AW won't go number 2!

[Pelo]

Ahh my car won't go! It is idling and missing at 600 rpm (just), breathing 5 in.Hg (vacuum) and has NO power! I have been hunting everywhere for a vacuum leak and can't find it anywhere. Any ideas?

4AZGE AW11 btw..

[Dell'Orto]

Compression tested it yet?

[Mr Revhead]

havnt washed it recently have you? rained?
could be anythign from water in the plug holes to a broken wire on a sensor....
net mechanicing is so hard

[Pelo]

Has compression fuel and spark... still hunting...
Normally breathes 20in.hg at idle
afm is connected ok, fault codes are just o2 sensor which
I already knew about.

[blackmk3]

ah just sell it and buy a supra then when it breaks you know you need a new head gasket!

certantly weird tho had a look at the car this morning everything seems fine but it just wont go....

[Diesel PWR]

Ahh my car won't go! It is idling and missing at 600 rpm (just), breathing 5 in.Hg (vacuum) and has NO power! I have been hunting everywhere for a vacuum leak and can't find it anywhere. Any ideas?

4AZGE AW11 btw..

check vacuum line to map sensor, with such low manifold vacuum it will be way over fueling.

[matt dunn]

cam timing jumped?

[Pelo]

Yeah Nick nice and cheap way of doing things huh! hehe

Checked hoses filter>afm>throttle>sc>ic>intake - ok
Checked compression, 120psi on all 4 cylinders - ok
checked timing & timing belt & cam timing - ok
Checked fuel - ok
Checked ignition - ok

Now I am suspecting either AFM or ECU, something electronic at least.
Are there any other vacuum valves or lines anyone recommends to check????? I am stumped and really can't afford to not have a car or pay someone to fix it!

[GT4 20]

If a vacuum hose is leaking then the engine is likely to be running at a much higher rpm than 'normal'.
Have you pulled the plugs out and checked that they aren't fouled etc? Also, check to ensure that there aren't any issues with the individual plug leads.
Gary

[pc]

check fuel supply to all four... i.e all injectors working?
If you turn it over with the spark plugs missing you should get a petrol smell in each cylinder.

[barryogen]

havnt washed it recently have you? rained?
could be anythign from water in the plug holes to a broken wire on a sensor....
net mechanicing is so hard

could be fixed with a tcp/ip/telnet/web interface on the cars computer... not likely that that would happen though.

ahhh, pipe dreams are so great.

actually, not so much of a pipe dream, I just setup(during the weekend) one of my mates Evos(PFC in it) with laptop and wireless(closed bridge) so that he can tune it from his couch so to speak... although it was more for accessing docs on his home PC while tuning it.

[Pelo]

Ahh the crank pulley key has disintegrated! I noticed that the pulley bolt was finger tight after cranking it over, so got the pulley and cover off, lo and behold, no pulley key!
No wonder my camblet has rust dust on it, the keyway slot was full of dust and the timing pulley was retarded at least 20 degrees or so. Hasn't jumped any teeth luckily so just needs realigning. I was going to do the cambelt & water pump this week anyway.
So - who knows how to fix the key problem??

[RS13]

The old B6T BFMR turbo 323s/Lasers used to shear keyways constantly, I bought mine like that and replaced the motor. If the key is missing, just tidy the keyway up, buy a new key block from Toyota, and whack it in. If the keyway itself has sheared, you could weld the key in (as I was recommended to by a Mazda mechanic! ), or weld up the keyway, then grab an angle grinder and reform a new keyway (what I also was recommended to do, lol), or if its' all bung, get a new crank!

[Mr Revhead]

put some metamucil in the fuel



i just reread the topic.....

[Crucible]

So - who knows how to fix the key problem??

If the keyway in the crank is flogged out you may be in a bit of trouble, You maybe able to weld it as a temp repair like RS13 suggests but if it goes again you will need to replace the crank. That little key is under a lot of stress because of the supercharger and are pretty much under engineered from factory in my opinion.

tnt

[matt dunn]

cam timing jumped?

checked timing & timing belt & cam timing - ok

Ahh the crank pulley key has disintegrated!
the timing pulley was retarded at least 20 degrees or so.

No-Turbo"]

If the keyway in the crank is flogged out you may be in a bit of trouble, You maybe able to weld it as a temp repair like RS13 suggests but if it goes again you will need to replace the crank. That little key is under a lot of stress because of the supercharger and are pretty much under engineered from factory in my opinion.

tnt

They key is not under as much stress as you think,
as long as the bolt is tight as the friction on the bolt to the crank pulley to the cam pulley to the crank takes most of the drive load.
the keyway is only really there for alignment.

Fit a new keyway and do the front pulley nut up tight.

[vvega]

keyways are a saftey device designed to shear at a set toruqe

bv

[Crucible]

keyway is only really there for alignment.

My mate had a blown small block chev (GM 6-71) that kept shearing keyways and ruining crank dampners, It even damaged a crank snout to the point he had to replace it. In the end he had another keyway cut opposite the original so it had two keyways which fixed the problem,
The crank bolt was torqued up to the same torque settings also. I realise theres a few varables of course but that would suggest there is indeed a fair amount of stress on a keyway.

I have been told by reconditioners that the key is only there for alignment also......but dunno? I suppose it depends on the application.

tnt

[vvega]

keyways are a saftey device designed to shear at a set toruqe

bv

dosent that explain why your shearing key's off nicely

[Crucible]

keyways are a saftey device designed to shear at a set toruqe

bv

dosent that explain why your shearing key's off nicely

yeah.....good point