1GGTE valve stem removal.

[Quint]

Pulled off the rockers because of a noise in the camshaft, turned out that the cam lobe had worn oddly on cylinder 2 IN side causing the shim to become dished, the shim eventually 'jumped' off the bucket causing the very loud noise.

So need to replace cam shaft and shim.

While i'm there, i'm also considering replacing my valve stem oil seals and was hoping i'd be able to remove the valve stems without removing the head, is this possible? If so, How?

Engine is a 1G-GTE

[rollaholic]

its possible, its pretty backyard special though

set up appropriate cylinder at a few degrees before TDC so all valves are closed but you can still shift the piston further up the bore. remove the plug and fill the compression chamber with oil, the higher viscosity the better, till its covering the thread of the plug hole. replace the plug and turn the engine a few more degrees, hopefully if your rings etc are in good condition it will become quite difficult to turn as liquid is essentially impossible to compress. the oil will hopefully keep the valve from falling into the combustion chamber when you remove the spring - you'll probably need to put a 10mm socket or something over the top of the retainer and hit it with a hammer to push the spring down and get the collets to pop out.

once the spring is out you can replace the valve stem seal, then all you need to do is work out a way to compress the valve spring enough to get the collets and retainer back on. once you've changed all the seals you want on that cylinder disable the engine from sparking, remove the sparkplug and crank it to pump the oil out of the plug hole. or if you are feeling technological you can get a suction tube thing and try and suck it out. i wouldnt recommend starting the engine till you are certain most of the oil is out of the combustion chamber. it'll still smoke heaps once you start it up but should settle down fairly quickly.

if you arent confident with what you are doing its probably better to just take the head off, as if you $&#$% up the above you'll have to take it off anyway

edit - you wont be able to get valves or guides out without removing the head - but im pretty sure you are asking about the seals. unless you know they are leaking i wouldnt bother personally

[matt dunn]

wont work with oil, as it will drain away past tghe rings too fast,

unless you reckon you can remove the keepers, swap the seals and re-assemble all in about 10 seconds.


put the piston half way up the bore,

feed softish type rope down the spark plug hole as much as you can,
and then turn the engine by hand and push th piston up the bore to hold the valves shut, feel the pressure in there by hand.

But best thing to do is pull the head off.

[Quint]

But best thing to do is pull the head off.

By the sound of things yea, already got both manifolds off, so just got to get the SST on monday to crack the head.

And yea, i'm pretty confident the valve stems are leaking.

[mjrstar]

apparently the 7m valve stem seals are the go for the 1ggte heaps cheaper and more readily available, i have heard of the rope trick before, but never tried it myself. most 1ggte's seem to have an apetite for head gaskets when they get a bit older anyway...

also with the head bolts i have heard conflicting info on torquing them up. some manuals state torque to yield and others are just a normal torque. i think mine ended up at around 48ft/lbs.

with regards to the head bolt removal if you get the correct 3/8 drive inhex socket it fits much better than a 1/2'' drive. ( i think they are 8mm but could be wrong there) as the 1/2 drive one touches the castings on a couple of the bolts.

everything else was pretty straight foreward, altough i bit tigt in my car sorting out the cam belt tensioner, but i guess there will be more room in your car.
good luck.

[rollaholic]

is messy but doable in my experience, as long as you leave yourself some crank rotation to keep compressing it. but the rope is a much better idea!

[Jason T]

Use rope inside bore.

Buy the seal pillers

Yes the paper trick works.

http://supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=367794

[cat007]

yes - 7M ones are the same as 1G ones.

I used exhaust side ones on both intake and exhaust side - as they can handle higher temp. They are cheap as chips from toyota - maybe $1 each or less.....I could get you a cheap price - my mate owns Jennings Engineering - i.e. cylinder head specialists....

I have random shims for the 1G - from an old 1G I had a while back - also have some from a 1G-GZE - they're still on the head - I think they're the same.....I'm located on the north shore....

[Quint]

^^ PM sent.

To save from creating a new thread.

Differances between the 1G-GE and the GTE? Same cams? Shims? and cambelt? Or are they all differant?

Having trouble locating parts for the GTE is all while GE parts are plentiful.

[cat007]

^^ PM sent.

To save from creating a new thread.

Differances between the 1G-GE and the GTE? Same cams? Shims? and cambelt? Or are they all differant?

Having trouble locating parts for the GTE is all while GE parts are plentiful.

GE and GTE heads are pretty similar except I think there might be a few differences with where the thermostat housing goes. I've noticed the GZE and GTE are different in that aspect.
GE cams are a little more aggressive and have more lift and longer duration. I'm running GE cams in my engine.
Internally, the shims, buckets, keepers, etc are all the same between GZE/GTE and GE's.....

[MAGN1T]

, turned out that the cam lobe had worn oddly on cylinder 2 IN side causing the shim to become dished, the shim eventually 'jumped' off the bucket causing the very loud noise.

Your explaination doesn't make sense to me.

All the Toyotas I've seen, the shim sits on top of the valve stem, the bucket sits on top of that, the cam runs on the bucket..... so how can the shim come out? the valve might be bent?

Of course you' d have already given it a compression test to make sure it's OK and check there's no oil on the thread of the plug?

Maybe I'm on completely the wrong track?

Steve

[sergei]

, turned out that the cam lobe had worn oddly on cylinder 2 IN side causing the shim to become dished, the shim eventually 'jumped' off the bucket causing the very loud noise.

Your explaination doesn't make sense to me.

All the Toyotas I've seen, the shim sits on top of the valve stem, the bucket sits on top of that, the cam runs on the bucket..... so how can the shim come out? the valve might be bent?

Of course you' d have already given it a compression test to make sure it's OK and check there's no oil on the thread of the plug?

Maybe I'm on completely the wrong track?

Steve

Yes you are, most toyotas have shims on top.
Very rare for them to have under, only higher performance toyotas have under.

[cat007]

Your explaination doesn't make sense to me.

All the Toyotas I've seen, the shim sits on top of the valve stem, the bucket sits on top of that, the cam runs on the bucket..... so how can the shim come out? the valve might be bent?

Of course you' d have already given it a compression test to make sure it's OK and check there's no oil on the thread of the plug?

Maybe I'm on completely the wrong track?

Steve

all supra motors I've come across have the bucket on the valve then the shim on the bucket.....

[mjrstar]

as for the heads N/A has 3 large welsh plugs on the top between the cams and s/c - turbo have 6 smaller ones. other than that they do seem to be very similar, gen 1-2-3 all had different casting numbers but that's another debate.

rumor has it N/A cams are worth around 30hp with the correct supporting mods. I'm running them in mine and it seems to work ok.

i may post up some of the oil system mods i have done to my spare engine at some stage (if anyone is interested)
anyone keen on an adjustable cam gear group buy?

[Quint]

rumor has it N/A cams are worth around 30hp with the correct supporting mods. I'm running them in mine and it seems to work ok.

Good sir, tell me more

i may post up some of the oil system mods i have done to my spare engine at some stage (if anyone is interested)

Deffinatly interested.

[cat007]

anyone keen on an adjustable cam gear group buy?

Depending on price - YES

[cat007]

i may post up some of the oil system mods i have done to my spare engine at some stage (if anyone is interested)

They're in your build project thread aren't they?

[mjrstar]

i may post up some of the oil system mods i have done to my spare engine at some stage (if anyone is interested)

They're in your build project thread aren't they?

there may be descriptions but no pics.. i won't be home for a couple of months anyway so progress will be slow.

[mjrstar]

, turned out that the cam lobe had worn oddly on cylinder 2 IN side causing the shim to become dished, the shim eventually 'jumped' off the bucket causing the very loud noise.

Your explaination doesn't make sense to me.

All the Toyotas I've seen, the shim sits on top of the valve stem, the bucket sits on top of that, the cam runs on the bucket..... so how can the shim come out? the valve might be bent?

Of course you' d have already given it a compression test to make sure it's OK and check there's no oil on the thread of the plug?

Maybe I'm on completely the wrong track?

Steve

Yes you are, most toyotas have shims on top.
Very rare for them to have under, only higher performance toyotas have under.

yep, pretty sure TRD or someone do shim under followers for the likes of high rpm 4age's.

the retaining lip is pretty shallow, imagine how nasty it would be with reground cams and thicker shims...

[matt dunn]

[
yep, pretty sure TRD or someone do shim under followers for the likes of high rpm 4age's.

the retaining lip is pretty shallow, imagine how nasty it would be with reground cams and thicker shims...

When we ran a 1GGZE/TE version with aftermarket cams,
the trick was to set the tappets then tack/weld the shims to the buckets,
or else at high rpm the cams flick out the shims.

Only the later model stuff had the shims under the buckets.
and there is a version of 1NZ or 1SZ 1 piece buckets/shims available for use in the 16v 4age's.