Bang bang on a ceramic CT20B?

[RedMist]

Need to know if anti-lag will destroy the ST205 non WRC turbo.

Well its gotta sound like a rally car doesnt it?

[Dell'Orto]

Yes yes it will, and in fairly short order too.

[RedMist]

Figured

[Dell'Orto]

Make Toyota sponsor you a new WRC spec CT20B

[flygt4]

haha that would be cool to see. if you want antilag use something cheap and readily available like a tdo5

[RedMist]

I'll have to check my regs again in regards to turbo replacement. It might be that I have to retain the existing turbo, in which case I'll try to get in a WRC engine and tranny (need a spare). That way I have all the bang bang hardware and the water injection stuff as well. Unless I can find one thats been destroyed, such that I can steal all the goodies from.

[RedMist]

Make Toyota sponsor you a new WRC spec CT20B

WARRICK YOU LISTENING!

[Al]

You might want the TTE version for longevity. Ask them for some race fuel while you are at it.

It might be that I have to retain the existing turbo, in which case I'll try to get in a WRC engine and tranny (need a spare). That way I have all the bang bang hardware and the water injection stuff as well.

You might also find the factory antilag is inactive and missing components.

[RedMist]

You might want the TTE version for longevity. Ask them for some race fuel while you are at it.

It might be that I have to retain the existing turbo, in which case I'll try to get in a WRC engine and tranny (need a spare). That way I have all the bang bang hardware and the water injection stuff as well.

You might also find the factory antilag is inactive and missing components.

Some of the airfeed tubes are sealed. And the trigger is missing from the ECU. It shouldnt be that hard to re-enable. Considerably easier than re-creating the entire system.

[Mr Revhead]

bugger, steel WRC turbo went up over $500 in price a few months ago....

[RomanV]

bugger, steel WRC turbo went up over $500 in price a few months ago....

likely story.


Be nice... smartarses need discounts too

[Mr Revhead]

sad but true
i dont think i can even do them for $2k now

[Prymal]

Not only will you need to re enable all the goodness of valves and hoses in the bay , and exhaust manifold to suit ( theres a line of air hoses tapped in underneath it - you can see them on mine still ) ,

youll need the proper trd/tte ECU , not a standard group A one , and also , if you dont want to be chewing turbo's and destroying blocks , the proper WRC items of turbo and block - I had sorta looked into this for My Group A WRC and found it to be pointless.

AN Aftermarket ECU ( like say motec ) enable it if you set it up correctly but you still need the mechanical hardware to back it up to stop it destroying itself , and a budget to match

They didnt use the ct20B on the WRC car by memory but another rarer hybridisation

one of these turbo's was available in OZ recently - its still a CT variant but cannot recall the number


Your welcome to gaze over all the associated bits on my group A if you wish - everythings still intact and in factory condition bar my turbo

[RedMist]

Not only will you need to re enable all the goodness of valves and hoses in the bay , and exhaust manifold to suit ( theres a line of air hoses tapped in underneath it - you can see them on mine still ) ,

youll need the proper trd/tte ECU , not a standard group A one , and also , if you dont want to be chewing turbo's and destroying blocks , the proper WRC items of turbo and block - I had sorta looked into this for My Group A WRC and found it to be pointless.

AN Aftermarket ECU ( like say motec ) enable it if you set it up correctly but you still need the mechanical hardware to back it up to stop it destroying itself , and a budget to match

They didnt use the ct20B on the WRC car by memory but another rarer hybridisation

one of these turbo's was available in OZ recently - its still a CT variant but cannot recall the number


Your welcome to gaze over all the associated bits on my group A if you wish - everythings still intact and in factory condition bar my turbo

Thanks for the offer, however you're in Auckland, I'm in CHCH. In regards to aftermarket ECU, I'll either go Link G3 or if I need to go individual cyl trim for pots 2 and 3 I'll go the Plus G2

[Phothog]

sad but true
i dont think i can even do them for $2k now

i just sold the only captive Steel CT20b in NZ

But we do have New Steel Shaft & wheel assemblies in stock, so we can rebuild yours.. the wheels are actulaly not badly priced...

PM or E-Mail me for prices...
____
Chris

[mister2]

What type of antilag are you talking? Not all are bang bang... Link Group A style isn't either, more of a whoooooooooooooshpshpshpshpshsphspshpshsh And that won't need all the valves and plumbing to the exhaust manifold either, just a decent sized throttle bypass.

Any antilag sustained will kill turbos, it is just the heat side of things that does it.

Cheers

Nick

[Phothog]

They didnt use the ct20B on the WRC car by memory but another rarer hybridisation
one of these turbo's was available in OZ recently - its still a CT variant but cannot recall the number

i nicked these off a auction on Ebay... a Brand new WRC Turbo

[RedMist]

What type of antilag are you talking? Not all are bang bang... Link Group A style isn't either, more of a whoooooooooooooshpshpshpshpshsphspshpshsh And that won't need all the valves and plumbing to the exhaust manifold either, just a decent sized throttle bypass.

Any antilag sustained will kill turbos, it is just the heat side of things that does it.

Cheers

Nick

Nick, thanks for that. Its just a matter of keeping the thing spooled. Some of the 185 rally cars in CHCH with 205 running gear have had greater sucess going back to a CT26 because of spooling issues.
I think I have managed to get hold of an exhaust manifold from a 205 WRC and the associated bang bang kit. I'm currently tossing up wether or not to run rich throughout the map with a LEM 3 or spend the little bit extra and go Plus G2 and wet up (with individual cyl trim)2 and 3 to stop ring landing damage. This will also determine which mode of antilag I go for, Mode 1 in the G3 or Mode 1 or 2 with the G2 plus. Whichever route I go for I had hoped that I could keep exhaust temps down a little with the air bypass.
As you can see..... I need to dedicate myself to researching a bit more, especially on the turbo side as I've only just started down the compressed racing route.

[mister2]

The only way you will be able to tell if cyl 2&3 are lean (er than 1&4) is with individual EGT probes. I would cross that bridge when you come to it. To be honest leaning out a little isn't what breaks ring lands, that is detonation - but anyway if you really got keen and found that there was bad cylinder distribution you could always use the two drives of the LEM and trim them out.

How does the WRC antilag gear work? Is there much point in using that style of system? Is it even compatible with the Link stuff? The Link antilag works on the principle of diverting more air through the motor (either through throttle stop [Group N] or bypass valve [Group A]) and retarding timing, not injecting air and fuel into the exhaust manifold like it sounds the WRC stuff does.

Cheers

Nick

[Akane]

i nicked these off a auction on Ebay... a Brand new WRC Turbo

Does it come with the dodgey restrictor?