Rattling Silvertop.

[Punter]

Right so here's my problem.

I have a silvertop that's got a bit of a rattle/loud ticking on start up, only until the oil pressure comes up (about 1.5 secs) I'm guessing this is just the clearances'. Also it has developed a little of a thrust for oil (also smoke a little on hard downshifts).
Is this a bid deal? Will it cause huge problems?

Since I'm going to uni next year and will have no money (currently have a job) I'd like to get this fixed before I start uni, in case it turns into a major.

I have a spare 20v head in the garage that's in a bit of a state. It had a BHG and is all gummed up with old oil. but its complete and it works. The engine in the car is unknown KM's but seems to run very well and didn't rattle when I put it in. Should I get the spare head reco'd and swap them or should I fix the head that's in the car?

I don't really have any experience with opening motors up, fixing a BHG was the closest I've gone in the past. (keen to learn though) I just after the best and cheapest solution. I have another car to drive in the meantime so doing the work my self is no biggy.

So any advice or hints would be appreciated

And yea I've searched, can turn up anything much its mostly VVT problems (mine is fine)

[quicklvn]

For a minute there I thought you might have the same problem as me but mine's a continuous bloody rattling (only at idle) and it pisses me right off . I'm pretty sure mine is an engine mount of something similar but i'm not sure.

Sorry I don't have any ideas about yours though as it sounds like a different type of rattle.

[Distrb]

punter - Sounds like a rattle from the big end bearings. Other than new bearings or bottom end rebuild, maybe swap out for another good known bottom end?

quicklvn - goes away when driving? if so then sounds like vvt pulley rattle.

[Dirtbag]

Yea, ive got that same problem, pretty sure its vvt pulley as well.
http://forums.toyspeed.org.nz/viewtopic.php?t=30098

check that out, mighty useful

[Punter]

punter - Sounds like a rattle from the big end bearings. Other than new bearings or bottom end rebuild, maybe swap out for another good known bottom end?

Dam Any way to be sure?

So I guess I'll replace the bearing then

[Punter]

I've done a few track days in the car and its seemed to go strong the whole time.

But I suppose the constant corning of taupo may have starved it. This happened to anyone else?

[Distrb]

Dam Any way to be sure?

So I guess I'll replace the bearing then

Hard to be 100% sure without seeing/hearing in person, but from what you're describing it sounds like a similar problem to one i had in my '101 fx-gt.

(which eventually died by running a bearing on manfield )

I wouldnt take my internet diagnosis from your description as being gospel however..

[Punter]

Okay bit more info then, It won't do it unless its absolutly cold.
I drove it at lunch (after sitting for 5 hours) and it did it a little, and then when I went home (sitting for 3.5 hours) no noise at all, ran like new.

Got me worried now, I didn't really want to have to replace/recondition everything but i will if it needs it.

[Pelo]

My 4age has been doing the same thing just recently, will have a coarse rattle for maybe 1-2 seconds on startup and then it goes away completely. Does it more often when cold, less so when hot, and sometimes will not do it at all regardless of temperature. Maybe oil pump draining between runs? Got me worried too

[slighty_sykotic]

My 4age has been doing the same thing just recently, will have a coarse rattle for maybe 1-2 seconds on startup and then it goes away completely. Does it more often when cold, less so when hot, and sometimes will not do it at all regardless of temperature. Maybe oil pump draining between runs? Got me worried too

my guess ^^ oil pump draining out. Might be getting old/worn?

So its got no oil for a couple of seconds and snice its getting old, things are rtattly without oil.

--Sykotic

[Caveman]

If you want to do bottom end, big end bearings are $50 a set, main end are $50 a set and thrust are about $20. These are ACL and are avaliable from partmaster. The genuine toyota is $50 per bearing so $250 for a set. I have been to ACL office and had a lot chat with the guy, they seem pretty good, the only thing they dont have is manufacturing clearences. Bascially for them one bearing fits all. The are copper lead and dont require any run in time.

[Punter]

Is that retail for the toyota bearings or revhead prices?

Because $500+ for a full set of bearings seems a little steep.

[Mr Revhead]

yeah i can do genuines for some where around $190-200 iirc

acl are ok for a street driven runner.

[quicklvn]

quicklvn - goes away when driving? if so then sounds like vvt pulley rattle.

Yeh, I think it must be that then. It's only at idle and when under acceleration it goes away. Does this have any effect on power etc?

[quicklvn]

lol, bugger I screwed that up, (havn't used the quote function before)

I feel like a newbie now

[Punter]

yeah i can do genuines for some where around $190-200 iirc

acl are ok for a street driven runner.

I try to do 4-5 trackdays per year, are ACL still good enough?

hmmm, you can buy replacement engine thats guaranteed for that sort of money. So maybe I should just put $500 away and wait to see what happens.

[Jebus]

yeah i can do genuines for some where around $190-200 iirc

acl are ok for a street driven runner.

I try to do 4-5 trackdays per year, are ACL still good enough?

hmmm, you can buy replacement engine thats guaranteed for that sort of money. So maybe I should just put $500 away and wait to see what happens.

hahaha, thats like going to Mcdonalds and asking if you should have Burger King for lunch

[Mr Revhead]

with ACL you often need to do more machining to get the correct clearances. as mentioned above they do one size to cover the stock 3 sizes.

bearings make a big difference in engines. if you plan on running it really hard i would go better than standard ACL or toyota.

[Caveman]

If you want to do bottom end, big end bearings are $50 a set, main end are $50 a set and thrust are about $20. These are ACL and are avaliable from partmaster. The genuine toyota is $50 per bearing so $250 for a set. I have been to ACL office and had a lot chat with the guy, they seem pretty good, the only thing they dont have is manufacturing clearences. Bascially for them one bearing fits all. The are copper lead and dont require any run in time.

Sorry forgot to mention these are ACL race series bearings.

Best thing to do is go to part master and see the catalogue.

If genuines weren't so expensive id recommend them but for the price you might as well get ACL.

[Mr Revhead]

fair call.
but remember rrp doesnt apply to TSers