16/01 still...st215 caldina beams 3s high/surging idle

[xsspeed]

Hey guys, have had the engine out of the wife's caldina doing a bunch of seals and other bits and pieces as it decided to turn british on me.
Have got the engine back in and its cranking but wont fire.

I seem to get pressure at the fuel filter (when i crack the banjo bolt it squirts out but not a huge amount). Have disconnected the return from the fuel rail and extended the line to a bottle, but with key at either ign or start not flowing anythin gout of the return.

I have checked and swapped in a different 15A fuse in the engine bay, removed and reinserted the engine bay efi relay, I think there is another in the passenger footwell?
Across the pump plug I get 5.8V across 2 pins when key is at ign, drops to 3.7V when cranking. There's 4 wires going into the plug but can only detect a voltage across two of them.
I havent checked spark yet as trying to rule out fuel

Should I be getting 12V at pump?
If im getting some pressure in the supply line between filter and rail do I have a block?

Edit: damn realised i was measuring volts across pins and not to body/ground, will recheck

[xsspeed]

Well got one start, but forgot how loud this thing is (i have put st202 ssIII headers on to delete the cats in manifold abortions. I think the crank position sensor wires were shorting at least thats the last thing i $&#$% with/tidied before cranking. Hopefully can sort tomorrow

[xsspeed]

Starting like a champ now, but suffering with an exhaust leak at header end will have to recheck gaskets

[Dell'Orto]

Hope you antiseized all the bolts, makes life so much easier afterward

[xsspeed]

lol nope, everything came apart again ok though, leaks were a cone gasket not seating right and where the 2-1 flange connected to the fab'd system under floor, the alignment of the faces wasnt great so stuck a crush type gasket in and that sorted it.

Two problems left I think, radiator drain screw thing is weeping, hopefully thread tape sorted that, and ABS light was on - disconnected battery for a bit so will see if thats reset anything, otherwise its probably beyond my capability to diagnose

[GDII]

The thread tape might not work on the radiator drain plug. It relies on the O ring to seal it up. The thread is just there to allow you to undo it. There coolant will drain past the O ring and out the drain hole rather than try to go through the thread.

[xsspeed]

Cheers, has been holding but I will investigate

Outcome of wof check was ABS sensor dead and steering felt like UJ was binding
Replaced with a sensor from zebra - fault cleared
Fiddled with steering column and readjusted alignment a little - turns smooth

Fanged the shit out of it on saturday to make sure it went hard for what it is, it did
Went to take for recheck this morning, wamp wah, engine chokes with throttle and feels like it wants to stall. Idle is fine. Vac leak?

[xsspeed]

OK so this new problem:

Caldina was running sweet, then went to go for wof recheck and it is running a bit shit
Hesitation when in gear (ie has load), or when in neutral and go straight to WOT (foot straight to floor). Part throttle through rev range seems fine in neutral (can gradually open throttle and it will happily rev through to limiter)

I fanged it hard on saturday night which it got through fine, symptoms only started yesterday morning pulling out of driveway (didnt touch it on sunday)

I have new fuel filter and plugs on the way (they are due anyway) from Mark, and will check the tank pickup hasnt collected anything. Because its going ok through rev range at part throttle initially to WOT at high revs. Im kind of thinking fuel isnt the problem.

Other things I'm thinking are TPS and MAF, I have a spare TPS or two i can try form my other engines, MAF I guess could give a go cleaning it? Other than that...check for vac leaks that have popped up spontaneously?

[Dell'Orto]

Checked for any codes? Assume it has OBDII?

[xsspeed]

they are quasi obdii iirc, nah havent pulled codes yet

[xsspeed]

Ok so my spare tps/throttle fixed that. Unplugging the old one dodnt make a change to symptoms, replaced and problem went away. Drove for a bit now have vacuum leak symptoms. Idling rough and stalls when i put into gear. Thought it was brake vac hose but no. Seems to be idling and running lean

Will check TB seal tonight.
I did also change fuel filter when ruling out previous issue around fuel delivery but will check theres no fuel delivery restriction.

Any other thoughts?

[sergei]

Did you set the TPS to 0.5v on closed throttle?

[xsspeed]

nope, plugged and played, so will show my ignorance, how do I do so?

Presumably done by adjusting the stopper screw on throttle body - where do I take voltage from?

[85AW20v]

Nope. Google is your friend. Heaps of info out there....

[sergei]

The TPS should have 3 or 4 pins. Find a pin that changes voltage from 0.5v to 4.5-4.8V (gradually) when you are varying throttle (with ignition on). The pin should the middle one .
Once determined correct pin close throttle (and make sure there is slack in the cable), loosen the TPS screws and adjust TPS body so the centre pin measures 0.5V (eg 0.495V or 0.505V is close enough). That is the simplified version.

[xsspeed]

seems i can only get it as low as 0.54V and at WOT its 3.83V

Anyone know how interchangeable toyota tps's are between models (ie screws and plugs)?

[whynot]

Might be worth pulling the TPS sensor off and checking it was assembled correctly. It is possible to put it together with the guts misaligned and that could be causing your adjustment problems.

Remove the 2 screws completely and lift it off the throttle body. There are a set of tabs that the sensor part sits in between and if you are careless putting it together its easy to get it sitting on one side rather than in the middle of them.

[xsspeed]

I have a couple of spare tps's. I have a feeling the rotary iacv may have been full of crap so split that and gave it a clean out. Will see how it goes when its all back together

[xsspeed]

OK so cleaning the IACV seemed to help a bit, but then i was getting CEL, and sometimes revs at idle in neutral or park would be pushing 2000rpm, and in D its at nearly 1200rpm and fighting the stall of the torque converter. I found another IACV and that seemed to help for a few kms of driving but then it resorted back to high idle.

Given that's not eliminated it I'll pull the codes, only not sure where the diag plug is? I've heard these are quasi OBDII so what do I bridge? assuming no E1/TE1 on these?

Anyone got any ideas, it really feels like IACV is opening right up when it shouldnt and so its flowing a lot more air. Anyone know what the inputs to ECU are that control that valve? Assuming ECU's not giving rubbish outputs and its the inputs that are shit.

[GDII]

The ECU grounds either of 2 wires to control the valve, one is RSO Red and the other is RSC Green. The centre pin of the idle valve plug should be black w/ yellow and provides 12v. Have you run the car without the electrical plug? If there are no changes then it's the wiring.

Test the wires (RSC and RSO) from the plug to the ECU for continuity and check the power wire from the diagnostics plug B+.

This might be completely useless but this is how the older ECUs work.