manifold fabrication - what to use

[l1ttle_d3vil]

what would be some good advice for making a turbo manifold for vf10 onto 4age, rwd application.

* what would be an ideal "wall thickness" for the manifold?
* would would be the ideal "length" of each of the pipes from block to turbo flange? shorter the better? longer the better?
* whats the best type of material to make these from, just something to get the job done. don't want chrome/polished stuff that costs heaps.
* would I be able to cut some fwd extractors up and use parts of them for the manifold, or would the material not be right for a turbo manifold?

any other info anyone can add would be much appreciated! and before anyone says, i've already searched and read so these are questions I still need answers to.

cheers
-matt[/list]

[evil_si]

[list]
* what would be an ideal "wall thickness" for the manifold?
* would would be the ideal "length" of each of the pipes from block to turbo flange? shorter the better? longer the better?
* whats the best type of material to make these from, just something to get the job done. don't want chrome/polished stuff that costs heaps.
* would I be able to cut some fwd extractors up and use parts of them for the manifold, or would the material not be right for a turbo manifold?

*use scheldule 40 steam tube.

*not really an ideal length, just try to keep them all equal.

*mild steel

*cough* rough. get new flanges profile cut, much nicer to work with. you dont want to use thin walled tube for a turbo manifold they just crack and fall apart

[l1ttle_d3vil]

sweet. mig welds strong enough?

equal length as in what, within 0.5" or closer?

should anything be heatwrapped for a turbo application? there is wiring nearby, its been fine so far but with a turbo manifold there it'll probably sit a bit closer. do they tend to create much more heat than a N/A engine/manifold, or nothing noticable?

[KE20]

use steam pipe bends, they like 5mm thick wall , you can get from steel and tube, youll get heaps more heat than a n/a manifold. when you ringing the shit out of it, you can get the manifold glowing orange.

[DexGT]

Yea Schedule 40 weld bends , Mig welding is fine . The Mani I made for my road car has been in service for 80,000 Km now , still going fine .
You want atleast 12mm thick flanges so they don't pull to much with the welds

[Caveman]

yep scheldule bends from steel and tube for about $3 each. Buy the toyota exhaust gasket to cut the flange, 12mm is a good thickness, hate to be the people that use 8mm flanges, have a hell of a time with it warping.

I wouldnt mig if you have other options, mine is arc welded and has no problems.

Has anyone used scheldule 20 bends? I was going to make another one using 20 bends to save weight, or maybe just go stainless steel?

[l1ttle_d3vil]

I wouldnt mig if you have other options, mine is arc welded and has no problems.

i've got any options I want, tig, mig, arc, gas...
just some of them I could probably weld, some of them I would need someone else to do...so I would prefer to stick to mig so I don't have to wait until someone else can do it for me...but I suppose I could learn the others too

[QikStarlie]

mig will be fine, long is its a half decent one. crank the heat up and bevel the pipes

[evil_si]

i tig weld mine.
other wise would mig over arc.
if you are mig or arc prep the joins properly clean off the black paint and grind a bigger 'V'

[Caveman]

Yep everyone has opinions on weld types. At the end of the day the one you are most comfortable with will probably give the best job.

I can only arc weld well. Why do I prefer it? I find its easier to get good penetration and less prone fusion/oxidising.

Mig will be fine if you are good at it but I find its harder to get good penetration.

[crnkin]

I find its harder to get good penetration.

hehe[/b]

[KE20]

i find arc is best, espeacialy on thick steel stuff as you get max penotration, where mig ones i had used have cracked.