Random Questions (Turbo's & General Maintainance)

[BZG Wagon]

In the middle of an oil change on my GTT speed-sleigh-of-doom and wondering....

1) Carb Cleaner + Turbo = Good Idea? I see there's a tiny bit of grey dust like carbon on the turbo fins; would a couple of squirts loosen this and dissolve into the engine and prevent further build ups?

2) How much oil in the turbo is too much? When I pulled the intake pipe off the turbo there was maybe 1/4 - 1/2 a teaspoon sitting in there + a very thin layer of caked oil spread through most of the intake pipe. Also a little bit in what I think is the PCV breather. Can't say I'm overly worried about it - there didn't seem to be any play in the turbo. Is it something I should keep an eye on? Should I be a bit easier on the ol' turbo?

3) What's the best way to clean intake pipes & intercooler? I hear carb cleaner is bad for rubbers & plastics, which is how I traditionally cleaned these things.

4) Is carb cleaner down the throttle a bad idea? A mechanic taught me this trick and I must say it works wonders to throttle response etc. Another mechanic (who I have a lot of respect for) said it was a stupid idea, and he's seen a few vapored locked engines as a result of this technique, not to mention potential damage to sensors (he was pretty fired up about it so I dropped the subject). I can't say I use a hell of a lot of spray and I normally try to run a tiny bit through there while the engines running (I haven't tried this on the dina though).

5) Are Toyota Oil + Air Filters worth it? I used a Repco filter for the first two changes, and I must say the Toyota filters are miles better; they're bigger, smaller jackets, look like the filter more and generally keep the oil looking 'golden' for the entire 5,000kms. The air filter I've never been overly sure about; but at $70 for the combo they're getting a bit pricey for my liking. Any better (or identical yet unbranded) alternatives?

Interested in everyone’s opinions & experiences.

Ta.

[evil_si]

Vapour locked engines... right, i wouldnt have much respect for anyone that said that shiz,
Carb cleaner and brake clean disppear pretty damn quick on contact with air, if you start the engine to soon after spraying to much of it, it may rev up while burning the vapour,

[tsoob]

i just use fram oil filters and change them lots.

[Bling]

If there is one thing i've found, everyone is an expert on oil/filters and recommend different ones each time

Not a big cost to go genuine filters. Not sure what i'm even running at the moment, I think its ryco or something. Have used Fram, Genuine, Repco etc.

[Akane]

2) any pooling of oil is bad, a heathy turbo should be just a tiny film of grease if any.

[Boosted_162]

Kinda related, but my RB26 had some shit filter put on it when i bought it, used to be pretty slow to build up oil pressure. Got a genuine one on now and difference in building up pressure is crazy, same weight oil etc.

[cozmoid]

You can buy AFm cleaner that is very safe for all your sensors, tubes, turbo etc. No risk no worries. Also I have done a wee bit of experimenting with genuine thermostats and filters and they are far superior. If it's a hack or whatever then use anything but if you love you car and wanna keep it then go genuine. Just my experience. Also my fc3s used to get a little oil blow back through the breather into the intake tube which could get a little oily. I just got a oil catch can and closed off the intake hole. Fixed! Mid mileage engines will blow back a little oil. A cheap test is clean everything and use a pump bottle for a oil catch can so you can test whether this is the actual source of the oil.
Good luck, sounds like a sweet ride

[Stu-]

If there is one thing i've found, everyone is an expert on oil/filters and recommend different ones each time

Not a big cost to go genuine filters. Not sure what i'm even running at the moment, I think its ryco or something. Have used Fram, Genuine, Repco etc.

Agree. However cut a few different ones appart and you can see the difference in the amount of filtering material inside. Genuine are worth it in my opinion.

[YeMs]

If there is one thing i've found, everyone is an expert on oil/filters and recommend different ones each time

Not a big cost to go genuine filters. Not sure what i'm even running at the moment, I think its ryco or something. Have used Fram, Genuine, Repco etc.

Agree. However cut a few different ones appart and you can see the difference in the amount of filtering material inside. Genuine are worth it in my opinion.

AND not very expencive either. the air filters get pretty pricey though... specially when you price a TRD option for an altezza.. $250 thanx =S. Best thing is to find a friend who works there and get parts at cost .

I have cut a few filters open in my time and FRAM are definately my next option. the ryco filters are pretty questionable imho.

[evil_si]

[

I have cut a few filters open in my time and FRAM are definately my next option. the ryco filters are pretty questionable imho.

Spotted a fram vs wix display fiters the other day, the wix had twice as much filter media inside than the fram

[YeMs]

[

I have cut a few filters open in my time and FRAM are definately my next option. the ryco filters are pretty questionable imho.

Spotted a fram vs wix display fiters the other day, the wix had twice as much filter media inside than the fram

oh tru? interesting.. do you think that there is such a thing as 'too much' filter? causing too much restriction and not allowing enough pressure past..?

[MAGN1T]

2) How much oil in the turbo is too much? When I pulled the intake pipe off the turbo there was maybe 1/4 - 1/2 a teaspoon sitting in there + a very thin layer of caked oil spread through most of the intake pipe. Also a little bit in what I think is the PCV breather. Can't say I'm overly worried about it - there didn't seem to be any play in the turbo. Is it something I should keep an eye on? Should I be a bit easier on the ol' turbo?

.

Oil in the intake pipes comes from the breather due to too much blowby in the motor. Common in high milage turbo motors (worn rings) and common in modded turbo motors (broken ringlands due to detonation).

Steve

[Dell'Orto]

[

I have cut a few filters open in my time and FRAM are definately my next option. the ryco filters are pretty questionable imho.

Spotted a fram vs wix display fiters the other day, the wix had twice as much filter media inside than the fram

Will take a pxt of the filters we cut open at work...I wouldnt use a Fram filter on a tractor

[BZG Wagon]

Thanks for the tips guys. The motors just a fraction off 150kms so it sounds like the oil in the intake is normal. If it gets worse I'll look at a catch.

I'll also stick with the TGP filters. I was hoping someone would say 'oh yea they're just black ryco filters' or something.

One last question; I've heard several rumours that engine flush is just bottled kerosine and nothing else. Anyone know if this is true - given 1L of kerosene costs $7, vs. a 250ml bottle of engine flush for $15.

As a 'test' I flushed kerosene through my lawnmowers oil before I changed the oil in it. Seemed to work very, very effectively.

[Dell'Orto]

Pretty much, might have some white spirits or some other solvent in it. Not such a fan of engine flushes personally.

[BZG Wagon]

Not such a fan of engine flushes personally.

Why's that?

[sergei]

Engine flush is kerosene.
It messes with seals, and loosens sludge (if engine is sludged) to a point where it blocks strainer.

[Mr Revhead]

[

I have cut a few filters open in my time and FRAM are definately my next option. the ryco filters are pretty questionable imho.

Spotted a fram vs wix display fiters the other day, the wix had twice as much filter media inside than the fram

I've seen Fram vs Donaldson and yeah, the fram was a bit lacking...

[sark.inc]

Most good filters will filter around 30ish microns, so i really can't see a toyota filter vs a ryco or (insert brand here) filter making the oil look more golden. I would say it comes down to the quality of oil you used.


btw "clean" oil is not normally good as imo it means the oil is not doing part of it's job.

p.s i would never use a FRAM btw.

[phoenix]

Engine flush is kerosene.
It messes with seals, and loosens sludge (if engine is sludged) to a point where it blocks strainer.

Yep it's not uncommon for an engine with moderate kms to sprout leaks after using engine flush.