Just some info people looking at getting their cars certed.. this was on my ae86
(I am bored at work)
I took my car to Neil Fraser on the shore, I would recommend him, he is really into what he does and generally very helpful.
The following things he picked up on and I had to change/add:
• Do not remove the front dash – I have and had to either reinstall it or make a dash with some padding on the passenger side only.
• If you make adjustable arms such as adjustable panhard rod do not just weld a nut onto the end of the bar. Instead use threaded lugs which can be welded and then also welded again by drilling a small hole on each side of the tube.
• If you have significantly increased the power of the car (I don’t know if there is a significant figure.. but mine is turbo) you have to install a driveshaft safety loop that is positioned just behind the front universal joint. This is so that if you break the front uni then the driveshaft will not fly down into the ground and do whatever.. (you will still need to do this even if you have upgraded the uni joints and tube… even in my case where I used hilux joints which are twice the size of ae86 items).
• If you use fiberglass doors which have nothing in them.. (and hence flex like a mother). You will need to install a 25mm tube that basically goes from the catch to the hinge. This is to stop the door popping out or pulling apart in a crash. Kinda goes against the whole lightening thing…
• If you don’t have door cards and have sharp edges on fiberglass you need to put rubber lining around the edges.
• Make sure you use locknuts or spring and flat washers on all suspension parts.
• The speedo needs to be within 10%. Mine wasn’t and I took it to Auckland speedo services which cost 119$ to get recalibrated.
Taking it back on Monday and then will be all kapai
Team Megasquirt
1984 AE86
180kW, 600Nm@wheels @ 16.5psi
make sure you don't lose the rubber blanking grommets from your firewall, i failed on this. because if theres a fire in the engine bay they are supposed to stop it from going into the car.
no_8wire wrote:Price goes up as list of things they need to check gets bigger...
I think for to 3 mods its 350 standard...
nope. i had shitloads sone to me ae85 and was still $350 eg suspension, enging, box, wheels, RCAs etc etc . the price goes up on what modifications hve been done eg. cutting and welding of suspension parts or chassis will be more expensive not weather tou get your steering wheel mags and seats etc its different levels of modification not quantity of mods, well thats how it seems to work down here anyways.
All the papers signed by your certifier, saying what has been checked, what has been send of and tested and what not. It's just a copy of what they send to LTSA that the make your plate from. It has all the little bits that they leave of for some reason.
weird.. i paid 420 with neil..and he did my authority card at same time.. and my list of modifications is longer than zaks.
as far i know they can charge whatever they like..
yea i will make sure i get some sort of paperwork that lists absolutly everythign... just incase it gets missed off plate... and surely they wouldnt be able to fit everything on th eplate anyway..
Team Megasquirt
1984 AE86
180kW, 600Nm@wheels @ 16.5psi
Thats a damn good effort if you've got more mods than mine
There isn't enought space for things like frontal impact, hand brakes, bonnet vents, couldn't even fit my diff on the plate
Infact the whole plate system is sort of a waste of time, surely they could just put a date of inspection, vin and what ever, and just put the mods on there database or what ever.
yeah he missed off the adjutable arms.
i want them on the plate as they are a lot easier to spot than a few things that are on the plate so im more likely to have issues with them.
its not as if theres no room fior them.
hes done a few things i was suprised at.
mentioned my 3mm spacers and the height on the plate. even though its not really low at all, and isnt adjustable for height.