Toyspeed.org.nz Message Board

by **amdeman** » Sat Jun 25, 2011 4:33 pm

With so many different 4A varieties which is the easiest to modify with the most effective, simplest, easy to source parts or workshop-friendly mods?
Are there any shortfalls with the later 20V vs the 16V?
More scope with the older models, or are the later ones already effectively somewhat modded?

by **Grrrrrrr!** » Sat Jun 25, 2011 4:46 pm

depends what path you want to go down really.

if it more power for cheap then starting with a 4AGZE is possibly the best route, add manifold,turbo and ecu, done.

High revving NA power.. hmmm. both 16v and 20v have good parts supplies these days.

It also depends what you want to stick it in. FWD or RWD?

by **amdeman** » Sat Jun 25, 2011 4:58 pm

Grrrrrrr! wrote:depends what path you want to go down really.

if it more power for cheap then starting with a 4AGZE is possibly the best route, add manifold,turbo and ecu, done.

High revving NA power.. hmmm. both 16v and 20v have good parts supplies these days.

It also depends what you want to stick it in. FWD or RWD?

Front wheel drive.
Done the ZE thing before; too much altering required to make it turbo, after a simple install.
High revving, though with driveable useable torque.

by **RedMist** » Sat Jun 25, 2011 5:03 pm

You haven't described your application or your budget, and I don't know what you're talking of with "workshop friendly mods". If you're talking about reducing power by using an aftermarket intake manifold, filter, then any of the 4a's will loose power through "workshop friendly mods"

20 valve is the cheapest power stock. Also the most costly to get big power from.
ZE will give you the most power with FI.
Smallport will give you the most power NA (with a tonne of development dollars thrown it's way).

by **amdeman** » Sat Jun 25, 2011 5:16 pm

RedMist wrote:You haven't described your application or your budget, and I don't know what you're talking of with "workshop friendly mods". If you're talking about reducing power by using an aftermarket intake manifold, filter, then any of the 4a's will loose power through "workshop friendly mods"

20 valve is the cheapest power stock. Also the most costly to get big power from.
ZE will give you the most power with FI.
Smallport will give you the most power NA (with a tonne of development dollars thrown it's way).

'Workshop friendly' is more about something that doesn't require a lot of work, like a specialist for the work.
What's involved in the small port, or is it easier to get say a silver or black top and give it a clean up and throw it in the hole?

by **Lloyd** » Sat Jun 25, 2011 5:46 pm

Just go smallport, easist option and a nicer engine if you're wanting driveability anyway

by **amdeman** » Sat Jun 25, 2011 5:51 pm

Lloyd wrote:Just go smallport, easist option and a nicer engine if you're wanting driveability anyway

Cheers.

What is required to make the smallport more driveable?
Quads fit on easy enough?
Anything else help with the clean up?

by **rollaholic** » Sat Jun 25, 2011 6:00 pm

quads dont fit at all, require work and money and an ECU to run properly, nevermind actual power gains.

sweet sound though.

standard blacktop is cool, or standard smallport. dollars per HP gained turbo is the only way.

20v exhaust manifold can be made to fit with minor alterations, looks better at least.

any meaningful increase of power in a small displacement NA engine typically means big cams, lots of compression and not much action below 6k rpm. stick with standard for 'driveability' and reliability.

by **amdeman** » Sat Jun 25, 2011 6:13 pm

rollaholic wrote:quads dont fit at all, require work and money and an ECU to run properly, nevermind actual power gains.

sweet sound though.

standard blacktop is cool, or standard smallport. dollars per HP gained turbo is the only way.

20v exhaust manifold can be made to fit with minor alterations, looks better at least.

any meaningful increase of power in a small displacement NA engine typically means big cams, lots of compression and not much action below 6k rpm. stick with standard for 'driveability' and reliability.

What about a 3SGE into an AE101?

by **TRDWGN** » Sat Jun 25, 2011 6:45 pm

the easiest option is to buy a silvertop donor car, find a tidy silvertop and you have a relatively simple drop in solution. Remember some of the issues you had on the wagon were because it was ae92 into ae101, if you keep it all 101 it will be almost plug n play

3sge would be cool but 2zzge would be better

And arguably a bit easier

by **amdeman** » Sat Jun 25, 2011 6:50 pm

TRDWGN wrote:the easiest option is to buy a silvertop donor car, find a tidy silvertop and you have a relatively simple drop in solution. Remember some of the issues you had on the wagon were because it was ae92 into ae101, if you keep it all 101 it will be almost plug n play

3sge would be cool but 2zzge would be better And arguably a bit easier

Certainly remember those issues, and the coin to sort it.

Great idea about the donor car.

Where would the easiest place to find a 2zzge, which car did they come in?

by **iOnic** » Sat Jun 25, 2011 6:52 pm

Smallport is probably the best compromise of ease and drivability. But as said before it really comes down to what you actually want out of it. I dont think fitting an engine out of something else altogether fits in your definition of workshop friendly IMO. A 3S or 2ZZ isnt exactly a bolt on

by **amdeman** » Sat Jun 25, 2011 6:58 pm

iOnic wrote:Smallport is probably the best compromise of ease and drivability. But as said before it really comes down to what you actually want out of it. I dont think fitting an engine out of something else altogether fits in your definition of workshop friendly IMO. A 3S or 2ZZ isnt exactly a bolt on

Yeah, totally agreeing with you.
How much difference would a simple bolt in 20V, blacktop over a 4afe?

by **Brawler** » Sat Jun 25, 2011 7:12 pm

This is how its done:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zPLNJDTg ... re=related

carbs FTW

by **amdeman** » Sat Jun 25, 2011 7:20 pm

Brawler wrote:This is how its done:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zPLNJDTg ... re=related

carbs FTW

Nice!

Who's is that?

Website · by **Bling** » Sat Jun 25, 2011 8:13 pm

The guy who posted that video owns it.

Everything you're asking has been covered many many times. If you can't be bothered having a search around for the information I can't see any engine swap getting off the ground :lol:

by **tsoob** » Sat Jun 25, 2011 8:34 pm

ill sell you all the 16v bolt up bits to make a big port turbo... all you need is a 4agze and an ecu.

by **QikStarlie** » Sat Jun 25, 2011 8:41 pm

+1 for 16v 4age, preferably smallport. then turbo it when want more power. run low boost & good tuning. then no need for ze pistons. will be nice and responsive with high compression

also carbs, yuck. click kp60 link in my sig for na smallport action

by **TRDWGN** » Sat Jun 25, 2011 8:51 pm

@ BZG..... Just an fyi, this guy did one of the cleanest 4agze into 101 wagons you will ever find right down to factory twin exhaust, don't be too quick writing him off

Std st into a 4afe ae101 is the easiest option available

by **amdeman** » Sun Jun 26, 2011 3:08 am

BZG|Bling wrote:The guy who posted that video owns it.

Everything you're asking has been covered many many times. If you can't be bothered having a search around for the information I can't see any engine swap getting off the ground

It's called research, best done BEFORE setting out.
The reason for asking those that know, which is called local real world experience.

Thank you for your encouragement, and positive comments though.

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