Toyspeed.org.nz Message Board

by **solitaire** » Thu Jun 15, 2006 1:54 pm

Hey Guys,

Gen1 Sw20 Turbo.... Im seriously considering getting a cam grind, my question is... whats involved in swapping out the factory cams with a set of grinded factory cams.... is it a major like doing the cam belt?

cheers

by **Ako** » Thu Jun 15, 2006 2:30 pm

Just get a decent turbo + exhaust on it.

Same price, better results, less headaches.

Yes its like a cambelt (well it has to come off afterall to get the new cams in), but more work - and correct me if I'm wrong but you'll need to get things re-shimmed for the new cams?

by **solitaire** » Thu Jun 15, 2006 2:41 pm

Ako wrote:Just get a decent turbo + exhaust on it.

Same price, better results, less headaches.

Yes its like a cambelt (well it has to come off afterall to get the new cams in), but more work - and correct me if I'm wrong but you'll need to get things re-shimmed for the new cams?

Hey Mate

According to kelford cams they give you caps to go on the end of the valves and then its just plug and play... the cost is $550 which i thought was quite cheap in comparison to the cost of a ct20b etc...

You dont think its worth it? the kelford guy thought it could make around 8-10% more power...

Website · by Al » Thu Jun 15, 2006 6:02 pm

Get cams after you do exhaust and ct20b. I'd rather some new cams rather than regrinds, HKS 264s will run on stock ecu and will yield pretty good gains even without adj cam gears. Around $1000 for a pair of HKS cams.

ATSMATT wrote:I just put my 264s in last night and even with some mild cam tuning the car still idles good. As long as u turn up the idle a little to get rid of the surging caused by the stock IAC motor. Also my car is equipt with the ATS TD06 kit and a ATS fuel railwith stock injectors (stock fuel pressure) and a stock intercooler. I made 289 hp at 11.5 psi. Compared to 275 at 14 psi. My car still retained 11.5 AFR

by **solitaire** » Thu Jun 15, 2006 10:55 pm

ok... i cant do the ct20b or exhaust for a good year yet... budget constraints but i can slip a cam grind past the misus pretty easy.... you think its a waste of cash?

so its on the same level of work as a cam belt yeah?

OMG so shiny! · by **Dell'Orto** » Thu Jun 15, 2006 11:01 pm

To remove them yeah, but to put them back in is a bit different. You really need to degree them in for best results.

by **solitaire** » Thu Jun 15, 2006 11:56 pm

Mmm, Boost wrote:To remove them yeah, but to put them back in is a bit different. You really need to degree them in for best results.

Ah, fair play.. so its really better to get it done professionaly?

by **diss7** » Fri Jun 16, 2006 4:17 am

Can you not find a ct20b for under $500?

Man I sold a steel wheel'd ct20b with 68k's for like $350 about 3 years ago. :oops:

by **Adydas** » Fri Jun 16, 2006 8:08 am

ive got one for sale.. No waste gate actuator.. Im even easy on a payment plan..

by **solitaire** » Fri Jun 16, 2006 9:34 am

Adydas wrote:ive got one for sale.. No waste gate actuator.. Im even easy on a payment plan..

Really? How much are you looking at for it?

OMG so shiny! · by **Dell'Orto** » Fri Jun 16, 2006 11:41 am

diss1dent wrote:Can you not find a ct20b for under $500?

Man I sold a steel wheel'd ct20b with 68k's for like $350 about 3 years ago.

Ah what, I got shafted then :oops:

by **solitaire** » Fri Jun 16, 2006 5:18 pm

Adydas wrote:ive got one for sale.. No waste gate actuator.. Im even easy on a payment plan..

Um, Isnt an actuator kind of nessassary?

by **slighty_sykotic** » Wed Jun 21, 2006 9:17 pm

Yeah, if you want to run a internal wastegate. Ethier find a acutator, make one work from another turbo, or get a external wastegate ($$$$).

Or you could go the honda city way and free boost

:D:D

--Sykotic

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