Which gauge kit?

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Which gauge kit?

Postby RS13 » Thu Sep 25, 2008 8:38 pm

Hi guys,

I'm a total newbie when it comes to sound systems, I've been given a 300Wx2 amp for a job I did, however there seems to be a fair few different gauge wiring kits avaliable. I've got a 12" MTX sub, which gauge wiring would be best? Most trademe ones seem to be either 8-gauge or 12-gauge.

Also, apparently I'm supposed to bridge the amp to get 600W to the sub, which is rated at 1200W. Is this right?

Cheers.
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Postby johndoe1025 » Thu Sep 25, 2008 8:41 pm

yes. a severely under driven sub (eg yours) is not good for it though. i run 4ga for a 1300w sub and 800w amp fully cranking its guts out but you will get away with 8ga easy. dont go 12 haha its too small. to bridge it you just put the positive output 2 the sub on channel one, and the negative on channel two. bridged. it may say "BTL" or something to let you know your connecting it in bridged mode
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Postby scotty_ish » Thu Sep 25, 2008 8:48 pm

8awg at the least, bigger the better :D
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Postby johndoe1025 » Thu Sep 25, 2008 8:50 pm

what he said. but dont go stupid big, ull look like a tool :P 4ga gives you more room for improvement later on
EP82 GT-went mega hard for completely stock, 15.09 quarter, gone now :(

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Postby Bling » Thu Sep 25, 2008 9:11 pm

Are all the watt ratings you state RMS?

I have a kit somewhere from my Levin which is 8ga I think, suits amp under seat and subs in boot i'm happy to sell on.

PM me if interested in it at all
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Postby DeeCee » Thu Sep 25, 2008 9:17 pm

4GA kit and you should be fine :)
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Postby RS13 » Thu Sep 25, 2008 10:51 pm

BZG|bling, thanks anyway man, but at this stage I'm putting the amp in the boot with the sub. :)

Not sure on the other things, its' the same as this one:
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 064197.htm

If I'm underdriving that sub, then what rating sub do you recommend? 1000W? Am I better off with a 10"?

I don't want too much of a horrible rumble, I want clean, punchy bass. I'm sure I've seen those 222W sony amps drive a 12"? Argh I dunno.

What would the sound quality be like with an underdriven sub?
Daily driver: Toyota RunX/Toyota Caldina
Ex: 2x AE101, 5x KP60, KP61, EP71, 3x KE70, KE72, AE70, AE82, 2x TE71, AE90, AE92, ST170, plus 11 Hondas, 12 Nissans, 6 Fords, 4 Mazdas, 3 Mitsis, an Isuzu and a Lada!

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Postby Subway » Thu Sep 25, 2008 10:57 pm

RS13 wrote:BZG|bling, thanks anyway man, but at this stage I'm putting the amp in the boot with the sub. :)

Not sure on the other things, its' the same as this one:
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 064197.htm

If I'm underdriving that sub, then what rating sub do you recommend? 1000W? Am I better off with a 10"?

I don't want too much of a horrible rumble, I want clean, punchy bass. I'm sure I've seen those 222W sony amps drive a 12"? Argh I dunno.

What would the sound quality be like with an underdriven sub?


that amp would be lucky to hit 80wrms id imagine, not really even worth putting in your car IMO
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Postby johndoe1025 » Thu Sep 25, 2008 10:58 pm

its not a mater of sound quality its just that ive heard that it destroys your voice coils. ive never had a problem personally 10 inch will give you punchier bass
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Postby DeeCee » Thu Sep 25, 2008 11:07 pm

It destroys your coils because it can't output what it is "rated" at and the signal the amp sends to the sub is distorted.

Keeping playing a distorted signal and you're bound to fry a sub or speakers.

Its an untrue statement that a 10" will give punchier bass. It comes down to the subwoofers design and box design over the general statement of 10" = punchier sound.
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Postby johndoe1025 » Thu Sep 25, 2008 11:11 pm

i can attest to it being punchier. my mate and I, both had sony subs, his the red 1200W 10 inch, mine the 1300W 12 red. his one gives so much more punch its not funny. and its not the way the amps are set up either, his one just genuinely had more oomph it seems. but yes, box design and subwoofer design has a lot to do with it, if you have a tuned sub and box, you get much better sound then the sound that comes out of a prefab box with a sub youve just chucked in
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Postby Bling » Fri Sep 26, 2008 12:53 am

Same amps / settings / cars etc?

Each can majorly affect a subs "punch" as you put it

apples and oranges etc
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Postby pjay » Fri Sep 26, 2008 1:36 pm

Sell your sonys and youll see the light
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Postby johndoe1025 » Fri Sep 26, 2008 5:54 pm

haha its algood, got a pioneer 12 wit sony amp at the moment, selling that to go to soundstream picasso and either a little wonder amp or something similar. maybe even 4ch to run some front components :P
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Postby RS13 » Fri Sep 26, 2008 7:01 pm

Subway wrote:
RS13 wrote:BZG|bling, thanks anyway man, but at this stage I'm putting the amp in the boot with the sub. :)

Not sure on the other things, its' the same as this one:
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 064197.htm

If I'm underdriving that sub, then what rating sub do you recommend? 1000W? Am I better off with a 10"?

I don't want too much of a horrible rumble, I want clean, punchy bass. I'm sure I've seen those 222W sony amps drive a 12"? Argh I dunno.

What would the sound quality be like with an underdriven sub?


that amp would be lucky to hit 80wrms id imagine, not really even worth putting in your car IMO


RMS bridged power @ 4 Ohm is 170W.

If it was that shit, then why is it pretty much only sold in a package with a 1300W sub?

Can someone just tell me what size and wattage rating sub to get that would make the best out of my amp?
Daily driver: Toyota RunX/Toyota Caldina
Ex: 2x AE101, 5x KP60, KP61, EP71, 3x KE70, KE72, AE70, AE82, 2x TE71, AE90, AE92, ST170, plus 11 Hondas, 12 Nissans, 6 Fords, 4 Mazdas, 3 Mitsis, an Isuzu and a Lada!

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Postby method » Fri Sep 26, 2008 8:46 pm

I have a tsunami 0/1ga kit for sale if you want :lol:
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Postby DeeCee » Fri Sep 26, 2008 9:50 pm

RS13 wrote:
RMS bridged power @ 4 Ohm is 170W.

If it was that sh*t, then why is it pretty much only sold in a package with a 1300W sub?

Can someone just tell me what size and wattage rating sub to get that would make the best out of my amp?


Because they are lying to you. They would rather rate a piece of equipment high on bullshiz parameters like PMPO or maximum output and boost your ego rather than letting you make an educated choice in spending your money.

If that amp does push out 170Wrms @ 4 ohm, then you would ideally want a sub that operates at 200Wrms with a single 4 ohm coil.

Even better would be a sub that is rated at 150Wrms @ 4 ohms because that way you would have overhead.
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Postby soopachargen » Sat Sep 27, 2008 11:54 am

method wrote:I have a tsunami 0/1ga kit for sale if you want :lol:


he wants to run a sony amp, not moor a container ship :lol:
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Postby RS13 » Sat Sep 27, 2008 12:09 pm

DeeCee wrote:
RS13 wrote:
RMS bridged power @ 4 Ohm is 170W.

If it was that sh*t, then why is it pretty much only sold in a package with a 1300W sub?

Can someone just tell me what size and wattage rating sub to get that would make the best out of my amp?


Because they are lying to you. They would rather rate a piece of equipment high on bullshiz parameters like PMPO or maximum output and boost your ego rather than letting you make an educated choice in spending your money.

If that amp does push out 170Wrms @ 4 ohm, then you would ideally want a sub that operates at 200Wrms with a single 4 ohm coil.

Even better would be a sub that is rated at 150Wrms @ 4 ohms because that way you would have overhead.


Exactly what I wanted to know! Thanks heaps chap, you're a legend. :)
Daily driver: Toyota RunX/Toyota Caldina
Ex: 2x AE101, 5x KP60, KP61, EP71, 3x KE70, KE72, AE70, AE82, 2x TE71, AE90, AE92, ST170, plus 11 Hondas, 12 Nissans, 6 Fords, 4 Mazdas, 3 Mitsis, an Isuzu and a Lada!

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