N/A 4AGE BUILD

[AE92-5ONIC]

Hi all,

I’m looking at doing an N/A 4AGE build on my small port and looking for ideas to get the most power for the least coin while maintaining it as a daily driver.

At the moment I’m thinking of upping the CR to around 10.5 through using over sized domed pistons with standard small port rods, shaving the a bit off the head (unsure how much at the moment). Lightening the flywheel (grinding it down). Not sure what I’m going to do to the head, possibly 3 angle valves and basic rebuild.

Cam shafts & gears are on the list also, but the cash involved in getting the cams done will be a little excessive for the moment being as will have to go for programmable ECU.

What I’m asking is am I going about this build the right way or should I start with the cams and work my way down to pistons/ CR. And what sort of can I be looking at from doing this?

Cheers.

[CAMB01]

A standard smallport has 10.3:1 compresion, so i hope the pistons you are planning on getting are going to better than that?
Shave the head and get a TRD metal headgasket. Compression ratio plays a big part to what cams you want to run.
Maybe a port job on the head. New valve guides makes a difference as well if the old ones are worn.
3+ angle seat job, maybe back cut the inlet valves as well. Port match the inlet manifold.
Lightweight flywheel, balance the rotating assembly including rods and pistons.

There is a heap more you can do, but thats a basic rundown without going to extensive headwork, like cams and springs etc.

[20v_rollaboy]

One of the best n/a 4age builds imo http://forums.toyspeed.org.nz/viewtopic.php?t=67634

[CAMB01]

Thats a good example but that is a 20v engine which responds better to bolt ons than a 16v engine. 16 valve engines respond well to internal modifications and external bolt ons.

[matt dunn]

you would probably be better off with a Blacktop flywheel or an aftermarket one rather than lightening your one.

Matt

[TRD_ZERO]

you would probably be better off with a Blacktop flywheel or an aftermarket one rather than lightening your one.

Matt

+1
Just search for a blacktop flywheel as they are only 100 any more and ur getting ripped off. After market ones are a fair bit pricy and not as common. Id do what cam suggests.

[AE92-5ONIC]

A standard smallport has 10.3:1 compresion, so i hope the pistons you are planning on getting are going to better than that?
Shave the head and get a TRD metal headgasket. Compression ratio plays a big part to what cams you want to run.
Maybe a port job on the head. New valve guides makes a difference as well if the old ones are worn.
3+ angle seat job, maybe back cut the inlet valves as well. Port match the inlet manifold.
Lightweight flywheel, balance the rotating assembly including rods and pistons.

Do you have any idea of how much power I would be able to gain from this? Looking at http://whyturbothat.com/project86%20.html (the work was done on a big port, however he managed to get ~20HP is this output respectable?

[CAMB01]

With a naturally aspirated motor it is quite alot harder to gain more power out of the engine, without doing an extensive amount of work and spending a heap of money.
Do the basics right first then go from there:
High flow air filter with a cold air intake.
A decent set of extractors to suit what you want the car for.
Free flowing exhaust that doesnt sound like crap.
Make sure the electrics are up to scratch, eg. spark plugs, leads, rotor, cap etc.
Injectors are clean and are working properly.
All these things will aid in finding more power plus will even give you more fuel economy.
Once the basics are sorted then start looking for more power from the engine itself.

[Jingle Balls]

the previous owner has done all of that already. what this car needs to go faster is a 20v, ze or a turbo

[AE92-5ONIC]

Found something else the previous owner done last night too, bit of a rusty leak behind the tail lights, all fixed now though. So tell me exactly what you've done because I haven't pulled the engine apart yet?

Not too keen on certing a 20V on it, certing is ~$600 right?

[B_giB]

You shouldn't need a cert for a 20V.

[AE92-5ONIC]

That's what I thought as it is the same capacity, but have been told if you replace any engine in a car it should be certified.

[Kittah]

You shouldn't need a cert for a 20V.

Pretty sure the extra power output would make certification necessary. You may get away with it, though.

[Mr Revhead]

by the letter of the law you need a cert.

[B_giB]

You shouldn't need a cert for a 20V.

Pretty sure the extra power output would make certification necessary. You may get away with it, though.

If the car has the red top small port, He is fine to go with a silver top 4AGE, if I remember correctly its 25% more power you need a cert, so if you put 25% more power on 103 kw = 128.75 kw.

If its the red and black top big port its a different story.

Silver top is 118 kw.

[Mr Revhead]

When substituting an engine, it must be of equal or lesser power.
it must also use the same family head. 16v vs 20v could be enough to need a cert, but sticking in a more powerful engine than the stock one means it must have a cert.

the 20% thing only applies to modifying the stock engine.

that is the letter if the law.

You may get on fine without one... or you may not.

[Malcolm]

btw a cert is more like $400

[tsoob]

btw a cert is more like $400

cert is $525.00


id change it to 20v and keep it quiet, do you really think a cop would know the difference in the heads?

[AE92-5ONIC]

No, but i'm sure if an insurance claim came they would take a decent look.

[Mr Revhead]

Cert price is up to the certifier.
Shop around.