quick question guys..

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Postby 1I1 » Sun Aug 11, 2013 8:20 pm

allencr wrote:Looping is just adding another bypass.
If you want coolant bypassing the radiator AND don't have a marginal cooling system, do it.


How will it by-pass the radiator?
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Postby Crucible » Sun Aug 11, 2013 8:23 pm

I dont know any mechanic that will fail a bypassed core for a wof. Only people that work for vtnz might give a shit :P
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Postby RomanV » Sun Aug 11, 2013 8:36 pm

As someone who's driven a car without a heater for a while, sweet mother of god keep it in there.

Fogged up windows are the shittiest thing ever, why put in work now to make things harder for yourself later.
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Postby rollaholic » Sun Aug 11, 2013 9:02 pm

i agree with the above, even if its only a weekend car lack of a decent demist option is alot more annoying than you might think. frankly even AC delete is an iffy option IME.

being cold sucks too.
Last edited by rollaholic on Sun Aug 11, 2013 9:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Al » Sun Aug 11, 2013 9:04 pm

Lloyd wrote:You're sounding a lot like a VTNZ employee right now


:lol:
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Postby iOnic » Sun Aug 11, 2013 9:15 pm

Lloyd wrote:You're all sounding a lot like grannies right now
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Postby sergei » Sun Aug 11, 2013 11:34 pm

Here is why blocking it or looping it does not matter:

When you set your heater to cold, the valve on the firewall (in most '90 toyotas) will close which is equivalent to blocking off the heater.
When you set your heater to hot, the same valve opens which is equivalent to loop in the heater line.

When you are on the track I bet you don't run the heater on full hot - that is equivalent running the same car without heater with the heater line blocked off.

Looping will only have negative effects on cars with serious cooling system problems - as it will bypass the radiator. By serious I mean worn off water pump impeller so water pump is at partial capacity, or blocked radiator (so easiest path that water can take is via the loop).
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Postby Crucible » Sun Aug 11, 2013 11:46 pm

^ good point
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Postby suprra_girl » Mon Aug 12, 2013 12:45 am

It would be minorly inefficient to loop but as said, if your cooling system is fine you can loop but block if practical to do so. Toyotas on some engines had factory hose caps that went on steel coolant pipes so you could pick some up at toyota.
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Postby Snaps » Mon Aug 12, 2013 11:44 am

Why not just block it off rather than looping? That way coolant doesn't bypass the radiator, so no cooling issues (ie the same as having the heater turned off), and it's probably almost as easy as looping it..
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Postby Pelo » Mon Aug 12, 2013 12:08 pm

RomanV wrote:As someone who's driven a car without a heater for a while, sweet mother of god keep it in there.

Fogged up windows are the shittiest thing ever, why put in work now to make things harder for yourself later.


+1 to this, definitely. No heater is HORRIBLE. The car will be limited to rainless, low humidity days. Good luck with that in most of NZ.
Since the car will sit for a while in between drives, a lot of moisture will build up inside the cabin.
Any car that can't demist properly is dangerous.
I've seen some ridiculous messing around on the track, in cars without heaters, everyone desperately trying to get the screen clear enough to leave the pit lane.
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Postby GDII » Mon Aug 12, 2013 12:12 pm

Looping or blocking doesn't matter. (Well from factory fitment in Toyota developed cars) My MR2 has a water valve controlling the water movement through the core, but the Daihatsu and the EP81 Starlet constantly run water through the core as there is no water valve. The cabin temp is controller by an air flap inside.

But keeping the heater is a better idea. Driving with fogged up windows is dangerous. I've seen too many people driving around with a small patch on the windscreen unfogged by their hand. I always keep my distance from them. :evil:
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Postby suprra_girl » Mon Aug 12, 2013 6:52 pm

Yar, I have a heater and my windows fog up >.< I need to get some of that stuff for the windscreens... once I clean my windows properly hah
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Postby snwtoy » Mon Aug 12, 2013 7:25 pm

Or if you do remove it, put a wire demister on the front window?
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Postby rollaholic » Mon Aug 12, 2013 8:44 pm

snwtoy wrote:Or if you do remove it, put a wire demister on the front window?


this would be a bare minimum.

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Postby matt dunn » Mon Aug 12, 2013 9:12 pm

snwtoy wrote:Or if you do remove it, put a wire demister on the front window?


the stick on ones are useless,
they slow a windscreen down from misting up,
but if they are already fogged up they wont do much.

Only the inbuilt ones are any good.
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Postby fangsport » Mon Aug 12, 2013 9:24 pm

matt dunn wrote:
snwtoy wrote:Or if you do remove it, put a wire demister on the front window?


the stick on ones are useless,
they slow a windscreen down from misting up,
but if they are already fogged up they wont do much.

Only the inbuilt ones are any good.


they also do NOT handle major temperature changes when already cold (rally use).

for the 5-10kg one saves by deleting the heatercore, either run off the extra pounds the driver carries, or fit less gay, lighter wheels
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