by matt dunn » Fri Dec 08, 2006 11:40 pm
Oil temp definatly needs to be in the sump, and well below the full line of the oil,
as remember the full line is without the enigine running.
with the engine running you can at times have 1/2 or a litre spread around in the engine so the level drops.
Does your sump have baffles in it?
I would go just under the lowest baffle if there is.
Have seen them tapped in thru the sump bung before too,
but depends on the angle of the bung as you do not want the sensor lower that the bottom of the sump or it risks getting wiped out by a speedbump or kerb.
Oil pressure and oil light should be together, and after the oil filter,
so you will see if there is a problem with flow through it.
I know of 2 engines that have died from lack of oil due to restrictions inline in filters and coolers, but were not picked up as the light and sensor were before the filter/cooler.
And I believe anyone who fits a gauge and disable's the oil light deseves run bearings for being so stupid.
A gauge is ok if you look at it, but unless you have a third eye to look at it constantly, you need a light that says "hey look at your gauge".
I run a 25psi sw on my car, but for a road car you will probably want lower as the light may flicker at idle when hot.
Factory lights are 7 or 8 psi.
At WOT by the time the 8psi light comes on the damage is done.
From memory the 3S have them in the head?
If you run a T piece may be best to run a hose from the std fitting out to the T and mount it as sometimes if you run a heavy sender on the end of a T the weight and vibration can cause the t to break off.
Matt