Pulsar hard to start

[RS13]

Hi guys,

Having a bit of trouble with the missus's car, lately it has been getting harder to start. Takes 3-5 seconds of cranking to fire regardless of temperature, once running it idles/revs out perfectly. Does blow a little black when starting up from cold, but when warm its' fine, returns around 7.6l/100km on average so I don't think it's overfuelling.

I replaced a whole lot of cracked vacuum hoses around the carb (its' an N14 Pulsar with GA15DS twincam carb), runs much smoother but still takes a while to start, can't see any other vacuum leaks or anything.

Any ideas?

[iOnic]

Ignition system alright?

[Jonno2002]

does it make any difference if you pump the pedal a few times before starting it ? carbed cars tend to need a few pumps

[whynot]

if i remember those ga carbied motors have some sort of heated bi metallic strip on the carb which is for temperature compensation/idle on start up. it is adjustable from memory but that was a good while back so i may be mistaken.

[RS13]

does it make any difference if you pump the pedal a few times before starting it ? carbed cars tend to need a few pumps

Yeah, I'm familiar with that, however I've tried everything. Normally takes a pump or two on a frosty morning (otherwise you just sit there cranking!).

if i remember those ga carbied motors have some sort of heated bi metallic strip on the carb which is for temperature compensation/idle on start up. it is adjustable from memory but that was a good while back so i may be mistaken.

I was hoping someone might mention some random little thing like this! lol thanks man. I'll have a closer look at the carb tomorrow.

Would timing have much effect on the cranking? It runs perfectly otherwise which rules that out possibly?

[RS13]

Ignition system alright?

I'm pretty sure it is? I'd imagine I'd be getting other symptoms other than the hard starting?

[Grrrrrrr!]

Battery voltage is low while cranking, so weak ignition can show up then, particularly with points type ignitions.

[iOnic]

^ What he said. During cranking, the starter motor is drawing huge power so there's less juice available to send spark through worn dizzy cap/rotor/leads/plugs. If it hasn't got the power to jump the gap or is very weak, you're gonna have trouble getting it going. Once it finally starts it's good as gold as the starter is no longer drawing current and the alternator has taken over so you have good voltage. Not saying that's your problem but wouldn't hurt to have a look?

Could always try hooking up a battery in a running car as though you were jump starting and see if having ~14V in the system during cranking makes it start any easier. That could eliminate electrics/ignition or narrow down your search.

Good luck either way

[Leon]

if you try to crash start it, is it still a bitch to start (which would suggest carb) or does it fire straight away and run ok (which would suggest electrical), or does it fire up straight away but want to stall (which still suggests carb to me).

[allencr]

Would timing have much effect on the cranking? It runs perfectly otherwise which rules that out possibly?

Yes, zero effect.
What's the compression?
Running any aftermarket accessories or anything off of a convenient place like the coil?
Tried different methods like 1 or 3 pumps, holding the throttle down a little, a lot or not at all?
Checked the auto choke plate for completely closed when cold & completely open when warm, with enough spring tension/pre-load in those positions to be unaffected from the air flow?
Spark nice fat & blue or a thin yellow zap? Close up the gap if it's yellow & try'er out.

[RS13]

if you try to crash start it, is it still a bitch to start (which would suggest carb) or does it fire straight away and run ok (which would suggest electrical), or does it fire up straight away but want to stall (which still suggests carb to me).

Unfortunately its' auto! Crash start not an option.

I've just pulled the ignition system apart, cleaned everything up as there was a lot of crap buildup inside the dizzy cap, on the contacts etc. Found the plug gaps to be all over 1.2mm so I gapped them to the NGK spec of 0.9mm. Seems to start much better now, only took 1-2 seconds to start from cold so I'll get it warm and try again.

[RS13]

Would timing have much effect on the cranking? It runs perfectly otherwise which rules that out possibly?

Yes, zero effect.
What's the compression?
Running any aftermarket accessories or anything off of a convenient place like the coil?
Tried different methods like 1 or 3 pumps, holding the throttle down a little, a lot or not at all?
Checked the auto choke plate for completely closed when cold & completely open when warm, with enough spring tension/pre-load in those positions to be unaffected from the air flow?
Spark nice fat & blue or a thin yellow zap? Close up the gap if it's yellow & try'er out.

Bog standard everything, compression is fine. I've tried everything from no pumps to several pumps to holding it down, nothing seems to get it starting any quicker. Carb looks fine visually. I've been reading about the electronic carb in these things, there is a whole heap that can go wrong with them and they aren't too adjustable so I'm hoping that its' not that as its' cheaper to replace than repair a sensor!

[Leon]

Pick a Part grab one, check to see if that works better.

[RedMist]

Would timing have much effect on the cranking? It runs perfectly otherwise which rules that out possibly?

.

I had a 2k that I stretched the timing chain on or had a sticky tensioner. The tensioner didn't take up the slack until warm. It never started on cold mornings. Either we would wait for the day to warm up or bump start it (which was a pain).

[rollaholic]

isint a DS actually single point injection? which is known to give issues. as i recall whatever goes bang inside can be repaired, but its not particularly cheap.

if the plug gaps were wrong its prob cos they have worn away and need replacing.

[RS13]

isint a DS actually single point injection? which is known to give issues. as i recall whatever goes bang inside can be repaired, but its not particularly cheap.

if the plug gaps were wrong its prob cos they have worn away and need replacing.

No, its' carb and no, they've got very little wear. Starts better 50% of the time, still a pain to start occasionally when hot. Waiting for a cheap carb to come up, just gonna put up with it in the meantime.

[crispy'86]

Might sound silly but when it's warm is there enough fuel in the bowl? Wonder if there's a bit of crap in the fuel filter or crap in some part of the fuel line slowing down the flow of fuel to the carb.
I know you said it only plays up when it's hot but just another thing just thought of throwing out there