GTT Drag Time

[BZG Wagon]

Taking my standard / factory spec manual Caldina GTT down to the drags in a few weeks. What would be a good time to aim for?

I'm guessing they'd do around a mid 14?!?

Also the start - is it worth 'launching it' (given I don't want to break it)? Or just a high rev slip the clutch type start?

[cat007]

What clutch have you got in it?

Make sure there's someone on the start line videoing you!

[GTTpower]

Flat 14's are the factory quoted 1/4 mile time. Id say about there if you know what your doing shifting wise.
Pump your tyres up hard (35-40psi) if you want to reduce stress on the drivetrain, also if you can, take out the boat anchor rear seats.

You going to the first nightspeeds? Mate of mine is hopefully coming along with his 3SGTE powered ST195 to go for the 4wd caldina record

[metal_sean_head]

Depends if you granny shift or double clutch like you should.

[dnalunchie]

Depends if you granny shift or double clutch like you should.

Your ganna be lucky if that second shot of NOS doesnt blow apart you highcomp 3sgte, PERIOD!

[DXROLLA]

Doesnt matter if it does you can get over night parts from japan

[dnalunchie]

Doesnt matter if it does you can get over night parts from japan

tehehehe

[Bling]

If you didn't want to brake it, you wouldn't be launching a 4wd

Just make sure the manifold is bolted up tight as you won't want it dropping out of the passenger foot well.

[BZG Wagon]

LOL! The dreaded manifold warning...

I'm lining it up against my firends dads ver5 STI, and another mates 2dr R33 GTS25T Skyline.

All 3 cars are standard & similar years, so there won't be any seat unbolting . I expect the STi will be out in front, and not sure how I'll go against the skyline. Should be a fun night.

My clutch is factory (as far as I'm aware). 140kms on the clock - I want to be reasonably gentle on it. First time racing at the drags too.

I was thinking:
* Oil change the weekend before.
* 1/4 tank of petrol.
* 38 - 40 psi in the tyres (esp. hard at the rear).
* Load the car up on the handbrake when the lights start, drop handbrake & slip clutch until car is moving - then go for it.

Why would I double clutch? Wouldn't that slow you?

[3T-Rona]

Why would I double clutch? Wouldn't that slow you?

Watch The Fast And The Furious a couple more times.......

[dnalunchie]

LOL! The dreaded manifold warning...

I'm lining it up against my firends dads ver5 STI, and another mates 2dr R33 GTS25T Skyline.

All 3 cars are standard & similar years, so there won't be any seat unbolting . I expect the STi will be out in front, and not sure how I'll go against the skyline. Should be a fun night.

My clutch is factory (as far as I'm aware). 140kms on the clock - I want to be reasonably gentle on it. First time racing at the drags too.

I was thinking:
* Oil change the weekend before.
* 1/4 tank of petrol.
* 38 - 40 psi in the tyres (esp. hard at the rear).
* Load the car up on the handbrake when the lights start, drop handbrake & slip clutch until car is moving - then go for it.

Why would I double clutch? Wouldn't that slow you?

This may be slightly pedantic but wouldn't you risk potential fuel starvation if you ran too dry in the fuel tank considering the G-forces?

[GTTpower]

Your better off running a 1/2 tank, bugger all difference seeing as your not taking out any interior which contributes most of the removable weight.
Agree on running hard in the rear, don't want any of this front wheel spin bullshit.

Doubt you'll beat the STi unless you put a curse on its gearbox, and the skyline have you at the top end so you'll have to beat him on the launch

[metal_sean_head]

And it doesn't matter if you win by an inch or a mile. Winning's winning.

[Al]

This may be slightly pedantic but wouldn't you risk potential fuel starvation if you ran too dry in the fuel tank considering the G-forces?

Yes it is too pedantic.

However with the earth stopping torque a standard GTT produces I understand your concern.

[metal_sean_head]

Lucky its not a 4AGE. With the amount of torque they make you would need to have a full tank to prevent starvation.

[dnalunchie]

This may be slightly pedantic but wouldn't you risk potential fuel starvation if you ran too dry in the fuel tank considering the G-forces?

Yes it is too pedantic.

However with the earth stopping torque a standard GTT produces I understand your concern.

Yeah if it was any other car i wouldn't worry, its just i know how much rawr power a 3sgte can make

[RedMist]

Depends if you granny shift or double clutch like you should.

Double clutch? Only if you're trying to be both slow and destructive on your drivetrain!
Double clutching is for non synchro, dog boxes on downshift. And then only necessary on older style dogs... like those found in heavy trucks.

If you want to be fast then it's smooth and quick that'll get you the lowest time. You can be a little quicker by punishing your clutch on launch and slip it slightly to keep the engine at the highest torque RPM. But disengaging the clutch letting the engine build up RPM and let it bite again isn't the way to be fast in any motorsport.

Personally I like to lanuch on a trailing throttle. By blipping the throttle and letting it fall just before launching means the engine is rich and in a high torque situation. With low RPM it also means that if there is slip its minor (as the engine isn't on cam). I've used this technique with my race cars from a NA cammed to hell 4AGE to my grunt monster VQ35.

You'll also need to chase the throttle. Don't slam it wide open, put about half throttle into it then chase up the RPM with more throttle. As the RPM increases the air required by the engine is increased. We got 12% more power from a G13 on the dyno by simply chasing up the throttle. It may take some practice, but just put throttle in smoothly and count out a few seconds (while continuiously putting in more throttle) before hitting the throttle stop. Remember that smoother is quicker.

[Malcolm]

* Load the car up on the handbrake when the lights start, drop handbrake & slip clutch until car is moving - then go for it.

nononononono. no.

Don't use the handbrake, definitely don't "load it up on the handbrake". Roll up, stop (using the foot brake), make sure you're fully stationary, then take your foot off the brake and don't touch it again until after you go through the speed trap.

If you're going to slip the clutch (I wouldn't) then don't pump the tyres up so high because you wont be stressing the drivetrain that much anyway, leave them at a normal pressure that you use for everyday driving.

When I dragged my ST185 I just held it around 6K, then sidestepped off the clutch and put my right foot flat. Good enough for 1.7 60 foots, but it did eventually cost me a gearbox.

[cat007]

When I dragged my ST185 I just held it around 6K, then sidestepped off the clutch and put my right foot flat. Good enough for 1.7 60 foots, but it did eventually cost me a gearbox.

Try that with a standard 140K clutch....

[iOnic]

If you want to get off the line as quickly as possible in an AWD car you're gonna have to leave your mechanical sympathy at home. If you actually care about being able to drive the car afterwards then just drive it off the line and focus on getting your shifting right during the run.