Crankshaft pulley holder tool

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Crankshaft pulley holder tool

Postby solitaire » Wed Jan 09, 2013 10:51 am

Hi all,

In need of one of these, Mark is kindly checking Toyota but I would like to have a backup if that is a no go - i don't want to flick the starter as i have read horror stories about stuff breaking.

Anyone know of a please that sell these? Trying to do up the bolt to the right torque

Cheers

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Postby Dell'Orto » Wed Jan 09, 2013 12:17 pm

If you've got a welder and have a bit of steel lying around its not hard to make one...I did for my 3SGTE crank pulley.
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Postby DeeCee » Wed Jan 09, 2013 1:09 pm

This is the one I built:
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Postby KE20 » Wed Jan 09, 2013 2:53 pm

i put a giant screw driver against the flywheel in the teeth and that seems to hold it fine.
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Postby ee904age » Wed Jan 09, 2013 5:21 pm

Not going to help you with the engine in the car but in the past I've bolted a short length of chain from a bellhousing bolt to clutch pressure plate (gearbox off obviously).
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Postby fangsport » Wed Jan 09, 2013 6:00 pm

ee904age wrote:Not going to help you with the engine in the car but in the past I've bolted a short length of chain from a bellhousing bolt to clutch pressure plate (gearbox off obviously).


i have a few slotted and cranked bits of plate for removing flywheels.
the factory Toyota lifting hooks work well !!
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Postby solitaire » Fri Jan 11, 2013 2:42 pm

Have not got the time or raw materials to build a tool for this, the wife has spat the dummy - wants me to "just sort it, spend a couple of hundred and get it done"

so - I could buy a tool to hold the crank $160.

Or I could buy a air ratchet impact gun thing, a proper one that will do it up easily tight enough (181ftpnd) for a bit more.

Question is: will a decent air ratchet do the job? (providing air compressor is up to scratch)
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Postby Grrrrrrr! » Fri Jan 11, 2013 2:54 pm

If the sump isn't on the motor yet, jam a wooden/plastic handle from a hammer or whatever between the crank and the block to stop crank from turning. If the sump is on, have you got enough threebond to redo it?
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Postby phoenix » Fri Jan 11, 2013 2:59 pm

Remove inspection cover to gain access to the flex plate, jam large flathead screwdriver into gear and against bell housing while you tighten crank bolt.
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Postby Mr Revhead » Fri Jan 11, 2013 3:10 pm

You don't really want to do it up with a rattle gun. How do you know how tight it is?
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Postby solitaire » Fri Jan 11, 2013 3:11 pm

Engine is in car unfortunately, i tried the inspection cover but im loathed to do it with 181ftpnds and having the torque converter just behind it, ive dodged one bullet already on this - so the ratchet is a no go is that right?
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Postby Mr Revhead » Fri Jan 11, 2013 3:18 pm

This is why you should never buy an auto :P
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Postby neo » Fri Jan 11, 2013 3:19 pm

I done up a few with the rattlegun, nothing has ever snapped or come off...
I have a decent rattlegun however, and I always locktite the bolt.
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Postby limbo » Fri Jan 11, 2013 3:20 pm

The easiest way I know how to do it is to remove the starter motor, on my car takes about 30-60min, then I used an old big end bearing with the ends fitted nicely against the fly wheel teeth with the round side nicely jammed against the bell housing.

Then I used a torque wrench to tighten the bolt, I had to hire one for like $20 as I didnt have one that went up to 265N.m, hired torque wrenches are also calibrated regularly so that is a bonus. 265N.m is a serious amount of torque so I wouldnt play about with rattle guns or guess work.

The whole job should take about 1 to 2 hours with most of that work removing and installing the starter motor.

You have already spent much longer thinking about it so just get out there and do it
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Postby solitaire » Fri Jan 11, 2013 3:41 pm

Getting at the starter motor is a prick of a job on a 1uz as far as i can tell.

So consensus is sst and torque it up?

I really dont want to risk breaking anything, had a really near miss and just want to do it right and have my reliable old celsior back!
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Postby Bling » Fri Jan 11, 2013 4:33 pm

SST if you can't rangi something up to do the same job. DeeCee had a perfect example of a simple alternative to the SST that works and won't do any damage. Do you have an image of the SST required?
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Postby phoenix » Fri Jan 11, 2013 5:09 pm

Removing the starter to jam the ring gear will achieve the same as going through the inspection cover (except taking a hell of a lot longer)

It sounds like you're set on locking the pulley though, so are any of the people who've rangi'd one up in your vicinity?
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Postby Dell'Orto » Fri Jan 11, 2013 5:22 pm

If the spending advisor has given the go ahead to spend money I'd just take it to a mechanic and make it their problem :lol:
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Postby Lloyd » Fri Jan 11, 2013 5:43 pm

Mr Revhead wrote:You don't really want to do it up with a rattle gun. How do you know how tight it is?


Spoken like a true parts guy :P

The rattle gun really only has 2 setting: Tight enough and undo



Get in behind the cover and use a lever bar/whatever to lock up the converter. Worst case just buy some loctite and do it up to however tight you can.
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Postby solitaire » Fri Jan 11, 2013 5:45 pm

Dell'Orto wrote:If the spending advisor has given the go ahead to spend money I'd just take it to a mechanic and make it their problem :lol:
Thing is if I take it to a garage all they will do is do it up with a rattle gun... 50% of the reason i do this stuff myself is because I have never found a trustworthy mechanic who actually does it properly - they forget stuff or do it up too tight or forget to connect something... its a hassle - not as much of a hassle as this mind you - will get them to do the big stuff in future.

was hoping to justify a new rattle gun but if thats not the way to do it ill get the sst - it will take me 4 hours to get the raw materials and cut and weld a diy version anyway so i may as well buy it.

Cheers for the advice as always mate :D
Last edited by solitaire on Fri Jan 11, 2013 6:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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