my car never stops having issues!! picked car up yeseterday from shop to check battery going flat, raped it home, today noticed oil on tip of exhaust, check under car all underneath, traced it back to the cover above crank pulley, motor done 130ks so id say original oil pump, only thing is i havent been able get the new ATI pulley i put on off, even tried the starter trick with jamming it into driveway, will have another go once i get a massive extention bar/pipe
anyway i took a pic of where the most oil is coming from and i have taken the belt tension out in the pic. its gotta be the oil pump? or crank shaft seal?
im aware motor has to be pulled out to do oil pump so trying to avoid that.
current: 96' Supra RZS single Gt42 490kw at 20psi, daily - Hiace 2.7 van '05
previous: 92' mr2 g-limited, fuls gen 2 turbo conversion, steel ct20b, external etc etc drift car: 94' silvia s14 sr20det 307kw @18psi
Unlikely to be oil pump, my is on either the cam seals leaking, or more likely, the front crank seal.
1988 KE70 Wagon - Slowly rusting 1990 NA6 MX-5 - because reasons 2018 Ranger - Because workcar 1997 FD3S RX-7 Type R - all brap, all the time OMG so shiny!
Yeah, so likely crank seal is worn out, 130k is too much for one. Never done one on a Supra myself, but looking at that pic it should be a doddle in place
1988 KE70 Wagon - Slowly rusting 1990 NA6 MX-5 - because reasons 2018 Ranger - Because workcar 1997 FD3S RX-7 Type R - all brap, all the time OMG so shiny!
sweet as, becuase the oil pump doesnt seem to have any oil on it, will update once a get a big pipe and undo the damn pulley. still have new crank seal aswell as never used them, fingers crossed.
current: 96' Supra RZS single Gt42 490kw at 20psi, daily - Hiace 2.7 van '05
previous: 92' mr2 g-limited, fuls gen 2 turbo conversion, steel ct20b, external etc etc drift car: 94' silvia s14 sr20det 307kw @18psi
I would check very carefully for cam seal leaks before ripping everything else off, as so many people have had leaking cam seals over the years as it can be pretty hit and miss getting them to seal perfectly.
If you can definitely see no trace of oil below the cams, the as others have said, its more than likely the FMS.
If you are going to replace it, then be very careful how you go about it as if you push it in too far, it will cause issues, and its very easy to push in too far.
You can also get some grub screws put in to secure it in the future.
What sort of oil are you running, and when you say you raped your car on the way home, was it on reasonably thick, cold oil?
cam seals are a couple months old and i run no cover and they are clean. oil seems to be flung up from crank spinning, and oil leak is pretty bad whole subframe was dripping. havent been able tell for sure as havent got the pulley off.
i always let car get warm before boosting, so yea warm not super hot oil. 15w50 motul oil.
yea i been reading up and some people say higher rpm's can cause the oil to not drain into pump quik enough and causes pressure to build up behind seal popping it out??? and recomend a new pump and drilling out the hole. but dont want to go into the changing pump if i dont have to as it will be a mission.
current: 96' Supra RZS single Gt42 490kw at 20psi, daily - Hiace 2.7 van '05
previous: 92' mr2 g-limited, fuls gen 2 turbo conversion, steel ct20b, external etc etc drift car: 94' silvia s14 sr20det 307kw @18psi
Unless you have increased bearing clearances, a 50 weight is going to be pretty darn thick, and the engine will run higher OP too, especially when not up to 95/100 deg C.
What sort of PCV system are you running? PCV in place, plumbed to intake manifold, and exhuast cam cover going to turbo inlet?
A BIG rattle gun will see to it if the 5ft bar cant get it done.
If you want to run a catch can, at the very least I would recommend getting some vacuum back into the system, by plumbing it back into the turbo inlet.
If you want to run a catch can, at the very least I would recommend getting some vacuum back into the system, by plumbing it back into the turbo inlet.
any reason for this? the crank case can get air via the little filter so pressure should def not be able to build up?
current: 96' Supra RZS single Gt42 490kw at 20psi, daily - Hiace 2.7 van '05
previous: 92' mr2 g-limited, fuls gen 2 turbo conversion, steel ct20b, external etc etc drift car: 94' silvia s14 sr20det 307kw @18psi
If you want to run a catch can, at the very least I would recommend getting some vacuum back into the system, by plumbing it back into the turbo inlet.
any reason for this? the crank case can get air via the little filter so pressure should def not be able to build up?
The system is designed to have vacuum on it, period. Not having the PCV system in places on most vehicles makes it run worse, and in the 2j's case, when boosted hard can contribute to FMS failure.
A catch can is great for an actual race car/separating oil vapours and moisture etc, but pretty much unnecessary in 90% of street car cases.
All you need to do is remove the filter on the catch can and fit a hose from there to the turbo inlet pipe, so its pretty easy.
anyone got a 3/4 drive rattle gun that has serious power? i mean i will have to take rad out to get gun in there but thats no biggy, ive tried 2m bar now and snapped it inhalf, any other tips of getting this C**T bolt out, last time it was tight but now its even tighter and i made sure not to tighten it too much when throwing the ati pulley on, it tries to move the car in 6th gear with handbrake on!
current: 96' Supra RZS single Gt42 490kw at 20psi, daily - Hiace 2.7 van '05
previous: 92' mr2 g-limited, fuls gen 2 turbo conversion, steel ct20b, external etc etc drift car: 94' silvia s14 sr20det 307kw @18psi
Remove radiator so it easy to access then wave beer/beer tokens under the nose of a fleet tyre truck driver. Onboard compressor plus 3/4" rattle gun and all your problems are solved.
Reality: A nasty hallucination that is caused by excess blood in the alcohol stream.