4agze goes chuff??

[pjay]

Ok so i relocated my battery to the boot and installed a cold air box yesterday (very carefully)..The car was sweet! could definately notice an increase in power after the box was in..

Woke up this morning, but when i started the car i knew something was wrong. it didnt hold idle at first, just died..After the engine warmed up a bit i went down the road a bit and noticed i have no supercharger light, and no power, so no supercharger at all really!

Limped the car home and checked all the intake and there is no blocks or leaks or anything like that.

Basically the car idles fine. but when the throttle is opened it goes bleugh.. and when the throttle is opened quickly, the intake goes "chuff" and revs drop down to 100 before reaching idle again! The supercharger is not working.. im stumped

Could the s/c be stuffed? Did my cold air box intake stuff something?

If anyone has a spare 15 mins and wouldnt mind stopping by to tell me whats buggered, that would be champion!

Thanks

[rollaholic]

more likely to be related to some wiring you've disturbed with the battery relocation than the intake change.

edit - 101 GZE's arent AFM are they?

[themaleman]

yea there MAP sensored, checked u didnt disturb any of the plugs round the s/c? engine check light coming on? checked s/c fuse? (if thers such a thing)

[pjay]

engine light is on.. all fuses are intact. maybe its the s/c clutch? i hope the friggen thing hasnt seized

Anyone know how to remove the s/c?

[sergei]

check if the MAP sensor is still connected (vacuum tube).

[pjay]

check if the MAP sensor is still connected (vacuum tube).

yup. sure is.. there is no boost. engine only revs to 5000rpm, no higher.

Smell of petrol is STRONG.. im guessing not enough air because the s/c isnt blowing

[Si]

What sort of earthing does your moved battery have?

[pjay]

battery is sweet. 0G positive -->> 200A c/b -->> distro -->> 2x4G to engine. 0G grounds at battery.

[Mr Revhead]

engine light is on.. all fuses are intact. maybe its the s/c clutch? i hope the friggen thing hasnt seized

Anyone know how to remove the s/c?

checked the code?

[pjay]

Im not totally sure how to check error codes.. i know theres a lamp used? and it blinks.....

[Boosted_162]

Bridge E1 and TE1 in the diagnostics box, and count the flashes.

Code meanings here viewtopic.php?t=35814.

You may have to reset to clear old codes. Pull efi fuse to do this.

[Mr Revhead]

use a piece of wire or paper clip etc to bridge terminals T and E1 in the diagnostics port in the engine pay. from memory around the l/h strut area.

turn key on, count the flashes.
an ok code is a constant flash
like
- - - - - -

a code will have a gap between it and the next code, a double digit code will have a small gap between the series of flashs and a larger one for the next code
----- -- = 52
----- -- --- -- = 52 and 32

[pjay]

Fcukng sweet! thanks guys.. ill do that now and post up my results. do i need to connect a lamp? or is there a light in there?

[no_8wire]

I think its the check engine light that you count the flashes off?

[pjay]

I think its the check engine light that you count the flashes off?

i hope not. means i gotta connect those terminals then run round to the drivers seat. what if i miss something?

[Mr Revhead]

it repeats untill u disconnect it.
and wont start untill u turn the key to "on"

[pjay]

ahh.. maybe im not doing something right.. the engine light is just staying on.. no flashes.

TE1 and E1 are bridged.. i turned the key to 'on' then 'acc' and even started the engine.. but no flashes

[Dell'Orto]

You might have to clear the gunk out of the diagnostic box, it wont work unless you have a good connection.

[pjay]

bugger.. degreaser? or is that too harsh?

[method]

I always bridge it at the ECU.

You just need to earth T.

(E1 stands for earth)