Top Mount secondary Radiator

[~SlideWays~]

Just throwing this idea out there for ideas/prompt shooting down.

My AE92 GTZ Turbo runs a half width alloy radiator. It is twice as thick as a standard full width radiator but obviously doesn't have the same frontal surface area.

The reason I run a half size one is because I designed the turbo outlet to point straight forwards which cut down on the I/C pipe length. It spools very well so I'd like to keep it that way.

On the track the temp would always start rising after 5 laps or so. Since then I have added an oil cooler but haven't tested on the track.

Recently I was thinking about the idea of a small secondary radiator mounted where the factory top mount I/C used to be. The hoses would be Tee'd into the heater lines on the firewall and it would take advantage of the airflow from the GTZ bonnet scoop (which currently does nothing).

Pro's:
- Increased water cooling capacity.
- Easily removable.

Con's:
- Possible air locks.
- finding a radiator small enough.
- Extra complication / more things to go wrong.

Second question would be, how successful would using an oil cooler core be? Failing that, a motorbike radiator is the next best option.

[wde_bdy]

Maybe look for a heat exchanger from a water to air setup? Subaru/GT4 setup or similar would be more suitable than an oil cooler. Could also look at motorbike radiators.

Callum

[RomanV]

Small secondary ratiator... Turn the heater on!

[~SlideWays~]

Small secondary ratiator... Turn the heater on!

Lol yeah but you are generally asked to keep windows up so I'd be driving an oven.

[~SlideWays~]

Maybe look for a heat exchanger from a water to air setup? Subaru/GT4 setup or similar would be more suitable than an oil cooler. Could also look at motorbike radiators.

Callum

The problem I've found with any small radiator is they have the in and outlets in the wrong place, mvoing and welding them is an option though.

Also water injection. Hmmm.

[Mr Revhead]

Just askng, but have you got ducts/blanking plates around the rad to make sure all air entering the front actually goes through it and not around/over it?

[Leon]

Is it a family thing to have cars that ought not be turbo'd, have turbo's fitted, and overheat?



If so, that'd be the strangest dna strand ever.

[Adoom]

Is it a family thing to have cars that ought not be turbo'd, have turbo's fitted, and overheat?



If so, that'd be the strangest dna strand ever.

HEY! Mine overheats, and it is supposed to have a turbo!!!! Well, the engine is, not the car

[~SlideWays~]

Just askng, but have you got ducts/blanking plates around the rad to make sure all air entering the front actually goes through it and not around/over it?

I've blanked off the empty space with sheet metal as best I can but its not air tight. I do plan on making something to make a high pressure zone in front of the radiator but there is very limited space. So I'm just thinking of more options.

[~SlideWays~]

Is it a family thing to have cars that ought not be turbo'd, have turbo's fitted, and overheat?



If so, that'd be the strangest dna strand ever.

Does anyone else in your family go through multiple cars like they're a hot potatoe?

[Mr Revhead]

Good stuff. On some cars just removing the top duct can be enough to create issues!

[Leon]

Does anyone else in your family go through multiple cars like they're a hot potatoe?

Not at this stage, as my half brother is only about 10, and my half sister is about 2.5. So, a bit young to be owning cars. Give it time.

[~SlideWays~]

Does anyone else in your family go through multiple cars like they're a hot potatoe?

Not at this stage, as my half brother is only about 10, and my half sister is about 2.5. So, a bit young to be owning cars. Give it time.

They'll be looking for awesome rare classic's such as AE92's in old barns by then no doubt.

[tim_blair]

i have noticed the same problem with my old turbo cars that i built that they would get very hot when sitting at lights and driving around in slow traffic

so my solution was..... an auxillary radiator

i have used heater cores for my 3sge turbo, 4age turbo, and zxr400 turbo

and they work really well

simply remove one from almost any car at pickapart try find one with 1/2 the interiour already removed

braise a couple of 1/2 inch bsp thread fitting on the in and outlets,

go to you local mitre10 plumbing section and buy the braided hose they sell (these can easily handle the heat) usualy $10-50 depending on length

plumb it all together mount your auxilary radiator and away you go

[~SlideWays~]

I've never had it get hot anywhere but the race track, mainly because of constant high revs lap after lap, making it hard to test i.e. it never got hot with normal driving. But good idea with the heater core.

[tim_blair]

yea bro trust me go with the heater core there cheap as and easy and realiable
if its still hot under race conditions put a fan on it

[Dell'Orto]

Small secondary ratiator... Turn the heater on!

Lol yeah but you are generally asked to keep windows up so I'd be driving an oven.

Turn your old sunroof into a reverse scoop - profit?

[gepsk8]

best test as is at moment, with external oil cooler.
how old is radiator? could blocked up, maybe from new. alloy one tend have small fins to start with.
has your turbo got beanie on turbo, with heat warp on headers & down pipe pass sump?
have you go any pictures of set up?
have you tied divided plate between radiator location and turbo?
stop heat transferring to radiator (alloy radiators take ages cool down once they get hot)
if still have problems vent hole in bonnet behind radiator to let hot air out faster

[~SlideWays~]

Small secondary ratiator... Turn the heater on!

Lol yeah but you are generally asked to keep windows up so I'd be driving an oven.

Turn your old sunroof into a reverse scoop - profit?

ingenius!

[~SlideWays~]

best test as is at moment, with external oil cooler.
how old is radiator? could blocked up, maybe from new. alloy one tend have small fins to start with.
has your turbo got beanie on turbo, with heat warp on headers & down pipe pass sump?
have you go any pictures of set up?
have you tied divided plate between radiator location and turbo?
stop heat transferring to radiator (alloy radiators take ages cool down once they get hot)
if still have problems vent hole in bonnet behind radiator to let hot air out faster

Yes, I really should test it with the oil cooler. This means a 4hr round trip on a trailer to Manfeild though because it has been sitting in the the garage for 2 years after I put the project on hold.

No beanie, but did have some heat wrap left over so wrapped the exhaust housing, downpipe and external plumbing as an experiment. Which is also untested.

Radiator was brand new, not sure what you mean by 'divided' plate?


Photo's



On the right hand side of this photo you can see the sheet metal used to block the gap and stop air from bypassing the radiator. You can see the oil cooler on the bottom right with a cut out in the sheet metal.