Cooking Fluid..

[fangsport]

Coryn and I bought some titanium backing plates last year, which helped slighty, but still, critical mass is eventually reached.

i didn't think titanium, being a metal alloy, had much thermal insulating properties??

[2jayzgte]

I've tried with and without the backing plates with the same results.

Ducting is also vented to the centre of the rotor aswell.

Reith yeah I no but at least I gave it a go just another thing to tick off the list so outside of a bias adjustment water cooling is really the only other thing I have'nt tried.

[xsspeed]

Ducting is also vented to the centre of the rotor aswell.

Try duct it to the parts of the rotor leaving the pads

[allencr]

Still have those anti-rattle shim between the pad & piston? If so, throw them away, they're just causing the pad to release less & drag more. It's not by much but you sure don't need any more.

[2jayzgte]

Still have those anti-rattle shim between the pad & piston? If so, throw them away, they're just causing the pad to release less & drag more. It's not by much but you sure don't need any more.

Gone years ago...Thanks for the response though.

[Snaps]

Branden you could be onto something there heat soak I also think is a problem and your solution to allow the heat to escape off the back of the backing plate is also a feasible idea.

It may not be the full problem, but I think it's definitely contributing to it. The point about the larger rotors is that; not only do they take longer to heat up the entire rotor, they also have a larger surface area (inside the cooling paths) to cool the rotor down, so you essentially reduce the problem in two ways.

[matt dunn]

I take it the rotors have curved vanes inside them not straight vanes,

and that they are fitted to the correct side so that they rotate the right way?
have seen that before.

[Mr Ree]

The TGP rotors and TRD rotors are both marked with R and L cast into them, so they should be on their respective sides, they certainly were last time I saw the car with its wheels off.

[2jayzgte]

Spoke to my performance guy this morning about the water sprayers options apparently he has them setup on a few Targa cars they are prepping and has the sprayers mounted so they fire into the brake ducting not straight onto the rotor.

Said the Wilwood Brake proportioning valves are'nt the ones to use he recommended the AP version as they have had several issue's with the Wilwoods hahahaha bugger lucky I got that for nothing.

He explained once he has deleted the ABS the brake bias will be 50/50 front to back and will install the valve and dial off the back brake accordingly to you feel just a little bit of squirm in the back of the car he thinks thats about optimal.

[Grrrrrrr!]

He explained once he has deleted the ABS the brake bias will be 50/50 front to back and will install the valve and dial off the back brake accordingly to you feel just a little bit of squirm in the back of the car he thinks thats about optimal.

Brake bias doesn't change with ABS, until the ABS starts blocking/bleeding pressure cos you've locked a wheel. Unless he's doing something other than bypassing the ABS unit with hard lines brake bias should be the same with ABS removed.

And 50/50 brake bias in a front engined car sounds like BS too, would expect at least 60% front since thats the axle that has the highest load under braking.

Unless the car has EBD, but i don't think anything 2jz had EBD?