Toyspeed.org.nz Message Board

by **Maximum** » Wed Sep 14, 2011 9:41 pm

I'm nearly finished my engine transplant of a blacktop 4age into my mr2 and I need to get coolant through the system.

I have put as much in as I can but since there is no air bleeder on the blacktop thermostat, I can't bleed it like the old bluetop system.

The front fan comes on, and the temp gauge is sitting about right. However there is no heat coming through the heater, and everytime I turn the engine off and take off the filler cap, there is a gurgling noise as air comes out...

Is there someone that's done this conversion that can offer some tips?

Cheers

by **Dragger_Dan** » Wed Sep 14, 2011 10:45 pm

Have you bled the air from the air bleed at the top of the radiator, and the one on the firewall connected to the heater piping?

by **Maximum** » Wed Sep 14, 2011 10:47 pm

Yes, I've done that.
The heater one doesn't have coolant coming up the bleeder tube like the manual says. I might give it another go tomorrow with the back of the car uphill a little bit.

by **Malcolm** » Thu Sep 15, 2011 12:43 am

Doesn't really help you with your problem, but are you the guy I've been talking to about getting an N1 connector from?

by **levinguy** » Thu Sep 15, 2011 3:22 am

jack the back of the car up as high as you can get it and leave it for a week or so. if worse comes to worse... it works!!

by **rollaholic** » Thu Sep 15, 2011 8:05 am

you can buy those easy flush kits from repco and the like, they come with a T piece that has a capped section on it, you put that into one of your heater hoses (as high as possible obviously) and it gives you an easy way to pour water into the hot side of the system - as well as getting those pesky air pockets out.

has everything been flushed out? when the rad fan comes on, is it blowing warm or cool? does it switch off after a few seconds, or is it blowing cool and running non stop? are both top and bottom hoses the same temperature to touch? (they should be good and hot if the fan is on) this will give you an indication on thermostat function.

no hot air out of the heater either means there is no water in there, or its not circulating.

by **gleem** » Thu Sep 15, 2011 8:32 am

i blew my head gasket on my bt 4age with this problem, without driving it!

by **Maximum** » Thu Sep 15, 2011 10:12 am

Everything has been flushed out; it's been bone dry for a couple of years

The radiator fan came on, and stayed on. I left it for about 5 minutes, then turned the car off because I didn't think any warm water was being circulated, and didn't want the engine to overheat...!
Neither of the pipes up the front felt warm.

I'll back the car up the driveway so that it's on an angle, and see if that helps. If not, I might get one of those repco kits and see if that sorts things out.

Doesn't really help you with your problem, but are you the guy I've been talking to about getting an N1 connector from?

Yes! I'll send you an email shortly; this weekend will probably be fine for me.

by **CelicaGT8** » Thu Sep 15, 2011 5:58 pm

Levinguy did a silvertop into an aw11
give him a go, hes cracker

by **Maximum** » Thu Sep 15, 2011 8:00 pm

I had another go at it tonight - I think it's okay now.

I ran it with the radiator cap off and I could see a load of air bubbles coming out. Eventually, the thermostat opened and I could feel the pipe on the other side of it go hot.

Both fans at the front are on all the time though, so I'll need to sort that out. Probably a wiring thing...

by **matt dunn** » Thu Sep 15, 2011 9:24 pm

I have quite a bit of trouble bleeding my BT even though it's not an MR2.

I found that unless I remove the temp sensor from the thermostat housing and fill the radiator till you get a good flow out there,
it wil not bleed.

Maybe try that as I think the thermostat doesn't get water to the engine side of it properly and so doesn't open.

Not too hard to do and will be obvious if you remove the sender with the radiator cap off weather you get air or water out the hole.

by **Dragger_Dan** » Thu Sep 15, 2011 9:38 pm

Maximum wrote:Both fans at the front are on all the time though, so I'll need to sort that out. Probably a wiring thing...

If you've removed the air conditioning condensor/regulator thingamajig from the frunk you need to connect the two wires on the plug that connected to the AC.

by **CXGPWR** » Fri Sep 16, 2011 8:35 am

There is a bit of a trick to bleading these, i have done several and never had any problems, however it would take about half an hour to explain, even when you think you have it right i can probably garnetee you still will have air in the system.
Im in auckland and im happy to pop round and show you the way i have found to give the best results, takes the least time, and doesnt do any damage. Car needs to be cold though

by **Maximum** » Fri Sep 16, 2011 10:14 am

Thanks CXGPWR - I might take you up on that.
I'm getting the exhaust fitted next week, so it'll have to be some time after then.

I'll join those plugs for the air con fan too, so that the second fan isn't running all the time.

The other thing I need to sort out is why the first fan is on all the time. Something to do this weekend...

by **touge_ae101** » Fri Sep 16, 2011 10:44 am

bleeding blacktops is dead easy with a trick john (CXGPWR) told me, just pull the top heater hose off and run the car for a few minutes with radiator cap off. works 100% of the time in about 2minutes.

by **Maximum** » Fri Sep 16, 2011 10:58 am

bleeding blacktops is dead easy

Sounds like it would be, if it wasn't in an mr2....

by **sergei** » Fri Sep 16, 2011 1:24 pm

Perhaps what you need is to make a T connector on the highest point on hoses that go through to radiator with a tap to let air out?

by **LEAKER** » Fri Sep 16, 2011 2:01 pm

Maximum wrote:.

I'll join those plugs for the air con fan too, so that the second fan isn't running all the time.

The other thing I need to sort out is why the first fan is on all the time. Something to do this weekend...

Joining the plug wiring will stop the fans that are triggered from the coolant temp. Don't ask me why, someone else can explain why I'm sure but I had to do it on my gt4 when I removed the a/c. They're linked somehow. Presumably through the ecu.

by **Maximum** » Fri Sep 16, 2011 2:31 pm

Thanks - sounds promising.
I do have a wire that's not joined yet which I'm 99% sure is for the engine bay fan. It may be that it also needs to be joined before the cooling fan circuit works correctly.

by **sergei** » Fri Sep 16, 2011 2:33 pm

LEAKER wrote:
Maximum wrote:.

I'll join those plugs for the air con fan too, so that the second fan isn't running all the time.

The other thing I need to sort out is why the first fan is on all the time. Something to do this weekend...

Joining the plug wiring will stop the fans that are triggered from the coolant temp. Don't ask me why, someone else can explain why I'm sure but I had to do it on my gt4 when I removed the a/c. They're linked somehow. Presumably through the ecu.

They are in series with fan thermo switch, with purpose of turning on fans when there is pressure in that A/C line.

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blacktop 4age in aw11 mr2; filling the coolant

blacktop 4age in aw11 mr2; filling the coolant

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