Sw20 Gen 2.5 Build (Of sorts)

[mcfatty1000]

Hi

I'm doing the last part of my Sw20 3sge gen 2 to gen 3 swap
I've had the car running a gen 3 engine from a gen 2 loom and ecu for the last two years (Earthquake got in the way) and now putting in the gen 3 ecu, onto the existing loom (Can't find a gen 3 loom for sw20, also, cheaper this way)

So, I've changed the injectors to gen3 ones (long story short, now have a second set of gen3 (green) injectors, if anyone needs some..) and changed the ht leads, dizzy cap and coil lead. However, to do the injectors, I had to take the intake off to get down the the fuel rail - I've put everything back together and its revving (at idle) to ~5000rpm...

I haven't touched the ecu yet, so, what have I screwed up? Air leak somewhere? For a short while, it was pulsating from 2-2.5k rpm but likes to continue up much higher. Only ran it for about 10 seconds total.

Thoughts?

[Dell'Orto]

Definitely eliminate the possibility of an air leak first up, its the most likely option

[mcfatty1000]

Cool, thats what I thought - where are the likely places? Apart from around the air intake itself

And would a missed/screwy vac line do this?

[Dell'Orto]

When you say you took off the intake - do you mean the throttle body or the whole manifold?

[mcfatty1000]

Both. Engine was/is still in the car and couldn't get to the injectors to swap them out otherwise.

[mcfatty1000]

just had a horrible thought - could it be air being sucked in from around the injectors? If I haven't seated them right? Or would there be other signs if this was the case?

[Dell'Orto]

Fuel spraying out mostly Other thing is that maybe you tightened the throttle cable too much holding it open? But I'd look to find air leaks first.

[iOnic]

Is the brake booster vacuum line connected to the manifold?

[mcfatty1000]

Pretty sure I got all the vac lines right when I hooked them up but I'll double check when I get the chance to work on it again

Didn't see any evidence of fuel spraying everywhere so I'm gonna take that as a good thing at least

[BlakeNZ]

i have a gen 3 loom and ecu i think... if interested. and everything else to change to gen 3, but would prefer to keep the map sensor.

[mcfatty1000]

I've got the ecu, and everything else has been hooked up with the gen 2 loom (by someone else, no idea what its running off actually)

Was just going to re-wire it at the ecu end. But, how much?

[mcfatty1000]

So, got round to taking the first part of the manifold off (going to go the scraping all the silicone off and put new gaskets throughout route -anything I can use to make sure this is done right?), just wanting to check, are these supposed to be open at rest? Realised I actually don't have that good an idea of what they do (In terms of when the acis is open/shut etc)

Thoughts?
Replacing the injector o-rings and seals while I'm taking everything off, so hoping that fixes the air leak

[rollaholic]

Fuel spraying out mostly Other thing is that maybe you tightened the throttle cable too much holding it open? But I'd look to find air leaks first.

only if the injector / rail o-ring were the problem, if its injector / manifold a vac leak is much more likely

i cant speak specifically about ACIS, but if they are vacuum operated then chances are without the engine running they'll be open. you can probably check once its back together by noting where the arm is positioned with engine off, then seeing if it moves when you start it up.

(presumably they are supposed to be closed at low RPM / idle)

[mcfatty1000]

Cool, vac leak is the most likely cause then. Can't see fuel being thrown about at least.

What do people use to get rid of old silicone gaskets? I've got the new steel ones coming but a previous mechanic has used silicone as well - thinking that the old dried stuff is stopping the air seal too - turps? Was also suggested trying brake cleaner

[rollaholic]

i usually use a nice sharp razor blade, you can kind of scrape it along the surface you want clean and it picks up all the crud. keep the blade almost perpendicular to the surface, rather than trying to cut off the silicone if that makes sense.

maybe this mspaint thing helps. lacks the romanv magic though



you can spray a bit of solvent on a rag to rub off any stubborn bits, usually works pretty well.

[iOnic]

Angle grinder.












Is not recommended.

[Grrrrrrr!]

Helps somewhat, but still some elbow-grease required.

[RomanV]

maybe this mspaint thing helps. lacks the romanv magic though

Oh gosh you're making me blush!

For what it's worth, when I saw your diagram, I was all like "$&#$% yeah! MSpaint!"

Keep up the good work!

Here's my interpretation:

[mcfatty1000]

Yeah, should have expected the flak for that. Scraper was what worked best.

You should make a 'how to do anything' thread, just do everything in paint...
Actually awesome

[mcfatty1000]

Righto,

Most of the parts came today so I replaced the gaskets and the injector orings. That was all good. Started her up, went well, Tested for about 20kms, no worries.

Started on the ecu end of the loom, changing the pins to fit the gen 3 ecu.
Got all of two pins out before time caught up/was finding it really hard to get them out (Unpined the gen 3 plugs off another loom the other day fine)

So, two ground pins unplugged, decided to put it back together to have a running car

Mixed the two grounds, wouldn't start. Swapped them over. Starts, but only missing on one of the cylinders

Had had ago at the first of the injector pins before deciding to do it another day - thinking this might be the cause? Damaged connector to the injector making it not run on that cylinder?

Also part of the decision t stop for now was that there don't seem to be any distributor wires running to the ecu, even though they should be there according to the pinouts I have? How it is even running at all?

So, how do I get that pin working again/replacement pins?