How do you replace brake pads?

Akane · Post by **Akane** » Fri Apr 08, 2005 4:07 pm

Coz this happens when I wind the clamp down to push the piston back in:

Zak · Post by **Zak** » Fri Apr 08, 2005 4:10 pm

If you open the bleed valve it should release the pressure, and it should go back in easy.

Of course I'm probably wrong though, my memory's screwed

Post by **Distrb** » Fri Apr 08, 2005 4:20 pm

if its a rear one, you're proably going to need to turn the piston itself to wind it back in, as no clamp in the world will squeeze it back into place

Zak · Post by **Zak** » Fri Apr 08, 2005 4:23 pm

Gotta love the "extra strong" written down the side of that clamp :lol:

Dr-X · Post by **Dr-X** » Fri Apr 08, 2005 5:05 pm

Please tell me you weren't using that on the rear calipers

Zero_Cool · Post by **Zero_Cool** » Fri Apr 08, 2005 5:23 pm

take off bleed valve or take off the hose completely

Akane · Post by **Akane** » Fri Apr 08, 2005 5:27 pm

I didn't wanna bleed it coz nobody's home to bleed the system with me till late.

And I don't think it's a turn in coz the thing don't turn when i press the brake pedal.

ee904age · Post by **ee904age** » Fri Apr 08, 2005 5:29 pm

If its the rears, use some needle nose pliers as a big screwdriver to screw the piston back in. Clamping will get you nowhere.

Akane · Post by **Akane** » Fri Apr 08, 2005 6:09 pm

the needle pliers that I bought are no good, I had to use some big pliers and damage some of my piston to get it in.

1 side done, other side to go.

Oh, and I had to bleed the thing...... sigh, cannot take shortcuts huh?

dohca · Post by **dohca** » Fri Apr 08, 2005 6:25 pm

told ya

dannyp

Akane · Post by **Akane** » Fri Apr 08, 2005 7:20 pm

gimme your postal address so I can send you a chocolate fish.

Post by **Mr Revhead** » Fri Apr 08, 2005 10:37 pm

shouldnt need to undo any brake lines... just make sure you dont overflow the bottle.

good effort on that clamp, you must have strong wrists :wink:

sergei · Post by **sergei** » Fri Apr 08, 2005 10:49 pm

I'm sure it says "Made in China" on other side, on good ones I usualy manage bend the lever or screw up the thread on bolt, but not brake like that.
Never buy any tools which says "Made in China" unless you like breaking tools

Zero_Cool · Post by **Zero_Cool** » Sat Apr 09, 2005 12:41 am

i find it was really really easy to do it with brake lines off is this bad to do it that way?

sergei · Post by **sergei** » Sat Apr 09, 2005 12:51 am

if you don't mind bleeding brakes afterwards...
Actually if front callipers don't feel like they going in with some force, they will go eventually, just leave them under pressure for couple of minutes, then add more and so on, eventually they should go in, if for some reasons they don't go in, they might be jammed from overheating or rust etc.. in worst case you might have to replace calipers or hone and replace seals etc..

Akane · Post by **Akane** » Sat Apr 09, 2005 1:05 am

I used a spanner, I have weak hands. It wasin't that tight tho, just a bit of force for a weak asian, probably a tickle for you guys.

Oh the other hand, my pads were worn down to the metal, now I know what that scraping sound was

No wonder why I only scored 10% for handbrake at WOF.

[V8ROLA] · Post by **[V8ROLA]** » Sun Apr 10, 2005 10:46 pm

ahaha

dam that was some effort there akane

LOL
you should ALWAYS bleed ya brakes on a pad change the more you can bleed it the better

eliminates any water build up in the system.
from memory they are the ratchet style caliper hence the wind in.
and it is easy to bleed brakes as a one man band

just need a pole or stick of the right length to hold the peedle down

Zero_Cool · Post by **Zero_Cool** » Sun Apr 10, 2005 11:59 pm

haha or you can be superman and quickly push down the brakes then close off bleeder valve

Wildcard · Post by **Wildcard** » Mon Apr 11, 2005 9:02 am

I'm just upset the vice doesnt say 'exra stong' on it

Zero_Cool · Post by **Zero_Cool** » Mon Apr 11, 2005 7:44 pm

probably says made in china doesn't that mean its strong? :roll: