Help with brakes, any opinions...

trd-drifting · Post by **trd-drifting** » Wed Oct 08, 2008 7:32 pm

I am not a mechanic, but under hard braking my supra pulls slightly to the left not to noticable but would like to correct this. How would you go about fixing this, as my understanding is that the left brake will be working well or to good and right brake not good enough or a bit of resistance in the pistion etc.. How would you go about correcting this as this is hardly noticable but i want corrected.

Any opinions appreciated

Josh

Lloyd · Post by **Lloyd** » Wed Oct 08, 2008 7:37 pm

Does the car wander to the left a bit anyway? If so then probably not much to do short of a wheel alignment

If its brakes, pull the calipers off and see if the slides are sticky at all

trd-drifting · Post by **trd-drifting** » Wed Oct 08, 2008 7:43 pm

Sorry i should of added its not to do with the wheel alignment, what do you mean if sides are sticky and how can you correct this.. I pulled off briefly the other day but nothing out of the blue that i could see wrong with them

AE82 FXGT · Post by **AE82 FXGT** » Wed Oct 08, 2008 8:23 pm

Are supra's sliding type or solid calipers?

Does the caliper have pistons on both sides or just one?

If you rule wheel alignment out (and sliders), I'd start with a good brake bleed, then if that doesn't fix it you would want to look at re kitting the calipers (assuming the proportioning valve only splits front and rear?).

postfach · Post by **postfach** » Wed Oct 08, 2008 9:04 pm

Supras have single piston slide calipers.

AE82 FXGT · Post by **AE82 FXGT** » Thu Oct 09, 2008 11:26 am

postfach wrote:Supras have single piston slide calipers.

are you talking rear brakes?

trd-drifting · Post by **trd-drifting** » Thu Oct 09, 2008 8:30 pm

Sorry about replying late to this

Does the caliper have pistons on both sides or just one?

Single pistion calipers (usless things)

Also talking front brakes sorry.

I will start with a brake bleed and replacing fluid this weekend, if it is the seals gone in the caliper if i pushed the pistion back into the caliper should one be hard to push in than the otherside and would i notice the difference if i was using a small G clamp, or is this a stupid idea. Any thing else i could check before i do it this weekend.

Other than checking for obvious small hose kinks then i will rekit the calliper. Or is there somthing else i am missing.

Josh

AE82 FXGT · Post by **AE82 FXGT** » Thu Oct 09, 2008 9:03 pm

The seals don't fail to often I've found, but what usually cause an issue like this is the piston of the caliper getting seized with a rust build up around the seal area.

So yeah if thats the prob it will be hard to push in or even move.

Adoom · Post by **Adoom** » Fri Oct 10, 2008 9:11 am

I'd rekit them and with new pistons as well. The kits usually dont cost much but that last dust seal that goes on the end of the piston is a biarch to get on. Make sure you get some brake assembly/rubber grease when you buy the kit cause it makes the rubber slide over the piston better and less chance you will tear it trying to get the bastard on.

cat007 · Post by **cat007** » Fri Oct 10, 2008 10:42 am

Adoom wrote:I'd rekit them and with new pistons as well. The kits usually dont cost much but that last dust seal that goes on the end of the piston is a biarch to get on. Make sure you get some brake assembly/rubber grease when you buy the kit cause it makes the rubber slide over the piston better and less chance you will tear it trying to get the b**tard on.

Any idea's roughly what the rebiuld kit's worth? And where you get it from?

lucasthefallen · Post by **lucasthefallen** » Fri Oct 10, 2008 11:05 am

genuine toyota kits arent that expensive, and they come with the special grease required ( not rubber grease )

1I1 · Post by **1I1** » Fri Oct 10, 2008 12:23 pm

cat007 wrote:
Adoom wrote:I'd rekit them and with new pistons as well. The kits usually dont cost much but that last dust seal that goes on the end of the piston is a biarch to get on. Make sure you get some brake assembly/rubber grease when you buy the kit cause it makes the rubber slide over the piston better and less chance you will tear it trying to get the b**tard on.

Any idea's roughly what the rebiuld kit's worth? And where you get it from?

...Toyota kits retail for $76.50

cat007 · Post by **cat007** » Fri Oct 10, 2008 12:25 pm

per corner I assume??....

1I1 · Post by **1I1** » Fri Oct 10, 2008 12:27 pm

cat007 wrote:per corner I assume??....

For front pair

rollaholic · Post by **rollaholic** » Fri Oct 10, 2008 1:34 pm

must say genuine parts seem to get more competitve by the day, specially for toyotas. tis awesome to see!

OMG so shiny! · Post by **Dell'Orto** » Fri Oct 10, 2008 4:32 pm

Yeah most genuine parts have come down in price, they had to really. That said, if you want something that isnt fast moving, thats where they make their margins again

AE82 FXGT · Post by **AE82 FXGT** » Fri Oct 10, 2008 4:47 pm

I think TGP kits don't come with pistons, so if your piston/s is scored or pitted etc then you would need to buy new pistons too.

Of course you won't know till you've pulled it apart, or you could go on the safe side and get pistons when you get the kit and do them anyway (I would depending on cost).

JRS · Post by **JRS** » Sun Oct 12, 2008 11:24 am

have you tried driving down the middle of the road instead of the left side?

some cars follow the camber of the road more than others.

Emperor · Post by **Emperor** » Sun Oct 12, 2008 6:10 pm

or try a shoppin mall car park and brake there

flygt4 · Post by **flygt4** » Sun Oct 12, 2008 6:47 pm

rollaholic wrote:must say genuine parts seem to get more competitve by the day, specially for toyotas. tis awesome to see!

the kit i got for my 101 was about that price i think, but they only have in them a couple of rubber boots, a small bag of pink brake grease and a couple of the round boot clips, so really, they're not doing too badly out of it :lol: