Ok so its not a toyota but a nuts a nut so it shouldnt matter.
Im trying to remove the cv nuts (29mm) off my mx5 so i can remove the axles and diff to put in my new torsen diff.
I have already knocked the punch marks back to allow the nuts to move.
Have soaked the nuts with crc quite a few times and leant on them with a 1/2" drive prybar and a 2m cheater bar with no luck.(actually broke the power bar with dad leaning on it )
Are there any other techniques that i could try or do i have to find a rattle gun?
1998 5dr Glanza V Replica - 5E-FHE powered
1990 Mazda MX5 NA6C drift build - Met a wall 2/5/15
Rattle gun will need to be half decent by the sounds of it. I had the same problem when pulling my gearbox out. Ended up jumping up and down on the breaker bar
We tried more leverage by using 2m of plumbing pipe but the breaker bar well... broke
Think dad is going to try bring home his works rattle gun(he sells quarry machinery so it should be suitable )
Otherwise i may end up just chucking the car down the road to my usual mechanic and leaving it with them
1998 5dr Glanza V Replica - 5E-FHE powered
1990 Mazda MX5 NA6C drift build - Met a wall 2/5/15
Had the same problem with the mr2 axle nuts. -> Solution was to go ask nicely at the local tyre shop if they could get one of their fleet service trucks to pop in. bout 10 secs with the big rattle gun (3/4" drive?) they use for truck wheel nuts and no more problems.
Reality: A nasty hallucination that is caused by excess blood in the alcohol stream.
Cool. Dad has told me to drop into his work and they'll hit it with the rattle gun. Depending how much stuff they have to do i might be able to do the whole swap there.
1998 5dr Glanza V Replica - 5E-FHE powered
1990 Mazda MX5 NA6C drift build - Met a wall 2/5/15
i normally stick a screwdriver in the brake vane against the caliper, grab my 1/2 strong arm and then push down. When I need to, I grab my jack handle for more leverage. And no, haven't had a brake vane break yet *touch wood
GT Four Adovansu "I want to enjoy the powerful and nimble agility behavior."
well ya learn something every day. i always thought all that small jap stuff was 30 or 32.
that bar doesnt look much chop though.
and i prefer to have someone standing on the brakes myself, or you can break the nut with the car on the ground if your wheels give enough access then jack it up to fully take it off
heaps of CRC and a decent paint stripper gun.
got a cheap as Cobra gun that delivers enough heat for stubborn nuts, but not enough heat to do damage like gas would
I've been a bad bad boy. I should read the rules and behave before I get spanked by an admin
remember doing something similar on someones suggestion once. My god have i never shat my pants so much.
With stubborn nuts i'll get a pry bar or w/e and put it on the nut edges and wallop the shit out of it a few times with a hammer, then go back onto it with the power bar. May take a few trys with each and a lot of cussing. But the shock of the hammer can sometimes work.
On the sierra rear end in my lotus 7, had similar problem, other side came off easy as, took ages to work out one side was left hand, therefore had been trying to do it up tighter all day!
I bought a 3/4" set from supercheap just for this type of thing (after breaking two 1/2" bars within a few minutes). Stick a 4 foot jack handle on the end of the bar and heave on it... no problem.