Four Wheel Driving 101

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Four Wheel Driving 101

Postby BZG Wagon » Mon Apr 23, 2012 11:46 pm

Hopefully getting a Terrano in a few weeks and I'd like to take it off roading, but I don't have much (...any :roll:) experience.

The ute has 3 settings (4-high / 4-low / 2wd). My thoughts for each gear are:
* 4wd - High (Gravel / Sand / Mud / Water)
* 4wd - Low (Rock climbing / steep bumpy dry hills etc. Basically I'll never use it)
* 2wd (Tarmac - presume this is RWD)

Is this right? Should I use 4wd-high when driving on sand and gravel at speed (say 50 - 60kph)? Or am I better flicking into 2wd for speed or long distances and switch to 4wd on difficult stretches?

Also does this sound right:
* I hear letting the ute largely do its own thing is often the best way to get over difficult surfaces when you're a novice.
* My Dad taught me to cross streams at an angle following the flow of water, so the cars momentum is working with the stream.
* If you can't move forward, just keep reversing pack and pushing forward to carve out a bit of a track for the wheels (in essence inch forward).
* Lower tyre pressure before getting into really loose terrain (mud, soft sand etc).
* A friend recommended I cote underneath the car with some sort of paint (he couldn't remember the name) to stop corrosion. Any recommendations?
* What are some basic cheap items I should carry to get out of trouble (rope, shovel & air compressor come to mind).
Any other tips?

I'm thinking of exploring out around Muriwai & South Head to being with, with a few tracks connecting the forrest and beach I've stumbled on over the years.

It'll be a 2.7L Diesel Automatic.
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Re: Four Wheel Driving 101

Postby fj40cruzapete » Tue Apr 24, 2012 1:33 am

BZG Wagon wrote:Hopefully getting a Terrano in a few weeks and I'd like to take it off roading, but I don't have much (...any :roll:) experience.

The ute has 3 settings (4-high / 4-low / 2wd). My thoughts for each gear are:
* 4wd - High (Gravel / Sand / Mud / Water)
* 4wd - Low (Rock climbing / steep bumpy dry hills etc. Basically I'll never use it)
* 2wd (Tarmac - presume this is RWD)

Is this right? Should I use 4wd-high when driving on sand and gravel at speed (say 50 - 60kph)? Or am I better flicking into 2wd for speed or long distances and switch to 4wd on difficult stretches?

Also does this sound right:
* I hear letting the ute largely do its own thing is often the best way to get over difficult surfaces when you're a novice.
* My Dad taught me to cross streams at an angle following the flow of water, so the cars momentum is working with the stream.
* If you can't move forward, just keep reversing pack and pushing forward to carve out a bit of a track for the wheels (in essence inch forward).
* Lower tyre pressure before getting into really loose terrain (mud, soft sand etc).
* A friend recommended I cote underneath the car with some sort of paint (he couldn't remember the name) to stop corrosion. Any recommendations?
* What are some basic cheap items I should carry to get out of trouble (rope, shovel & air compressor come to mind).
Any other tips?

I'm thinking of exploring out around Muriwai & South Head to being with, with a few tracks connecting the forrest and beach I've stumbled on over the years.

It'll be a 2.7L Diesel Automatic.


join ur local club for a start

get proper rated tow hooks front and rear 20-30 bucks each and abit of time

use low for as much offroad as possible as high range is crap offroad

get a snatch strap, high lift jack, prs radio.

never go out wheeling alone (another 4wd) nothing worse than being stuck in the middle of nowhere

hope that helps abit
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Postby samlloyd » Tue Apr 24, 2012 3:49 am

Your probably wont have enough grunt to use 4wd high in offroad situations. Use Lo mainly. 2wd gets you further then you think.

Also, make sure its got an LSD rear, and a locker upgrade for the front is probably the best mod for the money, otherwise you have a fulltime 2wd
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Postby samlloyd » Tue Apr 24, 2012 3:51 am

Your probably wont have enough grunt to use 4wd high in offroad situations. Use Lo mainly. 2wd gets you further then you think.

Also, make sure its got an LSD rear, and a locker upgrade for the front is probably the best mod for the money, otherwise you have a fulltime 2wd
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Postby Elmo » Tue Apr 24, 2012 8:09 am

I use Low range when ever off roading. Yes 4 Hi is fine for gravel roads at speed so is 2wd but 4 gives more stablity.

If your vehicle does have an LSD dont bother putting one in. They are only useful when both rear wheels are solidly on the ground. As soon as one lifts it will spin just like an open diff. Yes, upgrading to lockers is certainly an advantage but only if you are getting into more serious stuff.

As said, if you 4x4 alone, which is fine in some areas, but be prepared to get stuff and have to wait for someone to come get you, try to go in a group if you can

Rated hooks AND bolts along with a good solid mounting point is a must.

You can get many places in 2wd also, but if you are out on tracks etc you get a lot of wheel spin, yes this maybe fun, but it also chews up the track and makes it harder for the next person. Just be ware of follow 4x4ers following you in the future. Not every one has 35 inch wheels etc.

Ken Sibly published two 4wding books, they are good for some track ideas, but also basics in 4x4ing.

High lift jack is useless unless you have the proper bars and lifting points. In the 6 years ive been out Ive never seen one used (I dont do extreme stuff)

Ive only ever deflated my tyres once, and thats because I was stuff in some soft mud. It helps, but if you dont have any way of pumping the tyres back up, it also hinders.

Coating bottom with paint, haha thats a good joke. What a waste of time that would prove to be.

Carry a shovel, in fact sometimes depending where you are going, carry two, so ya mates can dig also. Snatch strap a must, also a long 25 - 30 meter good solid rope. Some thin rope also helps to tie back some trees and things. Axe, saw, RATED D shackles.
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Postby BZG Wagon » Tue Apr 24, 2012 11:06 am

Cool - thanks for all the advice so far. I had no idea I should be using 4-low so that's good to know.

Tow hooks - look straight forward to install; three holes and just as many bolts to attach to the chassis. Don't install on a crumple zone.

Re: paint - is waterblasting the undercarriage sufficient for preventing rust after being out on the beach?

I don't think I'll be doing anything that will warrant a high lift jack, but shovels and a snatch snap should go a long way should I run into trouble.

Are most other guys out there reasonable if you run into trouble? My first 4wd'ing experience with a couple mates was a nightmare - we got stuck in some mud near Muriwai beach and some Maori guys demanded we give them $160 to be towed out, and then started abusing us endlessly for getting stuck. Fortunately some friends behind us came and pulled us out with no fuss (other then the same guys abusing them for pulling us out). I'm hoping this isn't the norm?

Elmo wrote:(I dont do extreme stuff)
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Postby rollaholic » Tue Apr 24, 2012 1:20 pm

i sorta been thinking about this too lately.

anyone got a ballpark on what a basic rig might cost for a total newb?
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Postby Mr Revhead » Tue Apr 24, 2012 1:27 pm

Depends what you want.
I reckon 5k if you don't want a cruiser or safari.

Just so happens I bought a MU for 1k on Sunday.....
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Postby fj40cruzapete » Tue Apr 24, 2012 7:14 pm

rollaholic wrote:i sorta been thinking about this too lately.

anyone got a ballpark on what a basic rig might cost for a total newb?


i picked up my 80 series landcriuser for 8500 more or less ready to go 4wding

but like has been said it depends what you want to do really

since selling my 80 im now looking at an 01 v8 jeep cherokee
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Postby Elmo » Tue Apr 24, 2012 8:39 pm

BZG Wagon wrote:
Elmo wrote:(I dont do extreme stuff)
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Thats not extreme, thats just 'cruisen the main' here in Chch! ;-)


Price wise on buying a rig, as said 5k is a good starting point. You wont get much of a vehicle for under that. In saying that, you willprobably find things cheaper, but not nesicerily ready/suitable for 4x4ing, or in great condition. Yes, Revhead bought a MU for just over a K, its not a bad 4x4, but its not already preped for off roading.

It simply depends on how far you want to go.
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Postby Mr.Phreak » Tue Apr 24, 2012 9:06 pm

Checking with local councils, DOC, 4WD clubs etc on where you're allowed to be can save you some grief
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Postby Mr Revhead » Tue Apr 24, 2012 9:34 pm

Yeah should've said 5k minimum

I expect the final bill to be around that!
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Re: Four Wheel Driving 101

Postby Quint » Thu Apr 26, 2012 9:52 am

BZG Wagon wrote: What are some basic cheap items I should carry to get out of trouble (rope, shovel & air compressor come to mind).
.

A set of nuts, 90% of trouble you'll get into is on descents, which accleration cures.

Also, get yourself a set of mud tyres on a set of rims and swap them out when you're going for a bash, will improved your vehicles ability to climb 10 fold.
That's all i've used before and had a good ole' time (retired my wagon as offroading is hard on the kit). winch is nice, but not really needed if you're with others.

Edit: you can get a hell of a basher for under 4k a 2lt with some muddies will do you fine.
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Postby ~SlideWays~ » Thu Apr 26, 2012 10:35 am

If you do put a locker in the front, I'd suggest only using a manual locking one. An auto locker is cheaper and less to break BUT in the front it'll make for a hugely understeery experience. Especially in mud, which can be very dangerous, I'm talking understeering at very very low speeds and you can't do anything. Mud caked tyres make it worse.

An auto locker in the rear is fine, I have one in my BJ73 Landcruiser just make sure it is fitted properly (professional) else they can be very noisey and even stay locked. Mine is well behaved, only a bit 'chirpy' in tight car parks. A mate has the same model Landcruiser buit without the rear locker, its like night and day.

Mud tyres make a big difference too and most designs also work well in sand, keep in mind that as soon as you increase the tyre diameter you drastically decrease performance. Engine works much harder and in a diesel that means black smoke and cracked heads.

Also bigger tyres drastically decrease braking performance.

As an example I run 30" road tyres which will be the standard size because the speedo reads perfectly. I also have some 33x12.5" mud tyres and they are great off road but drive up the hill on the way home it feels like having the handbrake on.

I also have some 35" mud tyres but that requires some cutting and raising, which is on the back burner.

DO NOT USE A SNATCH STRAP ON THE TOWBALL! They are not designed to take that kind of shock, the ball will snap off with the force of 2500kg's and go through someones face.

Offroading is awesome fun and it is easy to get carried away, I'd suggest setting a 'spec' goal rather than trying to better the best 4wd you go out with....can become a money pit very quickly.
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Postby Quint » Thu Apr 26, 2012 10:58 am

~SlideWays~ wrote:DO NOT USE A SNATCH STRAP ON THE TOWBALL! They are not designed to take that kind of shock, the ball will snap off with the force of 2500kg's and go through someones face.

Seen someone rip off their bullbars doing something similiar, wasted the arse end of the tow vehcile.
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Postby ~SlideWays~ » Thu Apr 26, 2012 1:55 pm

Quint wrote:
~SlideWays~ wrote:DO NOT USE A SNATCH STRAP ON THE TOWBALL! They are not designed to take that kind of shock, the ball will snap off with the force of 2500kg's and go through someones face.

Seen someone rip off their bullbars doing something similiar, wasted the arse end of the tow vehcile.


Mate had a snatch strap, snap in half and the force of that alone smashed right through the back window and hit the back of the front seats (no back seats). That'd be like getting whipped with a brick at that speed.

Also be very careful with hi-lift jacks (aka farm jacks) because they've been known to knock people out if not used properly.

blah blah, scarey stories. Just get out there and have fun with a little common sense. :lol:
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Postby BZG Wagon » Mon Jul 02, 2012 5:46 pm

Finally did some decent offroading in the forrest and up & around some dunes.

The Teranno handled everyting thrown at it (sometimes needed a few attempts) and surpased what I was expecting of it. Nothing too extreme while I learn.

I get the feeling that the lack of power from the 2.7 turbo deisel is the biggest drawback and I suspect bigger tyres would literally kill it.

Even in 4L is was struggling in the soft sand with the tyres let down to 18psi.

This vid was foot flat on the floor right the way to the top and on previous attempts it would pretty much just stop near the top with none of the wheels spinning (presume this puts a lot of stress on the auto trans).
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SroStemEuOw

Bigger turbo maybe?
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Postby Mr Revhead » Mon Jul 02, 2012 6:30 pm

Is it intercooled? Bigger exhaust, water injection, turbo mod. Lots you can do. Searched out a forum?
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Postby Elmo » Mon Jul 02, 2012 7:21 pm

18 psi, most people drop them to around 8 for the likes of sand. Big tyres kill anything. 2.7t wont lack in Hp, it lacks in low down torque like my Safari does, nothing without boost. On paper mine has the same peak HP as the non turb 4.2.
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Postby Elmo » Mon Jul 02, 2012 7:24 pm

Just remember what gains and loses you will have with a bigger turbo, more HP higher up, but less at the bottom where you need it for 4x4. Ive been tempted to swap my turbo for a supercharger simply to get lower down torque, but Im to lazy to do that. Ive got an inter cooler for mine, but still havent done the manifold so I cant mount it yer, again, to lazy. lol
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