Front brakes won't bleed

The place for all technical car discussions. If you haven't already, read our Disclaimer first!

Moderator: The Mod Squad

Front brakes won't bleed

Postby Dell'Orto » Sun Feb 03, 2013 6:26 pm

So finally got around to bleeding up my brakes today. Rears came up mint, but when I started on the fronts, they just don't want to play ball!
With a mityvac, I can pull fluid through to the caliper, but the pedal will not move any fluid at all. I didn't bench bleed the master cylinder when I rebuilt it, but I did disconnect the front pipe from the m/c and pulled fluid through with the vacuum bleeder.
Oddly, the pedal will go to the floor with either rear bleed nipple open, but as soon as they're closed the pedal goes hard again. Even with the front brake pipe undone from the m/c the pedal stays rock hard. Help?!?
Running all AE86 brake system
1988 KE70 Wagon - Slowly rusting
1990 NA6 MX-5 - because reasons
2018 Ranger - Because workcar
1997 FD3S RX-7 Type R - all brap, all the time
OMG so shiny!

Quint wrote:Not just cock, large cock.
User avatar
Dell'Orto
** Moderator **
 
Posts: 17494
Joined: Tue Jul 08, 2003 5:07 am
Location: Straight out the ghetto, Lower Hutt

Postby sergei » Sun Feb 03, 2013 7:21 pm

Have you installed the correct seals and right way?
What about lines, are you sure rear goes to rear vice-versa?

Front should be first circuit and rear should be second on RWD vehicle (although I am not 100% sure if it same for AE86)...
User avatar
sergei
Mad Russian
 
Posts: 8406
Joined: Wed May 15, 2002 12:06 pm
Location: North Shore

Postby Dell'Orto » Sun Feb 03, 2013 7:38 pm

Yep followed the manual to a T. Yes the front line is fed by the line off the front of the m/c, and the rear from the second line closer to the reservoir. It actually says F and R on the m/c so I can't $&#$% it up :lol:
1988 KE70 Wagon - Slowly rusting
1990 NA6 MX-5 - because reasons
2018 Ranger - Because workcar
1997 FD3S RX-7 Type R - all brap, all the time
OMG so shiny!

Quint wrote:Not just cock, large cock.
User avatar
Dell'Orto
** Moderator **
 
Posts: 17494
Joined: Tue Jul 08, 2003 5:07 am
Location: Straight out the ghetto, Lower Hutt

Postby Stott69 » Sun Feb 03, 2013 7:43 pm

Id try removing the lines from the caliper and eliminate weather theres crap in the lines
User avatar
Stott69
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 2605
Joined: Thu Oct 04, 2007 11:51 am
Location: Wainui Central!

Postby fangsport » Sun Feb 03, 2013 7:50 pm

is the forward piston assembly been reinstalled the correct way? dosn't affect the seal orientation, but does affect port alignment on some M/C's
I've been a bad bad boy. I should read the rules and behave before I get spanked by an admin

f#@k you i won't do what ya tell me

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Fangwood/225658970893404
fangsport
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 4169
Joined: Sun Nov 30, 2003 10:52 am
Location: Timaru

Postby Adoom » Sun Feb 03, 2013 7:56 pm

Stott69 wrote:Id try removing the lines from the caliper and eliminate weather theres crap in the lines

This, or try remove the line from the master cylinder to the front brakes, does it pump fluid out of the master cylinder? Then work your way towards the callipers till you find the failure.
User avatar
Adoom
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 1516
Joined: Thu Aug 07, 2003 5:36 pm
Location: Upper Hutt

Re: Front brakes won't bleed

Postby Dell'Orto » Sun Feb 03, 2013 7:57 pm

Dell'Orto wrote:. Even with the front brake pipe undone from the m/c the pedal stays rock hard.
1988 KE70 Wagon - Slowly rusting
1990 NA6 MX-5 - because reasons
2018 Ranger - Because workcar
1997 FD3S RX-7 Type R - all brap, all the time
OMG so shiny!

Quint wrote:Not just cock, large cock.
User avatar
Dell'Orto
** Moderator **
 
Posts: 17494
Joined: Tue Jul 08, 2003 5:07 am
Location: Straight out the ghetto, Lower Hutt

Postby Dell'Orto » Sun Feb 03, 2013 7:58 pm

fangsport wrote:is the forward piston assembly been reinstalled the correct way? dosn't affect the seal orientation, but does affect port alignment on some M/C's


I'm fairly certain it was - I had 3 others to pull apart to compare...I may have to strip it down and recheck though.
1988 KE70 Wagon - Slowly rusting
1990 NA6 MX-5 - because reasons
2018 Ranger - Because workcar
1997 FD3S RX-7 Type R - all brap, all the time
OMG so shiny!

Quint wrote:Not just cock, large cock.
User avatar
Dell'Orto
** Moderator **
 
Posts: 17494
Joined: Tue Jul 08, 2003 5:07 am
Location: Straight out the ghetto, Lower Hutt

Postby fangsport » Sun Feb 03, 2013 8:06 pm

Dell'Orto wrote:
fangsport wrote:is the forward piston assembly been reinstalled the correct way? dosn't affect the seal orientation, but does affect port alignment on some M/C's


I'm fairly certain it was - I had 3 others to pull apart to compare...I may have to strip it down and recheck though.


done it on a mate's stockcar.......... not they need brakes with a bumper like that !!
I've been a bad bad boy. I should read the rules and behave before I get spanked by an admin

f#@k you i won't do what ya tell me

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Fangwood/225658970893404
fangsport
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 4169
Joined: Sun Nov 30, 2003 10:52 am
Location: Timaru

Postby matt dunn » Sun Feb 03, 2013 9:10 pm

can you swap the two outlets on the master cylinder to try,
probably wont solve the problem but will tell you if it is the MC or not,
as it should bleed the front and not the back then.
7AGTE - DX20VT - viewtopic.php?t=59733
Discussion - viewtopic.php?t=59751
matt dunn
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 7109
Joined: Fri Sep 12, 2003 1:01 am
Location: Timaru

Postby Crucible » Sun Feb 03, 2013 9:35 pm

Edit..

I just re read your post.

Do you have flow from both ports with pipes disconnected?
User avatar
Crucible
Real Life Mechanic
 
Posts: 1438
Joined: Sun Jul 17, 2005 2:46 am
Location: Wellington

Postby Grrrrrrr! » Sun Feb 03, 2013 11:27 pm

Did you put the little bolt on the side of the master cylinder that holds the front piston in before the front piston was far enough forward? try taking it out then pushing the pedal in a bit, then tightening it up.

When you bleed the rear circuit does the pedal go all the way to the floor or stop after not much travel?
Reality: A nasty hallucination that is caused by excess blood in the alcohol stream.
Grrrrrrr!
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 2566
Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2003 7:21 pm
Location: Souf Orkland

Postby Quint » Mon Feb 04, 2013 8:40 am

sergei wrote:Have you installed the correct seals and right way?

This.
User avatar
Quint
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 1251
Joined: Tue May 24, 2005 2:24 pm

Postby allencr » Mon Feb 04, 2013 2:04 pm

MC is F'd up, assembled wrong.
Pedal wouldn't go the the floor if that little piston stop bolt was in the wrong position, so you've got a seal or piston in backwards, or if new pistons came in a kit, check against the old ones.
allencr
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 346
Joined: Thu Dec 04, 2008 9:02 am
Location: Talahassee, Florida USofA

Postby Dell'Orto » Mon Feb 04, 2013 6:34 pm

Cruicible wrote:just re read your post.

Do you have flow from both ports with pipes disconnected?


Not really, maybe a dribble from the front with a geyser from the rear :lol:

Grrrrrrr! wrote:Did you put the little bolt on the side of the master cylinder that holds the front piston in before the front piston was far enough forward? try taking it out then pushing the pedal in a bit, then tightening it up.


I did notice the day after installing it that it was leaking from the stopper bolt, and it was quite loose. Today at lunch I stripped it and reassembled, and with the piston assembly compressed right up, I reinstalled the bolt but it seems to have made no difference. Unless I wasn't compressing it as much as I though?
When you bleed the rear circuit does the pedal go all the way to the floor or stop after not much travel?

Hits the floor

allencr wrote:MC is F'd up, assembled wrong.
Pedal wouldn't go the the floor if that little piston stop bolt was in the wrong position, so you've got a seal or piston in backwards, or if new pistons came in a kit, check against the old ones.


That's what I'm leaning toward...however I've got 4 identical m/cs to compare it to, and the seal orientation appears to be the same. Pistons are definitely in right. I do wonder if perhaps the seal kit is slighty different? I used a kit from BNT, perhaps I should get a genuine kit and see.
1988 KE70 Wagon - Slowly rusting
1990 NA6 MX-5 - because reasons
2018 Ranger - Because workcar
1997 FD3S RX-7 Type R - all brap, all the time
OMG so shiny!

Quint wrote:Not just cock, large cock.
User avatar
Dell'Orto
** Moderator **
 
Posts: 17494
Joined: Tue Jul 08, 2003 5:07 am
Location: Straight out the ghetto, Lower Hutt

Postby crispy'86 » Mon Feb 04, 2013 7:05 pm

it won't take much if the seals are slightly larger in diameter, Measure the piston, the bore size. Seems like something is blocking off the outlet port for the front lines.
1983 Trueno Ae86 ( project), 92 HSV Clubbie. 2000 Fielder wagon
Many previously owned projects: 94 Hilux 4WD, 92 VP SS commodore, AE85 notchback, Ae85 rolling shell, Ke35 sr coupe, EP82 turb starlet
User avatar
crispy'86
** Moderator **
 
Posts: 3548
Joined: Thu Jul 03, 2003 11:27 pm
Location: Chch

Postby Dell'Orto » Wed Feb 06, 2013 12:04 am

So not 100% sure how, but I've fixed it...I either had the springs the wrong way around (There is a long one and a short one) or this time when I reassembled it I paid close attention to how far the front piston assembly was down before I wound in the stop bolt.
Either, way brakes are mostly bled and we're good to go 8)
1988 KE70 Wagon - Slowly rusting
1990 NA6 MX-5 - because reasons
2018 Ranger - Because workcar
1997 FD3S RX-7 Type R - all brap, all the time
OMG so shiny!

Quint wrote:Not just cock, large cock.
User avatar
Dell'Orto
** Moderator **
 
Posts: 17494
Joined: Tue Jul 08, 2003 5:07 am
Location: Straight out the ghetto, Lower Hutt


Return to Tech Questions

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Bing [Bot], Google [Bot] and 24 guests