Caldina GT-T modifying

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Caldina GT-T modifying

Postby Heapho » Sat Apr 07, 2007 6:17 pm

Hey there everyone I just got a GT-T and want to know what you need to do to them to get them to go hard it's not a fast as I would like it to be ! also whats the deal with putting a BOV on them as the factory one is plumbed back into the air box ? Also with putting a POD filter on them, what do you need to do about the air flow sensor ? as they don't run air flow meters ? I was thinking of doing a waste gate and FMIC does this make much difference ? Anybody who has done this to a 3SGTE can you help cheers
Last edited by Heapho on Mon Apr 09, 2007 4:11 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Postby flygt4 » Sat Apr 07, 2007 6:29 pm

use the search function, as we get this exact same question about once every 2 months.


some good keywords to start you off , toyota caldina gtt, 3sgte , warped manifold :wink:

dont bother with a wastegate unless you're changing the entire turbo/manifold and spending the money to run it. they are sensitive to budget modification as they have high 9:1 compression and dont like poor fuel or too high boost.

be happy with an exhaust, intake, and maybe a fmic. thats about the limit of what you can do powerwise before it gets dodgy or expensive. nothing to stop you sorting the handling tho.
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Postby Heapho » Sat Apr 07, 2007 10:42 pm

O ok thanks can any one with a GT-T tell me what they did with putting on a BOV and POD ? cheers any help will be much appreciated
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Postby sergei » Sat Apr 07, 2007 10:53 pm

Don't go for a "pod", if you want a performance filter use a K&N replacement panel, and maybe rethink where the filter is getting air from (make surer it is high enough not to destroy the engine in wet season).
Factory BOV does not work as normal BOV, it doubles up as bypass valve so replacing that will lead to not very good results.
Wastegates do not increase horsepower - they are there to limit the boost - indirectly to limit the horsepower.
There is no need for external unless you are having boost spikes issues (if you do invest in better boost controller first). Regarding boost controller - there is no point of raising the boost on those as the current level is very close to limit of compression ratio and octane combination.
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Postby AJz » Sun Apr 08, 2007 2:00 am

Heapho wrote:O ok thanks can any one with a GT-T tell me what they did with putting on a BOV and POD ? cheers any help will be much appreciated


BOV was put where factory is, between TB and intercooler.
Pod sits underneather battery, facing road, is covered by the underbody plastic but still has plenty of breathing space, works well. Ill get pic if you want ???
I had vtax :(
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Postby Heapho » Sun Apr 08, 2007 7:46 am

Hey there thanks for the posts I know how to fit POD filter and BOV's its just I have never done it to a Toyota before I had a WRX before the GT-T and that was easy to change and modify, It sounds like with these you cant do much to them or you will blow it up if you do it the cheap way but I'm not going to !

I'm new to the Toyota scene so I don't know much about the engines any help will be much appreciated cheers.

I want to know to you need to bung off where the factory BOV bolts onto the air box ? And does it matter If you take the two hose's off the vacuum line and just use one to use the BOV ?

Also what do you do If you put a POD filter on a GT-T, what do you do with the air flow sensor thats plugged into the top of the air box ?
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Postby Heapho » Sun Apr 08, 2007 7:54 am

Hey AJz Yea can you send me a pic please ? Thomas@rhm.co.nz


cheers
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Postby Heapho » Sun Apr 08, 2007 11:58 am

bump can any one with knowledge about modifying caldinas answer my q's in bold please thanks
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Postby slighty_sykotic » Sun Apr 08, 2007 12:04 pm

Heapho wrote:I want to know to you need to bung off where the factory BOV bolts onto the air box ? And does it matter If you take the two hose's off the vacuum line and just use one to use the BOV ?

Also what do you do If you put a POD filter on a GT-T, what do you do with the air flow sensor thats plugged into the top of the air box ?




That sensor in the air box is a temp sensor. You need to plumb it into the piping somewhere.


BUT LISTEN. If you want performace, don't get a pod filter. Read what sergei said. Pods (esp cheap ones which is the only type I seem to ethier see) cause problems. If you have to do a pod ow, then you better make sure its shielded from water off the road and isnt sucking hot engine air.


And of course you need to bung up the hole from the bov. If its open to the air its going to suck air in around the filter isnt it? WRX's suck air just the same...


And lastly, dude, its sunday. Don't bump your post. People are hungover and having lives. Plus its a holiday. If you want information NOW, then SEARCH.

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Postby slighty_sykotic » Sun Apr 08, 2007 12:07 pm

And in regrads to the vaccuum pipes, i would say no, as sergei said above, the bov has another function. One will do something different.


So again i ask you, why are you replacing it. You won't get ANY more performance. If you want a skank whistle, go buy a electric one from TM.

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Postby Lloyd » Sun Apr 08, 2007 12:13 pm

Can use one hose, no issues with that. Block up the hole to the airbox as stated otherwise you'll just end up sucking in unfiltered air.
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Postby Mr Revhead » Sun Apr 08, 2007 12:28 pm

basicly:

what ypu are proposing to do will not make an improvment to a GT-T
it will make a decrease in performance.

listen to whats been said.

K&N panel, ducting, leave stock valve in there
changine a dump valve is NOT a performance modifications, its wank factor.

if you really want to wake one up u need to look at replacing the manifold/turbo and go aftermarket ECU, yours auto or manual?
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Postby solitaire » Sun Apr 08, 2007 1:42 pm

Dude, sell the caldina and buy another legacy...

the caldina is not going to give you what your after in a car... Its crap at making pfssst noises and doesnt go barp barp barp barp and dont even get me started on how little attention you get from dem skanky hoes... im pretty sure you cant get any giant tachos for them either.

The legacy is the way to go fo' sho'

If seen some very respectable dyno plots from caldina's, but when it comes to attracting idiots at the lights the subaru wins every time.
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Postby Heapho » Sun Apr 08, 2007 1:47 pm

Its a manual ! I know that a BOV and POD isn't going to give it more power I just have a BOV lying round at home and was going to put it on I just wanted to know a few things as I haven't owned a Toyota before Ive had Silvia's and a WRX so I don't know a lot about the Toyota 3S-GTE ? I'm not trying to prove people wrong I'm just trying to find out whats best to do cheers I think ill flag the Pod idea
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Postby solitaire » Sun Apr 08, 2007 1:54 pm

If you looking to get the best bang for buck improvements you could try getting in touch with driven performance... they built up a very quick caldina if i remember correctly, im sure they could share their experience with you, and because your with toyspeed if you wanted to buy anything you get a better deal than you would of just walking in off the street.
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Postby fivebob » Sun Apr 08, 2007 4:34 pm

Ok, first you need to understand what will happen if you do it wrong so read http://forums.toyspeed.org.nz/viewtopic.php?t=40051

Then you need a basic understanding of the Stock BOV and why it's the best option unless you're prepared tp spend big $$$ on a decent aftermarket one.http://forums.toyspeed.org.nz/viewtopic.php?t=32156

And finally you need to check your bank balance and see if it will cover the cost of fitting an ECU to your car. This is the first step in ST215 modification, if you're after more than wank factor "Phssst" noises.

Ok that's overstating it a bit, you can fit a pod and boost controller, but the boost should be kept at stock levels (especially in summer), and the pod won't give you anything much, though you can get those "Phssst" noises from the stock BOV that way ;)

FWIW I removed an upgraded turbo, piggyback ECU and dropped the boost to stock levels on my Caldina after blowing one engine (cracked ringlands on #2 piston). Lost about 40HP, but I won't consider trying to extract more HP until I have a decent Aftermarket ECU that I can tune myself, and probably an upgrade to the stock I/C, though that's not as bad as people make out.
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Postby solitaire » Sun Apr 08, 2007 4:41 pm

My SW20 had a pod filter on it when i bought it, and when the bov/wastegate/whatever goes off its sounds like the car is farting... you get used to it :lol:
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Postby Heapho » Sun Apr 08, 2007 5:00 pm

Ive got a GFB MACH 1 Bov is a fairly decent one its not a cheap trademe copy
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Postby slighty_sykotic » Sun Apr 08, 2007 5:04 pm

Heapho wrote:Ive got a GFB MACH 1 Bov is a fairly decent one its not a cheap trademe copy


AND?!?!

Your not reading any of what we are saying are you?
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Postby fivebob » Sun Apr 08, 2007 5:18 pm

Heapho wrote:Ive got a GFB MACH 1 Bov is a fairly decent one its not a cheap trademe copy

Looks pretty cheap to me, The stock one will do a much better job. :wink:

The only one that will do as good a job as the stock system is the HKS SSQV, but it won't act as a bypass valve so you still lose some off boost response.
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