Pulling out a 3sgte from sw20?

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Pulling out a 3sgte from sw20?

Postby headshotnz » Sun Feb 05, 2012 4:23 pm

Hey guys,

Hopefully if theres enough room at my work next weekend ill be pulling my engine out of the sw20.

Ill be dropping it out the bottom as i have access to a hoist :)

The question i would like answered though, Id like a quick rough list in whats needs taking off from the engine in order to remove it.

Just so i can guestamate a time of how long ill need the workshop.

Hopefully ill be able to put my new headgasket and head studs on in the same day and put the engine back in.

Also is there any thing else i should replace while im at it,

So far list follows:

Spark plugs and oil filter.

Im not completely worried about this engine, as im only getting it working so i can drive it round and get a wof etc while be new engine is being built
:D

Cheers guys, James
Current: UCF20 NZ New LS400,

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Postby Al » Sun Feb 05, 2012 4:32 pm

If you haven't done it before around four hours and it should be on the deck.

Its usually takes less time to put the engine back than taking it out for some reason :lol:

Spark plugs and oil filter? I can do both of those in 20 minutes with the motor in place, they are possibly the easiest jobs in a sw20.

Ok so you are taking the head off. So you may as well do cambelt, waterpump, thermostat, tensioner, idlers, cam shaft seals, crankshaft seal, valve cover gasket, alt belt, a/c belt.
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Postby headshotnz » Sun Feb 05, 2012 4:41 pm

Al wrote:If you haven't done it before around four hours and it should be on the deck.

Its usually takes less time to put the engine back than taking it out for some reason :lol:

Spark plugs and oil filter? I can do both of those in 20 minutes with the motor in place, they are possibly the easiest jobs in a sw20.

Ok so you are taking the head off. So you may as well do cambelt, waterpump, thermostat, tensioner, idlers, cam shaft seals, crankshaft seal, valve cover gasket, alt belt, a/c belt.


Ta!

I did help put an engine back into a aw11 yesterday, which was helpfull to get a fair idea.

What were you meaning it takes 20 minutes for spark plugs and oil?

I was just meaning there all ready on the list to replace.

Ill get a new cambelt, but considering im a full time student, and building a new engine which is only really 2-3 months away im not willing to buy a cambelt kit for this engine.

A list of what needs to be undone from the engine from some one who has removed one before would be awesome (i.e. engine mounts ) :lol:
Current: UCF20 NZ New LS400,

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Previous: Ae101 trueno (S/S), ST185 Group A, Accord with adjustables and H22a certed. SW20 (ct20b, blitz ecu) Uzz30, ae101 s/s 20v c56(-04c;) ) lsd, ae100 beast 5afe(for maximum horsepowers)
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Postby Grrrrrrr! » Sun Feb 05, 2012 5:07 pm

Reality: A nasty hallucination that is caused by excess blood in the alcohol stream.
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Postby kim0663 » Sun Feb 05, 2012 10:42 pm

- remove all intake stuff up to the upper 90degree bend off the turbo (just enough to not have anything catch on something.
- Coolant lines and heater pipe hoses. Take off the heater pipes from the engine side, it's much easier. It looks harder but you can be rough with it and not worry about damaging pipes.
- Take off loom from the fuse box and the positive terminal which is connected by 2x 10mm bolts
- Unplug the injector resistor pack/ignitor/coil which are on rear firewall
- Unbolt off the map sensor (easier than unplugging it) 1x 10mm
- Vacuum hose off the brake booster line
- Unbolt air con compressor from block if you still have it and intend on keeping it, 4x long as hell bolts
- Unclip shifter cables from gearbox
- unbolt positive wires off starter motor
- unbolt fuel line off fuel filter from top
- unbolt earth cable off gearbox
-clutch slave cylinder unbolt off

Then the obvious like exhaust/intercooler .

I'm ripping out an engine tomorrow as well! and It'll take more than 4 hours if it's your first time i reckon. I would be inclined to think 6 or 7 hours.

I may have missed something as this is off my head and last time i did this was like 3 years ago...
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Postby kim0663 » Sun Feb 05, 2012 10:59 pm

I had a read of the link above.

Up till page 5 was okay, from then onwards, it's like the noob tutorial.

Don't unbolt any of the suspension crap. Just unbolt the 3x 14mm nuts at the top of the struts and off the hub just in case and unbolt the castor rod off the chassis.

You drop the subframe/engine/hubs as one piece, not bit by bit. If you know what you're doing, plus access to a hoist is awesome, it might even be possible to drop the damn thing in 30 minutes as long as nothing goes wrong.

found an old pic i had.

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Last edited by kim0663 on Sun Feb 05, 2012 11:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Bling » Sun Feb 05, 2012 11:01 pm

Make sure you're wearing your safety jandals as per pic too. Easy to miss such a crucial step out!
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Postby kim0663 » Sun Feb 05, 2012 11:01 pm

BZG|Bling wrote:Make sure you're wearing your safety jandals as per pic too. Easy to miss such a crucial step out!


:lol:
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Postby headshotnz » Mon Feb 06, 2012 7:34 am

Thanks kim! exactly what i needed :)

Let you all know how the progress goes!

James
Current: UCF20 NZ New LS400,

(Current project) Gen II SW20 Turbo (MR2 v0.5Beta currently in the works)

Previous: Ae101 trueno (S/S), ST185 Group A, Accord with adjustables and H22a certed. SW20 (ct20b, blitz ecu) Uzz30, ae101 s/s 20v c56(-04c;) ) lsd, ae100 beast 5afe(for maximum horsepowers)
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Postby RomanV » Mon Feb 06, 2012 8:52 am

It usually takes me about 3 days to pull an mr2 motor out, and back in.

I think the people above are forgetting to include time spent swearing, smoko breaks, getting distracted, looking for tools, or tending to smashed fingers or knuckles.
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Postby Akane » Mon Feb 06, 2012 10:48 am

takes me 3 years.

Buy engine, leave it outside in the rain for 2 years and 11 months.
Forced to move house, ask chalkie to give me a hand and slot the damn thing in within a day.
No "stance", no "hellaflush", none of that bullshit. Nothing but no grip on full boost.
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Postby Grrrrrrr! » Mon Feb 06, 2012 12:28 pm

4 months so far for me...
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Postby Al » Tue Feb 07, 2012 5:39 pm

If owners of MR2s actually had some money there could be a good business opportunity. Sadly :lol:
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Postby headshotnz » Tue Feb 07, 2012 7:05 pm

Al wrote:If owners of MR2s actually had some money there could be a good business opportunity. Sadly :lol:


Ha!
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Previous: Ae101 trueno (S/S), ST185 Group A, Accord with adjustables and H22a certed. SW20 (ct20b, blitz ecu) Uzz30, ae101 s/s 20v c56(-04c;) ) lsd, ae100 beast 5afe(for maximum horsepowers)
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Postby iOnic » Tue Feb 07, 2012 7:12 pm

Some MR2 owners have quite a bit of money. It's the MR2 ownership equation that gets them.

Turbo MR2 cost of ownership = All the money you'll ever have + $1
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Postby solitaire » Tue Feb 07, 2012 8:07 pm

Akane wrote:takes me 3 years.

Buy engine, leave it outside in the rain for 2 years and 11 months.
Forced to move house, ask chalkie to give me a hand and slot the damn thing in within a day.
Including mounting the gearbox twice :wink:
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Postby RomanV » Tue Feb 07, 2012 11:31 pm

Akane wrote: ask chalkie to give me a hand and slot the damn thing in within a day.


True, did you get the motor in too?
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