Toyspeed.org.nz Message Board

by **Zyros** » Thu Feb 16, 2006 8:53 pm

Hey all, after 3 weeks being off the road, and 2 mechanics.. my car still jerks and misses when warmed up..

Now, the first mechanic changed the fuel filter, and the HT leads.. which were supposenly the problem.. nop.. so i had to pay for those anyway.

Took it down to another mechanic, he tried doing what i did.. reading the error codes on the dash, but when i tried it just flashed check engine.. he got the same and replaced my dizzy (which we didnt have to pay for) and it worked..

Now, he's claiming the problem is the "low Rev Sensor" Between the Dizzy and the Computer..
He is charging by the hour.. and still unsure of the problem.. but says it the "low rev sensor"..

Is he just stealing my money, and dragging everything on a bit to get a few more hours worth of cash from me.. or is there actually such thing as this "low rev sensor"?

Toyspeed Profile - MrOizo · by **MrOizo** » Thu Feb 16, 2006 8:56 pm

sounds a little funky!

whats the engine - i think some of us on here might be able to help you - saving you a few $$$

oh ane where are you based?

by **2LTR Rona** » Thu Feb 16, 2006 9:03 pm

MrOizo wrote:sounds a little funky!

whats the engine - i think some of us on here might be able to help you - saving you a few $$$

oh ane where are you based?

Oizo - take a look at these two threads, may help with a little back ground info

thread 1
thread 2

Toyspeed Profile - MrOizo · by **MrOizo** » Thu Feb 16, 2006 9:19 pm

Well my bad then!

i'm hardly on here reading stuff so i barely know whats what..

having a look now

2LTR Rona wrote:
MrOizo wrote:sounds a little funky!

whats the engine - i think some of us on here might be able to help you - saving you a few $$$

oh ane where are you based?

Oizo - take a look at these two threads, may help with a little back ground info

thread 1
thread 2

by **Mr Revhead** » Thu Feb 16, 2006 9:40 pm

try taking it to toyota.
chances are they will have struck it before.

it could be one of many things, but with the proper diagnostics tools they should be able to sus it fastish

by **2LTR Rona** » Thu Feb 16, 2006 9:43 pm

MrOizo wrote:Well my bad then!

i'm hardly on here reading stuff so i barely know whats what..

having a look now

dont worry i had to scratch my head and think about it for a while before it clicked :lol:

by **matt dunn** » Thu Feb 16, 2006 10:37 pm

Zyros wrote:Now, he's claiming the problem is the "low Rev Sensor" Between the Dizzy and the Computer..
He is charging by the hour.. and still unsure of the problem.. but says it the "low rev sensor"..

Is he just stealing my money, and dragging everything on a bit to get a few more hours worth of cash from me.. or is there actually such thing as this "low rev sensor"?

Never heard of a low rev sensor,
but he may have the right part but the wrong name for it.

Zyros wrote:Took it down to another mechanic, he tried doing what i did.. reading the error codes on the dash, but when i tried it just flashed check engine.. he got the same and replaced my dizzy (which we didnt have to pay for) and it worked..

What do you mean by and it worked? What worked? The dist fixed the problems?

Matt

by **Zyros** » Thu Feb 16, 2006 10:50 pm

The new dizzy fixed the problem of me trying to diagnose my car issue by shorting my E and T pins.. As with my old Dizzy it just flashed check engine, but the new one flashed the error codes.

Yeah, I'll see what happends tommorow.. After school, if he still isnt certain what it is, im going to give him a boot.. as he has charged me 3 hours work for nothing..

The inlet cam is out by 5 de-gree's to the crank, Gordon came over the other day and helped me sort through a list of possible problems and he noticed this.. but the mechanics seem to ignore this.. and think im dumb because im a 16 year old kid and have pockets which they can steal from.

by **matt dunn** » Thu Feb 16, 2006 10:55 pm

Zyros wrote:The new dizzy fixed the problem of me trying to diagnose my car issue by shorting my E and T pins.. As with my old Dizzy it just flashed check engine, but the new one flashed the error codes.

Yeah, I'll see what happends tommorow.. After school, if he still isnt certain what it is, im going to give him a boot.. as he has charged me 3 hours work for nothing..

The inlet cam is out by 5 de-gree's to the crank, Gordon came over the other day and helped me sort through a list of possible problems and he noticed this.. but the mechanics seem to ignore this.. and think im dumb because im a 16 year old kid and have pockets which they can steal from.

Very unusual that the dist will cause codes not to work?

So what is the code number he is getting out now??

5 deg of cam timing will not cause your problem.

by **gordon77** » Fri Feb 17, 2006 7:26 am

when the engine is not moving and the inlet cam is at tdc (check this by lining the dot on the cam up with the oil filler hole thingie) the crank is at +5 degrees

this is the problem: when the engine is reving (like just before you engage the clutch to take off or ur just cruising down the road) the engine cuts out for a second (engine check light comes on) then starts again. this happens frequently (5 or 6 times) in the space of trying to take off and the engine finally stalls. the engine only looses 1000 - 1500 rpm between cutting out and starting again. this only happens when the car is warm.

the engine idles fine and free revs fine. even when warm

by **Zyros** » Fri Feb 17, 2006 8:09 am

^ What he said

Im going to ask for the error codes this afternoon, and if they do point to "a low rev sensor" then i guess he's alright.

by **Chrislost** » Fri Feb 17, 2006 10:39 am

my ae92 did that when i hit 5000 revs in 3rd or 4th, not sure what it was and it hasnt done it again since, someone said somthing about water in the fuel doing it to their mates car:/

by **Zyros** » Fri Feb 17, 2006 3:58 pm

The thing i hate about this issue is, that there could be so many things causing this issue eg - spark plugs, coil, dizzy, ecu, leads, split dizzy cap, timming, fuel pressure

by **fangsport** » Fri Feb 17, 2006 4:43 pm

Zyros wrote:The thing i hate about this issue is, that there could be so many things causing this issue eg - spark plugs, coil, dizzy, ecu, leads, split dizzy cap, timming, fuel pressure

exactly why you need to get the error codes, to pin point the problem.
there should be a list in FAQ.

by **Zyros** » Sat Feb 18, 2006 1:40 am

When i do, it just flashed check engine....

by **fangsport** » Sat Feb 18, 2006 7:15 am

Zyros wrote:When i do, it just flashed check engine....

which is supposed to do. how many flashes?

by **Zyros** » Sat Feb 18, 2006 9:56 am

It didnt stop, and the mechanic said that when it doees that it means theres nothing wrong with it..

So, either my mechanic is even more whack than i thought.. or, im doing it wrong / have the wrong concept..

I just short the E - T pin right..

by **deaf_rattle** » Sat Feb 18, 2006 11:18 am

te1 and e1 continuous flashing means no codes.
i wonder if you have some old earths that need replacing after reading what gordan said.

by **Zyros** » Sat Feb 18, 2006 6:08 pm

Well, the mechanic said that it was an electrical problem rather than mechanical.. so im guessing it could be the earths..

What are some electrical things i can check which may be causing the problem (Of the car missing when warmed up)??

by **gordon77** » Sun Feb 19, 2006 10:38 am

Zyros wrote: (Of the car missing when warmed up)??

to clear things up - ur engine is cutting out. its not missing... when u drive it it will feel like its missing coz of it cutting in and out.

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