opinions on toasted clutch/pressure plate (with pics)

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opinions on toasted clutch/pressure plate (with pics)

Postby flygt4 » Tue Dec 26, 2006 4:24 pm

pulled my gearbox today to do some routine maintenance,knew i needed to put in a new clutch, and replace engine mounts, driveshaft hanger etc.
the clutch was better than i expected , had bugger all meat left, probly ~ 15% , thrust bearing was well rooted and the pressure plate had some slightly interesting glazing on it. flywheel apears to be in pretty good nick tho. just after some opinions from people who have pulled/seen a few rooted clutchs etc as to whether this glazing is normal, what may have caused it etc.

the offending PP , note burnt spots @ 2 and 8 o clock, appears to be a standard 4agze plate
Image

closeup
Image

turns out i had an exedy disc in there
Image

wasnt quite to the rivets :lol:
Image


im sure you might have seen worse, but any thoughts on what may have caused the burnt spots?
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Postby Bazda » Tue Dec 26, 2006 6:00 pm

who cares, just get a 4 puk :)

and im sure the exedy plate is standard.... cos the last 2 standard gtz's i've pulled apart had exedy cluthes in them.
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Postby Crucible » Tue Dec 26, 2006 6:09 pm

The black marks are just from slippage, The pressure plate doesnt look too bad actually.

BNT do exedy and will machine the flywheel free if you grab a kit off them.
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Postby flygt4 » Tue Dec 26, 2006 6:09 pm

haha im looking at getting the same as brendon anyway, think he has a 3 or 4 puk . i got a growing list of stuff to replace this time round :lol:
im just curious as to why its toasted as it is, i guess 8500rpm burnouts didnt help it :wink:

gotta put in solid mounts, replace driveshaft hanger bearing, get new synchros in the box and get the diff reconned if possible, along with with a new clutch kit. hopeefully ill have it done by february, its just $$ alowing and getting the parts in my hands.

oh trueno turbo, while ur reading it, you mentioned my driveshaft hanger to me ages agoduring a wof, i need to find a replacement, do silvertops use one standard or is it likely i have a gze one? if they both use em do you know whether they are the same?
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Postby Bazda » Tue Dec 26, 2006 6:17 pm

flygt4 wrote:haha im looking at getting the same as brendon anyway, think he has a 3 or 4 puk . i got a growing list of stuff to replace this time round :lol:
im just curious as to why its toasted as it is, i guess 8500rpm burnouts didnt help it :wink:

gotta put in solid mounts, replace driveshaft hanger bearing, get new synchros in the box and get the diff reconned if possible, along with with a new clutch kit. hopeefully ill have it done by february, its just $$ alowing and getting the parts in my hands.

oh trueno turbo, while ur reading it, you mentioned my driveshaft hanger to me ages agoduring a wof, i need to find a replacement, do silvertops use one standard or is it likely i have a gze one? if they both use em do you know whether they are the same?


i can get solid urethane mounts done for $15 each
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Postby Crucible » Tue Dec 26, 2006 6:44 pm

flygt4 wrote: oh trueno turbo, while ur reading it, you mentioned my driveshaft hanger to me ages agoduring a wof, i need to find a replacement, do silvertops use one standard or is it likely i have a gze one? if they both use em do you know whether they are the same?


sh*t dude I couldnt honestly tell you for certain, I would take some measurements off the old bearing and call toyota to match it up, they would be able to tell you also what you have or if they are the same by part number :D
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Postby no_8wire » Tue Dec 26, 2006 6:49 pm

Bazda wrote:
flygt4 wrote:...


i can get solid urethane mounts done for $15 each

Whats the advantage/disadvantage to going solid urethane?
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Postby Crucible » Tue Dec 26, 2006 6:54 pm

Bazda wrote:
i can get solid urethane mounts done for $15 each


Could I get a couple done Barry? That would mean Id have to send my ones up to get packed right??

no_8wire wrote: Whats the advantage/disadvantage to going solid urethane?


less stress on int/piping and exhaust flexis also gets power to the ground a bit quicker
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Postby Bazda » Tue Dec 26, 2006 7:28 pm

if anyone wants it done. give me a pm and i'l giv u my address, and when i get back to work on the 8th i can drop them into the guy cos its on the way.
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Postby Distrb » Tue Dec 26, 2006 8:02 pm

Bazda wrote:
flygt4 wrote:gotta put in solid mounts


i can get solid urethane mounts done for $15 each


Do it jeremy!
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Postby flygt4 » Tue Dec 26, 2006 8:24 pm

Distrb wrote:
Bazda wrote:
flygt4 wrote:gotta put in solid mounts


i can get solid urethane mounts done for $15 each


Do it jeremy!


already arranged :wink: since ive got 3 of them off anyway
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Postby Dell'Orto » Tue Dec 26, 2006 9:06 pm

True-No-Turbo wrote:
no_8wire wrote: Whats the advantage/disadvantage to going solid urethane?


less stress on int/piping and exhaust flexis also gets power to the ground a bit quicker


Disadvantage is a bit more vibration.
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Postby no_8wire » Tue Dec 26, 2006 9:45 pm

well if your running a puk clutch I dont thing you care about drivability


:lol:
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Postby Caveman » Tue Dec 26, 2006 10:09 pm

that looks pretty normal for a pp

clutches usually have around 8mm of meat on them. how much does that one have? thats basically the entire plate width.

4 puk ceramic are pretty good but if your serious get the exedy race 3 puk. made in japan and designed for track.

solid mount $15 8O might be in touch, ill see when I get a new car to replace the 92 :cry:
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Postby flygt4 » Tue Dec 26, 2006 10:18 pm

3 puk just might be a bit too much. i still drive the car to and from the track , and it does the occasional milk run :lol:
id still like it to be the fuse in the driveline too.

from the sounds of it, a 4 puk with a sprung centre would be the way to go. combined with approx 2000lb clamping pressure it should hold the power ok.

there was probably 2mm left each side of the plate on that clutch. take up had noticeably moved out to the end of the clutch throw after the last 2 drag meets anyway.

i found some special touches during the removal, such as the gearbox bung being welded in so it was impossible to drain the box in the car :oops: and crossthreaded bolts that had to have their heads grinded off to be removed :?
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Postby no_8wire » Tue Dec 26, 2006 10:20 pm

flygt4 wrote:...gearbox bung being welded in

wth?

Why would some one do that?

:lol:
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Postby flygt4 » Tue Dec 26, 2006 10:21 pm

i cant for the life of me figure it out, im going to have to grind the welds off and tap a new thread into it :?
i can only imagine it was done as a temporary bodgeup to stop a leak that was never fully sorted.
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Postby Caveman » Tue Dec 26, 2006 10:24 pm

man sounds like the owner before you deserves the bash :lol:

4 puk exedy are pretty good. I run one with a 1800lb pp and its only a little harder on the pedal but shudders and bites like hell. need to completely change driving style. cost me $550 from part master.

make sure you use dry moly lube on the spline, fork, etc. dont use wet lube as it'll go crap as the clutch wears.

and ofcourse dont get any on the clutch contact area, clutch material, etc
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Postby Bazda » Tue Dec 26, 2006 10:29 pm

3 puk plates can bend using high lbs pressure plates and u cant change gear as fast, that what auto clutch recons.

4 puk soild centre, it was mint , easy to drive, unlike my new twin plate lol
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Postby bluemaumau » Tue Dec 26, 2006 10:42 pm

barry i will be contact you in the new year. re mounts.
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