Altezza Beams Carina

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Altezza Beams Carina

Postby Babz » Thu Feb 03, 2011 2:45 pm

Hey guys. Has anyone done an Altezza conversion that i can have a chat with. They are apparently not the easiest to wire up and get working properly. Would love some info before i start pouring money out and buying myself a beams conversion motor. Any help would be highly appreciated.
1982 Carina TA63 (in the making)
1986 Corona TT141 SR20DE (Rear Ended and For Sale)
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Postby fuel » Thu Feb 03, 2011 2:47 pm

RomanV
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Postby xsspeed » Thu Feb 03, 2011 2:50 pm

fuel wrote:RomanV
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Postby spencer » Thu Feb 03, 2011 3:42 pm

^ what they said. to add to the other thread, just get a aftermarket ECU that can do VVTI. Whats the budget?
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Postby RS13 » Thu Feb 03, 2011 5:01 pm

Have a read of.. viewtopic.php?t=50492
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Postby nz_climber » Thu Feb 03, 2011 5:51 pm

what did you want to know? I have wired a beams engine into my lotus 7 with orginal ecu and dash.. not sure if it works yet, but it should be all good as my wiring diagrams were used to wire that

RomanV is using the single vvti redtop version so wiring is simpler than the altezza set up (no multiplexing etc)

http://www.lotus7.co.nz/forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=26
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Postby RomanV » Thu Feb 03, 2011 6:30 pm

xsspeed wrote:RomanV


fuel wrote:RomanV


spencer wrote:RomanV


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Postby Babz » Thu Feb 03, 2011 9:19 pm

Hey Dave. Great talking to you today man. After we spoke i called the guy at Tparts to get a price for GT-T motor but he said the owners son has a 1991 Hilux with the Altezza Beams 6 speed motor in it. I will be going there On Sat to check it out as the guy who wired it up , did it in 3 hours apparently. And he also said it is not fully drive by wire and there is a cable link between the Paddle and Throttle body. If the hilux is still running the standard dash and cluster etc and it all works , then i will chuck the Altezza motor in and roll the car to the guy to wire it up.
1982 Carina TA63 (in the making)
1986 Corona TT141 SR20DE (Rear Ended and For Sale)
1998 Audi A3 1.8T (wifes daily driver)
2011 Mitsubishi Triton (Work Ute)
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Postby Babz » Thu Feb 03, 2011 9:31 pm

what did you want to know? I have wired a beams engine into my lotus 7 with orginal ecu and dash.. not sure if it works yet, but it should be all good as my wiring diagrams were used to wire that

RomanV is using the single vvti redtop version so wiring is simpler than the altezza set up (no multiplexing etc)


Thank NZ_climber. So would you say the motor will be able to be wired up without me changing my ignition barrel etc. Do i need to buy anything else form the altezza dash when i purchase the full conversion motor and box?
1982 Carina TA63 (in the making)
1986 Corona TT141 SR20DE (Rear Ended and For Sale)
1998 Audi A3 1.8T (wifes daily driver)
2011 Mitsubishi Triton (Work Ute)
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Postby Babz » Thu Feb 03, 2011 9:42 pm

^what they said. to add to the other thread, just get a aftermarket ECU that can do VVTI. Whats the budget?


Cameron from Tparts said he knows 2 guys (One rwd Corona , One 1991 Hilux) running the 6 speed altezza motor with the standard ECU. I will go to Tparts on Sat Morning and check out the Hilux , then decide which way i want to go.
1982 Carina TA63 (in the making)
1986 Corona TT141 SR20DE (Rear Ended and For Sale)
1998 Audi A3 1.8T (wifes daily driver)
2011 Mitsubishi Triton (Work Ute)
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Postby RomanV » Thu Feb 03, 2011 10:07 pm

No probs.

Yeah there's a cable too, however without modification it can only open the throttle half way, the stepper motor does the rest.

I've got an Altezza throttle body where I've disabled the electric stuff and made it completely cable operated...

However I'm not using an ECU that expects outputs from 3 different types of TPS working as per what the computer expects.

So I'm not sure if it would throw error codes.

P.S. Just remembered, if using a GTT engine you'd still need to modify the rear water outlet to fit, probably the trickiest thing about it.

If you know someone who could tackle the wiring, then you're half way there for Altezza motor swap.

Just the fuel system would be the next biggest hurdle.

Some people have tapped a thread into the far end of the Altezza fuel rail and converted to a fuel return system, but you need an FPR which can run at a high enough pressure to suit the factory settings.
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Postby nz_climber » Thu Feb 03, 2011 10:14 pm

I find it hard to believe it was wired in 3 hours.. but I rebuilt the entire loom on mine and took a lot to figure out. But with a standard fusebox and ecu position would be alot quicker..

Its a lot more work to move the ecu into the cabin area, and requires about 5-10 wires be extended..

Things I would be getting are
Engine
ECU with box
Engine Bay fuse and relay box
Drivers side kick panel fuse box with Body Ecu (for interface from fuel sender to cluster)
Fuel Pump assembly and secondary sender unit.
Flexible fuel lines
Gauge Cluster
Exhaust Primarys and Secondarys
Airbox

Plugs for everything (if you can't get the entire dash loom etc)

Pretty sure you don't have to change the ignition barrel, but maybe get it and the key just in case (if you can for free but pretty sure most imports don't have the immobiliser)

Fly by wire throttle: There is a direct cable link from the pedal to the throttle body, which moves the accelerator position sensor where it need to be, then the ecu tells a motor within the throttle body to move the butterfly. Simple..

Hope that helps
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Postby Babz » Thu Feb 03, 2011 10:17 pm

Some people have tapped a thread into the far end of the Altezza fuel rail and converted to a fuel return system, but you need an FPR which can run at a high enough pressure to suit the factory settings.


Yeah if someone can tackle the wiring for me i am all good to tackle the mechanical side of things. I think i will be converting the Altezza to a return system , but first will see how the the Hilux has been done on Sat and go from there.
1982 Carina TA63 (in the making)
1986 Corona TT141 SR20DE (Rear Ended and For Sale)
1998 Audi A3 1.8T (wifes daily driver)
2011 Mitsubishi Triton (Work Ute)
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Postby nz_climber » Thu Feb 03, 2011 10:22 pm

Comment about the fuel system..

If you want to run the flow through system then just need to find a fitting to suit the end of the rail (it has a plug screwed in)

For simplicity I would be running the standard in tank system with non return system, simple and easy and factory computer is set up to handle this. Might need to baffle your existing tank if its from a carb car, or build a small surge tank to fit the pump in.
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Postby Babz » Thu Feb 03, 2011 10:38 pm

Its EFi and the pump is external. Will running a aftermarket pump and FPR not do the job? The system that the Altezza runs, does anyone know if it is mechanical or electronic? meaning when the required fuel pressure is reached , does the computer tell a relief valve to open up or is it done mechanically all in the pump unit?
1982 Carina TA63 (in the making)
1986 Corona TT141 SR20DE (Rear Ended and For Sale)
1998 Audi A3 1.8T (wifes daily driver)
2011 Mitsubishi Triton (Work Ute)
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Postby Babz » Thu Feb 03, 2011 10:40 pm

Car pics up in project section if anyone wants to have a look. Please leave comments and ideas if you want :)
1982 Carina TA63 (in the making)
1986 Corona TT141 SR20DE (Rear Ended and For Sale)
1998 Audi A3 1.8T (wifes daily driver)
2011 Mitsubishi Triton (Work Ute)
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Postby RomanV » Thu Feb 03, 2011 10:42 pm

Just mechanically, built into the fuel pump I believe.

I think there's a pressure dampener on the fuel rail to help stop pressure spiking up or down at the rail end.
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Postby nz_climber » Thu Feb 03, 2011 10:48 pm

Its mechanical just the fuel pressure regulator is build into the pump unit, makes for very neat installation.

No reason why it won't work, but would need to get the fuel pressure right, and I believe its up around 60-65psi mark, which the cheap pumps and FPR on trademe won't do.

I went with factory set up because I needed a custom tank anyway, pump was free with my engine package, and lots of upgrades available if needed, no need for FPR or pump, extra fittings etc. Only need to run 1 fuel line. And was built with the factory ECU in mind so must work ok!

No right or wrong way really, just what suits your project, and that would depend on the tank and surge tank requirements vs how much money you have in the budget for new parts
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Postby Babz » Thu Feb 03, 2011 10:49 pm

Just mechanically, built into the fuel pump I believe.

I think there's a pressure dampener on the fuel rail to help stop pressure spiking up or down at the rail end.


So in theory an external fuel pump and fpr should work because there would only be the fuel pump wires going to the fuel pump. Will look into it on Sat. Appreciate everyones input.
1982 Carina TA63 (in the making)
1986 Corona TT141 SR20DE (Rear Ended and For Sale)
1998 Audi A3 1.8T (wifes daily driver)
2011 Mitsubishi Triton (Work Ute)
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Postby nz_climber » Thu Feb 03, 2011 10:54 pm

4 wires in total

+12 for fuel pump
Earth for fuel pump
+ for fuel sender
- for fuel sender

and yes pulsation damper on the fuel rail. but that is mechanical too
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