Guage installation Questions - Oil

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Guage installation Questions - Oil

Postby Adydas » Fri Dec 08, 2006 12:21 pm

Hi guys, just want to confirm for accuracy and not damaging things where the best place to install 2 sensors for guages on a gen 3 3s block / head.

theres a range of options but whats best for accuracy, and location?

Is the highlighted possiblitys for temp suitable?

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Is this fitting universal, And does it run via the stock ecu? ie No stock ecu NO light?
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Last edited by Adydas on Mon Dec 11, 2006 4:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Stealer Of Souls » Fri Dec 08, 2006 2:12 pm

okay... on a 4AGE but my mechanic friend told me...
The pressure gauge should go in place of the normal oil pressure switch, and that the temperature was in the sump, in such a way that it protruded as far into the sump as possible, and preferrable about a third of the way from the top of the oil level. The main things to watch for the temp was to ensure that it would be submerged in the oil properly at all times.
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Postby Adydas » Fri Dec 08, 2006 2:22 pm

Yeah i figred as much, Hrm..
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Postby Adydas » Fri Dec 08, 2006 4:17 pm

These are what i need to fit, im after some advice as to what holes to bung them in.
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Postby 99gtt » Fri Dec 08, 2006 6:02 pm

There is an adaptor you can buy . Remove your oil filter and place the adaptor plate which has all the appropriate holes allready tapped for your senders and replace oil filter.
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Postby postfach » Fri Dec 08, 2006 6:24 pm

are those from defi gauges? nice :)
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Postby Adydas » Fri Dec 08, 2006 6:29 pm

Correct, my 2nd and 3rd Defi Guage.

BF Control link II, yeah i dont want to use one of those pinapple things that go where the oil filter does, there would have to be factory avalible points i Just want to confirm what ones i need to use out of those avalible.
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Postby Akane » Fri Dec 08, 2006 6:40 pm

You have to get a Tee like wildfag did, if you had removed the factory sensor then you'll ALWAYS get that oil light. And that's the only place besides your oil turbo feed that will allow you to tap into anyawy.

System goes like pump -> filter -> turbo + top of engine head -> going down to the block crank etc all that shizzle -> back to sump.

Where the factory is, is the best place to tap it.

Tap the temp into side of sump, or onto a nut and use the probe instead of the sump plug (Dodgey).

OUR sumps are alloy, prepare to get shafted with welding a nut on.

Or you can always get those trademe china special oil cooler kits with the sandwitch plate that allows you to stick your diddle sensor into, not the best place to put it imo.
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Postby Adydas » Fri Dec 08, 2006 6:52 pm

Crap, a T? arse bags..

Ahh cripple sticks.. your joking maybe i can tap the temp into the oil feed haha, that oil light is soley a warning light yes? so to remove it wouldnt effect anything just make a light go on, A light that i could remove the bulb for?
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Postby Akane » Fri Dec 08, 2006 8:53 pm

I ain't kidding, that's the only outlet that I could think of that you can tap into, and you'll need to tee off it.

You don't put a condom on half-assed before you have sex coz you don't want STD to come and bite you in the arse 3 months down the track, so why do your gauge half assed just have it bite you in your car's ass later on? The oil light is a warning only but if I can keep it then I rather do that. Come on the tee is easy to do. You're almost there.

And you want the oil temp to be at the sump, after it's been heated and before it's cooled, you want to know the oil's hottest temperature, that's when it breaks down and turn to sh1t.
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Postby Adydas » Fri Dec 08, 2006 9:00 pm

i will t it, i agree i didnt buy a defi guage to half ass install it LOL.. i just want to know the best but not to hard place to install it..
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Postby matt dunn » Fri Dec 08, 2006 11:40 pm

Oil temp definatly needs to be in the sump, and well below the full line of the oil,

as remember the full line is without the enigine running.
with the engine running you can at times have 1/2 or a litre spread around in the engine so the level drops.
Does your sump have baffles in it?
I would go just under the lowest baffle if there is.
Have seen them tapped in thru the sump bung before too,
but depends on the angle of the bung as you do not want the sensor lower that the bottom of the sump or it risks getting wiped out by a speedbump or kerb.

Oil pressure and oil light should be together, and after the oil filter,
so you will see if there is a problem with flow through it.
I know of 2 engines that have died from lack of oil due to restrictions inline in filters and coolers, but were not picked up as the light and sensor were before the filter/cooler.

And I believe anyone who fits a gauge and disable's the oil light deseves run bearings for being so stupid.
A gauge is ok if you look at it, but unless you have a third eye to look at it constantly, you need a light that says "hey look at your gauge".
I run a 25psi sw on my car, but for a road car you will probably want lower as the light may flicker at idle when hot.
Factory lights are 7 or 8 psi.
At WOT by the time the 8psi light comes on the damage is done.

From memory the 3S have them in the head?
If you run a T piece may be best to run a hose from the std fitting out to the T and mount it as sometimes if you run a heavy sender on the end of a T the weight and vibration can cause the t to break off.

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Postby Adydas » Sat Dec 09, 2006 7:58 am

So there is no possible factory spot i could T into to fit temp it would have to be done via some drilling into the sump and welding a nut on etc?

Thats a pisser as i could have done that when it was off :/ the guage has an light that can come one for what its worth so if i replaced and didnt T that top part it wouldnt be totally bad.
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Postby deaf_rattle » Sat Dec 09, 2006 9:01 am

imo, by the time the oil light is on you are doing damage anyways.

But yes id leave it in there.
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Postby Adydas » Sun Dec 10, 2006 10:21 pm

err i may not have stock light anyway, being butcherd looms ecu swaps and engine swaps.
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Postby sergei » Sun Dec 10, 2006 10:24 pm

I was thinking about the "when oil pressure low it is too late" problem, instead having only low oil pressure light why not have low oil level in sump light ? Clealry most of the run bearings occure due to oil starvation....
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Postby Adydas » Sun Dec 10, 2006 10:31 pm

it actually seems like a better way to solve the issue dont it? perhaps you should submit a level guage idea to some top companys.

only problem is would require more than a DIY install would allmost justify takeing the sump pan right off.

only thing is ud have a guage jumping up and down from xmm to xmm of oil with every gearchange, rev change, etc
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Postby sergei » Sun Dec 10, 2006 10:38 pm

Well I think Hiaces (diesel) have it from factory... or atleast I saw some sort of contraption pluging into sump..
It should not fluctuate much if it designed properly, and normally the fload should be well submerged under oil...
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Postby Lloyd » Sun Dec 10, 2006 10:40 pm

Level gauges have been around for ages, lots of Hiaces have them. Even mid 90s Serenas do, duno how far back they go.

Some of the courier drivers use the level gauge as a service light. Once the oil level gets down that far its time for a service
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Postby Mr Revhead » Sun Dec 10, 2006 10:42 pm

i would laugh at the above
but its true 8O
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