how does oil changes work?

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how does oil changes work?

Postby agressor » Tue Feb 13, 2007 4:10 pm

i never done it before i get it serviced and was wondering i checked and it seems to be the engine oil is low. do i have to empty out all the oil (how?) and then pour in new oil? or just pour the oil in with whats left of the oil even if different type????

what is good oil for toyota celica
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Postby quicklvn » Tue Feb 13, 2007 4:46 pm

Lol :lol:

I'll cum over and do it with you in the weekend if you want.

Give me a text
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Postby strx7 » Tue Feb 13, 2007 4:47 pm

its just like changing gears but you dont use the clutch.....



On a more serious note, if you have to ask, requiring that much detail, i'd suggest you leave it to someone who knows what they are doing. Or get someone to do it and watch and learn.
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Postby mr pad » Tue Feb 13, 2007 5:14 pm

1. Warm engine up
2. Take off sump cover (if there is one)
3. Remove dip stick and oil filler cap
4. Remove sump bolt (make sure its not the auto trans bolt)
5. Let oil drain
6. Replace the $&#$% oil filter, watch out for letting it leak onto things (like starter motors in fto's... doh)
7. Replace oil filter making sure there is a thin layer of new oil on the filter gasket. Filter should make contact, then another 3/4 turn or till its tightish
8. Replace sump bolt if oil has finished draining.
9. Fill engine with oil through filler cap, pour around 3 ltrs in and then keep checking on the dip stick making sure you dont overfill.
10. Start engine for 10seconds
11. Wait 10mins and check oil level and check for leaks
12. Piss off I can't believe I just wrote that shit, must be in a good mood.
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Postby agressor » Tue Feb 13, 2007 5:32 pm

quicklvn wrote:Lol :lol:

I'll cum over and do it with you in the weekend if you want.

Give me a text
who are you
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Postby agressor » Tue Feb 13, 2007 5:33 pm

mr pad wrote:1. Warm engine up
2. Take off sump cover (if there is one)
3. Remove dip stick and oil filler cap
4. Remove sump bolt (make sure its not the auto trans bolt)
5. Let oil drain
6. Replace the $&#$% oil filter, watch out for letting it leak onto things (like starter motors in fto's... doh)
7. Replace oil filter making sure there is a thin layer of new oil on the filter gasket. Filter should make contact, then another 3/4 turn or till its tightish
8. Replace sump bolt if oil has finished draining.
9. Fill engine with oil through filler cap, pour around 3 ltrs in and then keep checking on the dip stick making sure you dont overfill.
10. Start engine for 10seconds
11. Wait 10mins and check oil level and check for leaks
12. Piss off I can't believe I just wrote that sh*t, must be in a good mood.
ok more than i thought. thanks
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Postby soven » Tue Feb 13, 2007 5:47 pm

Just so you know. It is not hard for an engine to die when you dont do oil changes. When it dies... you will be faced with a repair bill(thousands) where you would wish that you had just taken the car to a mechanic or learned how to do an oil change. Friendly reminder here =) . Take a look at your car manual if it came with one.
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Postby Ae92typeX » Tue Feb 13, 2007 7:41 pm

mr pad wrote:1. Warm engine up
2. Take off sump cover (if there is one)
3. Remove dip stick and oil filler cap
4. Remove sump bolt (make sure its not the auto trans bolt)
5. Let oil drain
6. Replace the $&#$% oil filter, watch out for letting it leak onto things (like starter motors in fto's... doh)
7. Replace oil filter making sure there is a thin layer of new oil on the filter gasket. Filter should make contact, then another 3/4 turn or till its tightish
8. Replace sump bolt if oil has finished draining.
9. Fill engine with oil through filler cap, pour around 3 ltrs in and then keep checking on the dip stick making sure you dont overfill.
10. Start engine for 10seconds
11. Wait 10mins and check oil level and check for leaks
12. Piss off I can't believe I just wrote that sh*t, must be in a good mood.


as simple as many would find the answer to this, its genuinly a good answer post for beginners. have to start somewhere!

although an oil change really is recommended, if nothing else make sure you keep it topped up at the very least.
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Postby mr pad » Tue Feb 13, 2007 7:51 pm

oil is the blood of your ride. dont let your car get aids :cry:
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Re: how does oil changes work?

Postby matt dunn » Tue Feb 13, 2007 7:55 pm

mr pad wrote:1. Warm engine up
2. Take off sump cover (if there is one)
3. Remove dip stick and oil filler cap
4. Remove sump bolt (make sure its not the auto trans bolt)
5. Let oil drain
6. Replace the $&#$% oil filter, watch out for letting it leak onto things (like starter motors in fto's... doh)
7. Replace oil filter making sure there is a thin layer of new oil on the filter gasket. Filter should make contact, then another 3/4 turn or till its tightish
8. Replace sump bolt if oil has finished draining.
9. Fill engine with oil through filler cap, pour around 3 ltrs in and then keep checking on the dip stick making sure you dont overfill.
10. Start engine for 10seconds
11. Wait 10mins and check oil level and check for leaks
12. Piss off I can't believe I just wrote that sh*t, must be in a good mood.



Good answer but from what I understand your answer is completly WRONG!!!

The question was,
agressor wrote:
the engine oil is low. do i have to empty out all the oil and then pour in new oil?

or just pour the oil in with whats left of the oil



you dont do that to top up the oil becasue it is low,

you just add in the required amount of oil to fill it back up to the full line by adding it ontop of the remains of the old oil.


Matt
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Postby thaphatty » Tue Feb 13, 2007 8:18 pm

mr pad wrote:6. Replace the $&#$% oil filter, watch out for letting it leak onto things (like starter motors in fto's... doh)


Late model FTO's have a small "slide" that stops the oil from dripping onto the starter motors :)
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Postby quicklvn » Tue Feb 13, 2007 8:44 pm

agressor wrote:
quicklvn wrote:Lol :lol:

I'll cum over and do it with you in the weekend if you want.

Give me a text
who are you


Lol it's Jeremy

your cars probably due for an oil change anyway so ill come over and do it in the weekend. 8)
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Postby RedMist » Tue Feb 13, 2007 9:34 pm

mr pad wrote:1. Warm engine up
2. Take off sump cover (if there is one)
3. Remove dip stick and oil filler cap
4. Remove sump bolt (make sure its not the auto trans bolt)
5. Let oil drain
6. Replace the $&#$% oil filter, watch out for letting it leak onto things (like starter motors in fto's... doh)
7. Replace oil filter making sure there is a thin layer of new oil on the filter gasket. Filter should make contact, then another 3/4 turn or till its tightish
8. Replace sump bolt if oil has finished draining.
9. Fill engine with oil through filler cap, pour around 3 ltrs in and then keep checking on the dip stick making sure you dont overfill.
10. Start engine for 10seconds
11. Wait 10mins and check oil level and check for leaks
12. Piss off I can't believe I just wrote that sh*t, must be in a good mood.


Nooooooooo the world has gone too PC. MRPAD has answered a simple question accurately without sarcasm. The world as I know it has ended. Prozac wins.
The answer is Helmholtz!

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Postby Adamal » Wed Feb 14, 2007 12:30 am

Mr Pad. You left out step 1.5. Turn the engine off!
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Postby 85AW20v » Wed Feb 14, 2007 9:12 am

Also make sure that the rubber gasket from the old filter is not still sitting against the filter housing. The new filter will feel like it seals but oil will blow out between the two of them.
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Postby Mr Revhead » Wed Feb 14, 2007 9:57 am

yeah, and make a motherf88ker of a mess!!! :oops:
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Postby mr pad » Wed Feb 14, 2007 10:16 am

c**ts. i should learn to read
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Postby scope » Wed Feb 14, 2007 10:34 am

i've been told both to change oil while the car's warm and the car's cold. what one is it?
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Postby 2LTR Rona » Wed Feb 14, 2007 10:49 am

scope wrote:i've been told both to change oil while the car's warm and the car's cold. what one is it?


warm...always warm...doesnt hurt to throw an engine flush in every now & then either.

By getting it warm & circulating you are thinning the oil down, therefore making it easier for the oil to drain from areas with very small tolerance gaps, if it was cold you would still get most of it but will end up leaving the old stuff in those gaps.
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Postby Ae92typeX » Wed Feb 14, 2007 11:50 am

but be careful with engine flushes if higher mileage or a gungy internals engine - can do more damage then good.i.e. bits become disloged and block passageways.
I used to use flushes, but in general now days perfer to schedule more regular oil changes, this tends to clean and keep engine clean also.
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