3sgte oil

[slammed_integral]

im sure its been covered, but sifting 112 pages isnt gonna happen.

im sure it comes down to preference as to which is best, but can anyone give me some advice.

im needing to know what is a good oil to put into my 3sgte

car is st246 caldina, stock standard engine and turbo etc and is going for its 100000km service

15w 40?

[Bling]

viewtopic.php?t=70595

Found on page 2 after searching for 3sgte and oil hope that helps

[Makaveli]

Based on NZ climate:10W30 Oil. But as I prefer running fully synthetic oils, it's hard to find fully synthetic 10W30. So I use 5W30 in my 2JZ-GTE.

[RUKI]

According to one Toyota Caldina Manual 3S-GTE may use 5W-30.
We put 10W-40 Mobil 2000 (SemiSynth) in Caldina ST215 - runs well. Since last change 12000 km - oil still light color. Oil filter - original from Toyota.

[Heylin]

I used Valvoline VR1 for nearly 10 years in my previous MR2

1990 GT

did about 110,000 kms on it with no problems. 10,000 km \ 6 months change intervals.

Also used it in all my other previous cars

1984 Mazda Cosmo Rotary - 4 years and 80,000 kms
1988 Supercharged AW11 MR2 - 3 years and 70,000 kms
1999 Subaru Legacy B4 - 4 years and 100,000 kms
2004 Subaru Legacy GT-B - current

[BZG Wagon]

I tried a few oils - found Magnatec (10w-40) works the best and I've used it for a few years.

What kays, what car, what engine condition etc?

[jbod]

Ive used castrol magnetic 10w-40 in all 4 3sgte's I have had and they run like clockwork with it. Done alot of ks on them to with no deterioration of engine condition, seems to be a really good oil

[Al]

I use Penrite 10w50 Fully Syn. Any thinner and it burns it all before the next oil change

[Makaveli]

I find it funny every time someone asks for oil advice or tyre advice, you get 100 different opinions.



Please note: How same viscosity oil is recommended for two different temperature ranges. One in naturally aspirated form and one in turbocharged form. Bear in mind those workshop manuals are about 15 years old and API oil standards have advanced somewhat. So it's hard to say. Newer oil may perform better.

[sergei]

0W40 vs 10W40 -> 0W40 is superior oil. There is no disadvantage what so ever.

I have made a table a while ago:

All this data is from castrol site:

Code: Select all

SAE Rating    KV@40'C    KV@100'C
25W-50        207        21
10W-60        174        23.5
15W-40        112        14.8
10W-40        98.8       14.5
 5W-40        88         14.44
 0W-40        77.5       13.1

KV is basically viscosity.

looking at the table 0w40 looks very good for normal driving, and this is the one I would suggest using (if $$$ allows).

There is no significant difference between 0, 5, 10 , 15 W40 on hot, while "cold" (still 40'C), each grade offers over 10% difference.

What you want is least viscosity on cold and moderate viscosity on hot.

0W30 and 0W20 also is fine on N/A car even the ones with decent mileage.
Also going other way you will not "damage" the engine, ie I used 10W60 in 3SGTE for 70k with no failure, and previously on 20v for 100k, that seen a few 9000rpm (engine still runs fine , but been downgraded to magnatec). Once the oil gets in upper range (ie 120'C) each grade comes close to each other anyway.

The big disadvantage of more viscous oil (ie 50 or 60) is fuel bill and power loss as it is harder for oil pump to pump through the system (ie to replenish it). But if you are cooling pistons with it, then the oil will be hotter than coolant by 15-20'C anyway, hence under high RPM the 50 and 60 grade will be hot enough to drop viscosity to sufficient level. Saying that it still be thicker and flow slower, hence it will not cool hot parts fast enough.

In short, I used to think 10W60 is great oil, but then I found datasheet on it and now I think 0W40 is much better oil for 3SGTE.

[snwtoy]

Ive used castrol magnetic 10w-40 in all 4 3sgte's I have had and they run like clockwork with it. Done alot of ks on them to with no deterioration of engine condition, seems to be a really good oil

I have run magnatec 10w40 for the past 7 years in my caldina and it still runs very very well.

[Makaveli]

0WXX rated oils are designed for very cold environments. Countries like Canada, Russia etc. Thinner oil makes it easier for engine to start.

I think with turbocharged engine, the oil get's hotter than it would normally in a naturally aspirated engine as oil passes the turbine that spins at around 200,000 - 250,000 rpm.
Hence why you would need thicker oil.

[sergei]

0WXX rated oils are designed for very cold environments. Countries like Canada, Russia etc. Thinner oil makes it easier for engine to start.

I think with turbocharged engine, the oil get's hotter than it would normally in a naturally aspirated engine as oil passes the turbine that spins at around 200,000 - 250,000 rpm.
Hence why you would need thicker oil.

you cannot simply get too thin with first number before W in the rating.
0W40 is still better than 15W40 even in hot environments, as you can see from my chart the viscosity at 40'C is almost ten fold of what it is at 100'C.

Another point I would like to add:
If your thermostat is stuck then you will be running somewhere in between 40 and 100'C anyway (say 70'C) which puts it far worse than W50 or 60, even if you run W30 oil.
I guess viscosity at 70' of 10W40 will be about 50-60cst (centistokes : water at 20'C has 1cst kinematic viscosity), which is far worse than 23.5 at 100'C on 10W60.
Every single car I owned required thermostat to be replaced at some time (because it was stuck) and I am sure most people don't give a shit unless the car stops running, so imagine - the engine can survive very thick oil without any apparent damage...

[sergei]

I think with turbocharged engine, the oil get's hotter than it would normally in a naturally aspirated engine as oil passes the turbine that spins at around 200,000 - 250,000 rpm.

Nothing to do how fast something spins and more todo the proximity of exhaust gases, and heat production of the engine in general (due to increased power density). There are designs of the turbochargers with completely sealed system (it has it's own small oil reserve). All they did to achieve this is moved the bearing to the front of the compressor, thus moving it away from the heat source.

[Makaveli]

As far as I can tell looking at technical product data.

Main difference between 5W30 & 0W40 is that when oil is cold, 0W40 oi thicker at 40 C' than 5W30. Interesting to note though that at hotter temperature it remains slightly thicker than 5W30 as well.

0W40 @ 40 C' = 75.7 KV
5W30 @ 40 C' = 70.66 KV

0W40 @ 100 C' = 12.79 KV
5W30 @ 100 C' = 12.02 KV

Source: Castrol

I have compared the same viscosity oil grades to Pennzoil data and viscosity figures vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. ie: Castrol 5W30 is not the same as Pennzoil 5W30

[Grrrrrrr!]

you cannot simply get too thin with first number before W in the rating.
0W40 is still better than 15W40 even in hot environments, as you can see from my chart the viscosity at 40'C is almost ten fold of what it is at 100'C.

Why pay extra for a 0W when there is no benefit in using it? If you live in auckland and don't go to the snow there is no benefit in using a 0W if the manufacturere recommends a 10W, 10W is thin enough for the engine to turn over freely and flows fast enough.

[sergei]

you cannot simply get too thin with first number before W in the rating.
0W40 is still better than 15W40 even in hot environments, as you can see from my chart the viscosity at 40'C is almost ten fold of what it is at 100'C.

Why pay extra for a 0W when there is no benefit in using it? If you live in auckland and don't go to the snow there is no benefit in using a 0W if the manufacturere recommends a 10W, 10W is thin enough for the engine to turn over freely and flows fast enough.

start up and warmup period (ie first 5min), very important if your trip is only 5 min long.
Plus you get "full" synthetic vs "semi".

[Grrrrrrr!]

Would make SFA difference on startup and warmup, still the same oil pump pushing the same volume of oil and same relief valve. Buying better oil filters with anti-drainback valves would have more effect.

If you normal trip is only 5 mins and you don't make a habit of fitting in a decent long run reasonably often you are better off going for a cheap oil and changing it more often becuase you'll never evaporate all the condensation out of the oil and will end up pumping acidic oil around your engine.


Semi vs fully synthetic is a seperate issue, plenty of full synthetic 10w oils around.

[slammed_integral]

yeah was wanting to know favoured brands etc

ended up with mobil 5w30

[gt4dude]

I got this shit, says all good for 10w30 (ie 3sgte)