead a he works for Toyota and can give really good discount.

If your doing the water pump you are best to do the cambelt, cambelt tensioner, camshaft seals, oil pump seal etc etc while your at it as it is peace of mind doing it now rather than having to pay for all that labour if one of the above fails in the future. Might be worth considering doing the VVT pulley also although I think they are pricey

[sergei]

Oh yeah, it is possible to do it at home, but if you are doing it first time make sure you have a mate (mechanically minded) to give you a hand (and double check the timing etc.), also to have a set of decent tools is a must, and for fisrt time it would take twice as long as normally would take, 16valve cambelt job is similar so if you can get manual for it... (I have a 20v black top manual in PDF I can e-mail it to you, but the tensioner part is completely different)...

[G-shock]

Cheers,
Well kinda answers my question about it being a pain in the neck job..

So what sort of money you think it would be having the tensioner/cambelt/ seals and all that done at the same time?

the belt was done at 114k and its now at 175k, not sure if the tensioner was done then too.
I saw the cambelt has a reddish kind of dust on it, its all around the housing in there, not sure what its come from, everything under the cam cover seems to be covered in it, not sure if it could be a rust kinda dust...?

[Mr Revhead]

at those kays do the belt and pulley.
only cost about $80 more in parts but will save you a few hundred in labour as you will most likely not need to go there again for some time.

waterpump on a 20v isnt hard..... if your used to cars....

i also recomend replacing the rubber hose that comes out of the back of the water pump. it WILL burst/leak at some stage and is much easier to do with the pump off.


if you decide to do it yaself, make SURE the first thing you do is loosen the crank pulley bolt. you wil most likely need a pulley puller too.

[sergei]

to replace camblet etc while you doing water pump should only cost you extra in parts... reddish-brown dust probably is from cambelt itself, or if water pump leaks it is from rusty coolant getting under cambelt cover...

[sergei]

yeah, the crank pulley bolt sometimes is the hardest thing when you are doing cambelt/water pump... search the forum on bolt removal techniques, as I'm sure it has been covered here many times...

[G-shock]

Thanks Mr Revhead I've sent you an email to get some parts prices etc.

Hey Sergei I see your on the shore too, do u have a good Garage you use? I always got Techncar to do my work but the owner closed up shop!

He works at Forrest hill motors now I think so could try them, its hard to know what grages to trust sometimes.

Cheers
Gareth

[sergei]

I use my own garage . Don't really like when someone else works on my car, it is too personal for me . don't really know anyone ...many years ago I've done a cambelt on my AE101 at Petermark Automotive (Ashfield Rd)...

[sergei]

I'll explain briefly the order and what should be done, but from my opinion it i s better for you to get some one help you or just leave it with mechanics... To do it properly you will need the torque wrench and proper torque values for varuous specific bolts...
The reason why you have to undo the crankshaft pulley is that the water pump goes under the cam belt/cam belt tensioner, which is under the bottom plastic cover...Don't forget to disconnect ne negative terminal on the battery.

First you loosen the right front wheel nuts, jack the car up (don't forget to secure it properly), remove the wheel, remove the plastic guard from side/under the engine (if you still have it), then you can start on udnoing the crankshaft pulley, there are many ways of doing it, here is the link:
viewtopic.php?t=40975,
then you'll have to loosen the water pump pulley bolts, remove AC/PS belt and Alternator/Waterpump belt, the easiest way is to undo 14mm nut in centre of each tensioners, when you take off tensioners you'll be able to remove belts.
Pull out the crank shaft pulley, sometimes it is rusted tight so you'll have to use special puller ($40 from repco) or make up a plate (>5mm thick) with 2 holes in it (you'll see 2 threaded holes on the pulley) use 2 long bolts (M8 from memory), put a 17mm long socket or similar between plate and crankshaft, and screw in the bolts, you should get the idea what I'm talking about when you'll see the pulley.
Remove washer bottle, remove top cam belt cover (5mm hex/allan key), disconnect the ground cable on the cambelt side (just a connector). Water pump pulley should be a tight fit arround the water pump, you'll have to play it arround to get it out of there. Undo the top alternator bracket (don't forget to undo the dipstick from it).
Remove Sparkplugs cover/Sparkplugs (cover holes with rag so nothing will drop in there).
Bolt in the crank shaft pulley bolt (finger tight) and rotate the engine clockwise untill the marks on cam shaft pulleys will be facing eachother , while other set will be pointing against the marks on rocker cover (2 marks on each pulley, hard to miss), check mark on the crankshaft cambelt sproket (a small dent on the edge of the sproket pointing up/forward of the car direction ~45degrees against a small pin/dot on the oilpump housing), undo the cambelt tensioner, undo the waterpump bolts/nuts (~3x 12mm), remove clamp from behind the water pump, here is the tricky part, you'll probalby have to take waterpump apart on the engine (~5 bolts 10mm), then remove top stud (wich was holding alt. bracket).

To change the seal on the crank shaft you'll have to pull the cam belt sproket out (might be rusted in - trouble), you can pry out old seal using screwdriver (make sure you dont scratch anything, and replacement seal is right size), use some grease on the lip and outside of the seal and press it in evenly with your fingers (dont press on the lip!). To replace cam shaft seals you'll have to take off the rocker cover (3x 12mm nuts + couple of hoses + little bit of loom) you can use adjustable spanner to hold the camshaft (there is a special place in the middle for it) while undoing the center bolts.

Replace the seals same way as crankshaft seals. Reassemble the cam shaft in reverse order (don't forget to tighten well the center bolts). When you are installing the rocker cover make sure you are tightening the 3 bolts very evenly (they should not be very tight, infact they are relatively loose, almost "screwdriver" tight) otherwise you might crack the cover (not pleasant). Install water pump, use silicone sealant were necessary, replace O-ring on the block, don't forget to make it very clean before installing (you can replace that little bit of hose at the back as well).Make sure all marks where they should be, when you are installing new tensioner there is a trick to make camblet install very easy, install new tensioner, spring, finger tight the tensioner bolt use screwdriver /rag combiantion and lever it so the spring would be fully extended, tighten the bolt. Install new cambelt from crank shaft sproket first then to exhaust cam pulley then to intake cam, and atlast arround the tensioner (the trick is to slide it sideways on the teeth evenly), double check your marks (and tripple check), if marks ok, slightly undo the tensioner so it will take up the slack, turn the crankshaft ~10-15 degrees clockwise, tighten the tensioner bolt, do 2 full rotation of cranck shaft untill you realign the marks, check and double check marks (get some one to double check again), make sure everything is tight (water pump, tensioner etc.). Reassemble in reverse order. To tighten accesories belts, you'll have to undo bolts (about 5-10mm down) on the top of the tensioners...

This is all from memory, so there is a posibility that I missed something... Just use your common sense.

[sergei]

I forgot to mention the engine mount part:
You will need to take off the engine mount, there are 2x 14mm nuts can be accessed from under the car and a big 17mm bolt which goes in the center, you'll have to use jack to support/lower the engine, it is ok to drop it slowly because the engine will still be supported by other 3 mounts.. There will be a 10mm bolt holding the power steer hose, you will have to remove that bolt aswell, probably there will be no need to remove the power steering bottle, just move it so you can access 2x 12mm bolts holding the mount... When you jack up the engine make sure you use flat piece of wood under the sump, never jack up the engine by bare sump, it is really easy to bend it (and block oil pickup), also make sure to raise the engine just enough to bolt the engine mount back, other wise you will put strain on the sump and other mounts.

You can remove the engine mount when you are about to take off the pump and cam belt...

[soven]

since we are on the topic. what are some tell tale signs whena mechanical waterpump is about to die?

Whining sound?rattle?

[Crucible]

since we are on the topic. what are some tell tale signs whena mechanical waterpump is about to die?

Whining sound?rattle?

Although noisy bearings are a problem, they arent really a common fault.

leakage or corrosion around the bleed hole is usually a good sign that the pump is due for replacement.
If the pump is showing these signs and is located behind the timing covers or is cambelt driven then it pays to replace it same time as C/belt.........well I spose thats just common sense anyways

TNT