Too much volts ????

MAGN1T · Post by **MAGN1T** » Thu Jun 19, 2008 10:30 pm

Maybe you're using a "fake" chineese made voltmeter?

jondee86 · Post by **jondee86** » Sat Jun 21, 2008 7:25 pm

Went to start the car today, and the battery was flatter than... a really
flat thing

Pulled the alternator out and according to my amateurish
testing, there is at least one diode that gives the same reading with
either polarity.

I figure it has shorted and allowed the electricity to leak out of the
battery while it has been sitting. Same thing probably caused the higher
than usual voltage while charging.

Anyways, its either repair or replace the alternator time :-|

Just hope
it hasn't killed the battery. If it has, is that covered by the battery
warranty ?? It is only about 6 months old and a quality NZ made item.

Cheers... jondee86

MR2SIK · Post by **MR2SIK** » Sun Jun 22, 2008 12:06 am

MAGN1T wrote:Maybe you're using a "fake" chineese made voltmeter?

http://file034a.bebo.com/9/large/2007/06/10/03/18613059a4635439204l.jpg
doesnt look overly fake or chinese to me

rollaholic · Post by **rollaholic** » Sun Jun 22, 2008 8:45 am

just dont tell them the battery died because your alt shit itself. i've never really been asked too many questions when i take batteries back at work.

MAGN1T · Post by **MAGN1T** » Sun Jun 22, 2008 11:18 am

MR2SIK wrote:
MAGN1T wrote:Maybe you're using a "fake" chineese made voltmeter?

http://file034a.bebo.com/9/large/2007/06/10/03/18613059a4635439204l.jpg
doesnt look overly fake or chinese to me

That's NOT a voltmeter.

That's an overly expensive black box that underperforms the thing that was there beforehand.

You can't beat the real thing.

Steve

cat007 · Post by **cat007** » Sun Jun 22, 2008 11:29 am

I'm not sure what we're looking at?

Alex B · Post by **Alex B** » Sun Jun 22, 2008 1:16 pm

Me thinks the link would give you a voltage readout.

JRS · Post by **JRS** » Sun Jun 22, 2008 2:32 pm

but it's not as accurate as a real voltmeter and you can't take measurmets at various points in the charging system for making a diagnosis.

matt dunn · Post by **matt dunn** » Sun Jun 22, 2008 7:16 pm

JRS wrote:but it's not as accurate as a real voltmeter and you can't take measurmets at various points in the charging system for making a diagnosis.

correct, as it only reads voltage at the ECU,

but if you are getting 15V at the ecu,
then there is only going to be higher voltage than that at the alternator, not lower.

MAGN1T · Post by **MAGN1T** » Sun Jun 22, 2008 10:15 pm

Unless the link has had the software fudged to reduce the error. All computers tell lies.

It's not hard to check the voltage the proper way.

The check light usually (a generalisation) has the battery voltage at one side, via the ignition switch and the other side of the light goes through the rotor and regulator to earth.So long as the alternator is making voltage(which is also fed to the rotor via diode bridge) , the light won't come on, unless there's a short in the regulator.

Steve

matt dunn · Post by **matt dunn** » Sun Jun 22, 2008 11:05 pm

MAGN1T wrote:The check light usually (a generalisation) has the battery voltage at one side, via the ignition switch and the other side of the light goes through the rotor and regulator to earth.So long as the alternator is making voltage(which is also fed to the rotor via diode bridge) , the light won't come on, unless there's a short in the regulator.

Steve

Not in a toyota alternator, as one side of the brush holder is permanently connected to BATT + supply inside the alt.

The light is switched off electronicaly by the regulator by correct voltage on the sensing wire, and buy AC pulse to the stator terminal on the regulator.

There are no exciter diodes in them, just 8 main diodes.

Toyspeed

Too much volts ????

Not enough volts... actually, no volts at all !!!!