Cooling 20V AE86

Logan · Post by **Logan** » Thu Jul 28, 2011 4:33 pm

This link from facebook might work.

R.U.F · Post by **R.U.F** » Mon Aug 01, 2011 2:09 pm

Hi Logan

Is there a link or more detail available about this set up?

Logan · Post by **Logan** » Mon Aug 01, 2011 5:31 pm

no I havent written anything up. Was developed between myself and a mate for his ae86 racecar. Only made a one off, but seemed to work mint.

It uses the silvertop thermostat and outlet housing,
It can route the heaters in either direction.
It uses the factory sensors.
It routes the water in factory direction, such that cool water is through intake side of head.
Plenty of room to firewall in the ae86.
Put hoses on intake side so can use factory radiator
needs a little blanking on outlet by exhaust.

Used in conjunction with a front dizzy cap mount that mate made up from bits in his shed, i.e left the guts of the dizzy at the back (designed a cap for it, but never bothered making it). and put the dizzy cap at the front with some adaptors and plates and what not.

due to being a one off it wasnt cheap, but works out really nicely and looks factory.

Im sure you would like to know how much it cost, but I would rather know how much people think its worth to determine if its worth getting a basic kit made (i.e. not all clamps etc etc, but the major components at least)

Cheers

R.U.F · Post by **R.U.F** » Tue Aug 02, 2011 10:29 am

Well the back plate alone I'd happily pay $200 for with the thermo housing and plate to hold it in.

lowseven · Post by **lowseven** » Tue Aug 02, 2011 9:00 pm

this interests me... i just setup a 20v in rwd mode, ill list what i used. is there any real issues with running 20v with ae86 thermostat/water pump setup etc? i had alook at water flow etc i couldnt see any draw backs. water still flows everwhere so should cool allgood regardless of head flow direction??

so far cost me

700 - engine
70 - new toyota water pump - comes with back half/gaskets etc
free- 25mm alloy block for rear bypass, a couple of random alloy pipes to make water neck/bypass & shit i had lying round - ae86 alt setup & pulley, 3au pipe off back of thermo housing for heater outlet.

the only gay shit is where the dissy pokes out the back i have caped it off to use just the dissy sensors but its still gonna hit the LH h-core outlet/hose (ae70) & a 10mm plate under the gb mount is a waste of time also.

i can see why people front mount/side mount or chop the firewall, but i think i can use a honda or nissan heater core with afew mods or flip the heater core and run the pipes from the outher side (compartment side)and re run lines pipes around the front.

its nice to have a heater, what have you guys done :?:

matt dunn · Post by **matt dunn** » Tue Aug 02, 2011 10:11 pm

lowseven wrote: water still flows everwhere so should cool allgood regardless of head flow direction??

In a standard 20V the water from the radiator flows in the back of the head, then right along the intake ports and out at the front of the head to the water pump, making the intake ports the coldest part of the engine.

If you add in the AE86 pump etc etc,
you are making the intake ports the hotest part of the engine.

Sam-Q · Post by **Sam-Q** » Wed Aug 03, 2011 3:05 am

matt dunn wrote:
lowseven wrote: water still flows everwhere so should cool allgood regardless of head flow direction??

In a standard 20V the water from the radiator flows in the back of the head, then right along the intake ports and out at the front of the head to the water pump, making the intake ports the coldest part of the engine.

If you add in the AE86 pump etc etc,
you are making the intake ports the hotest part of the engine.

the difference is only to about for 50mm of the intake ports and I have seen on a dyno to have no real effect. I also don't say that because I sell kits that use the converted method because I am pretty blunt about what's good and what's not.

Looks well made logan but would it of been easier to just have the existing outlet next to the extractors used? Also sorry if I asked before but what's your reasoning in doing it this way?

Sam-Q · Post by **Sam-Q** » Wed Aug 03, 2011 3:08 am

lowseven wrote:this interests me... i just setup a 20v in rwd mode, ill list what i used. is there any real issues with running 20v with ae86 thermostat/water pump setup etc? i had alook at water flow etc i couldnt see any draw backs. water still flows everwhere so should cool allgood regardless of head flow direction??

so far cost me

700 - engine
70 - new toyota water pump - comes with back half/gaskets etc
free- 25mm alloy block for rear bypass, a couple of random alloy pipes to make water neck/bypass & shit i had lying round - ae86 alt setup & pulley, 3au pipe off back of thermo housing for heater outlet.

the only gay shit is where the dissy pokes out the back i have caped it off to use just the dissy sensors but its still gonna hit the LH h-core outlet/hose (ae70) & a 10mm plate under the gb mount is a waste of time also.

i can see why people front mount/side mount or chop the firewall, but i think i can use a honda or nissan heater core with afew mods or flip the heater core and run the pipes from the outher side (compartment side)and re run lines pipes around the front.

its nice to have a heater, what have you guys done

no, if your using the rwd alternator mount then no drawbacks. Using the original heater core is no problem, just hook up the hose off your heater flow control tap straight into that bypass plate oyu made and your all set. Also a 10mm spacer between the trans mount and the trans gives you a few mm which helps.

lowseven · Post by **lowseven** » Wed Aug 03, 2011 3:34 pm

hey sam i put a 10mm spacer in there but unfortunately afew mm wont help in this case, i may just space back my heater box for now 10/15mm to get some more room for L/H hose

& thanks for the info matt ill put my infra red thermometer on it once ive got it up and running maybe compare it to a factory ae111 if i can be f%#$

Sam-Q · Post by **Sam-Q** » Wed Aug 03, 2011 6:12 pm

you shouldn't have a problem though, do you have a picture of the cap your using?

lowseven · Post by **lowseven** » Wed Aug 03, 2011 7:22 pm

yeah heres a couple pics

Sam-Q · Post by **Sam-Q** » Thu Aug 04, 2011 12:03 am

perhaps the cap is bulkier than it needs to be, any idea how far away from the trigger the inside of the cap is and how thick it is?

lowseven · Post by **lowseven** » Thu Aug 04, 2011 5:44 pm

the caps 32mm in height & its 28mm from the firewall

Sam-Q · Post by **Sam-Q** » Fri Aug 05, 2011 3:54 am

if I remember I will measure mine and then we can see if your cap is the problem

grippa · Post by **grippa** » Mon Aug 08, 2011 9:40 pm

Sam-Q wrote:if I remember I will measure mine and then we can see if your cap is the problem

I have one of your caps and have spaced the gearbox and it is still to tight

Sam-Q · Post by **Sam-Q** » Mon Aug 08, 2011 10:08 pm

that's odd, did you use cable/zip ties for the heater hoses to the metal lines on the firewall/bulkhead? because mine used to only just touch without the spacer. After the spacer there was a clear gap between them.