Replacing clutch on 99 caldina st215w 3sgte

[HamzGTT]

Im about to carry out replacing the clutch & cambelt on my car and have spoken to many repairs and they say its best to pull the whole motor and gear box out. pretty much all im after is tips on how to remove engine & gearbox like a tip by tip guide. I've been told it will take about 3 days?? to do the whole job so you ppl out there that have done it can you fire your tips my way.

[Trls250s]

Big ask to ask someone to sit down and write you a guide, step by step how to do it.

Most people recommend dropping the box and motor out the bottom and lifting the chassi/body over the engine and box.

Ive ripped a couple 3s's out of gt4's now and one way we did it was drop it out the bottom, the other was to pull it through the top. Both were as difficult as each other so it depends.

I would say you will have a seriously shit time trying to do it without a engine crane.

Do you have all the appropriate literature on how to fit cambelt/clutch?

[lucasthefallen]

easiest way is to drop it out the bottom. even then seperating the g/box and transfers assemble from the motor isnt the easiest task.

[deaf_rattle]

yep, out the bottom.

hold the car up with a dog chain.

[rollaholic]

the best way to do it is take it to your local toyota specialist

[strx7]

unless you have either a car hoist or forklift you're in for a b1tch of a time. Out the bottom is the easiest method, and the gearbox/transfer need to be rotated to get on and off the bellhousing pattern of the motor.

Have you got the parts sorted for it? I'd look at doing the rear main seal while you're in there, water pump aswell.

[Mr Revhead]

make sure you have a competent mate/mechanic there with you....


its not a job for beginners!

[lucasthefallen]

the last one i did was 6 1/2 hours, and that was with a hoist

[HamzGTT]

Im doing the job myself on hoist at a proper mechanics site. im doing everything except the seals seeing that the car has only done 94000kms I dont see the point of fixing sumthin that aint broke if it was around the 200000km mark then yes. some one did say that the center diff and g/box are a bit of a sh*t to remove. pretty much all I am after is tips in removal and assembly like do i need to remove the p/steering rack as it is fixed to the x member/subframe same with p/steer pump is it best to remove the lines or whole pump. does the radiator need to come out? stuff like that. My appoligies if i seam to be a bit of a pain but i want to go in loaded before i tackle this task

[Adamal]

im doing everything except the seals seeing that the car has only done 94000kms I dont see the point of fixing sumthin that aint broke if it was around the 200000km mark then yes.

Heh! Thats like saying that you won't replace the cambelt until it breaks!

It would be a good idea to replace the seals while you have it all out. Around the 100,000km mark is when you want to be doing it. Saves you the extra hassle in the future.

[HamzGTT]

Too many ppl say you get more problems replacing the seals than leaving the original ones in there. I understand where your coming from originally that was my plan to replace everything.

[lucasthefallen]

if you use genuine seals and install them correctly you wont have a problem.

to remove engine go out the bottom,

unplug the loom from the ecu ( behind glovebox )and poke through the fire wall
remove shifter cables and clutch slave line.
undo p/s and ac/c pumps and leave behind.
remove 2x bolts holding the rack, and leave that behind also.
remove front section of exhuast
drain all the fluids
remove driveshafts
undo the 3x bolts on each side that hold the lower ball joint.
undo front and rear mounts
remove subframe
put table or something of the like under the motor and box
get up on ladder and undo the left and right mounts.
raise hoist up and leave motor behind on table

easy as that. ( i may have missed something small )

[Mr Revhead]

Too many ppl say you get more problems replacing the seals than leaving the original ones in there. I understand where your coming from originally that was my plan to replace everything.

note those ppl and never ever listen to them again
its an S motor it WILL leak

[HamzGTT]

thanks for that guys. As most of you have stated I will actually do the seals (genuine ones too) but one problem when it comes to the oil pump the parts sales man at toyota told me that the oil pump cog breaks easily and should i do both seals the o ring seal and the seal behind the pump?

EDIT: currently as we speak/type moment my car dosent even drop a single amount of oil so to make sure is it best to replace the seals??

[strx7]

thing is, its going to be 100,000km until you NEED to do the cambelt again right. That means the seals will be 200,000km old, almost guarantee they call it quits before they reach 200 clicks which means you will need to pull the engine out AGAIN.

If you do the seals in the oil pump, make SURE you full the oil pump up with oil when you put it all back together. I had an arse of a time trying to get my oil pump to prime on my rebuild.

[lucasthefallen]

a new oil pump rotor kit is only like $80 or something retail.

[HamzGTT]

If you do the seals in the oil pump, make SURE you full the oil pump up with oil when you put it all back together. I had an ar*e of a time trying to get my oil pump to prime on my rebuild.

I heard if you assemble the pump with grease it will help with the priming process is this true?

so is it best to by the oil pully as well and if it dosent break just send the new one back?