3sgte - Blown headgasket

[headshotnz]

So my mr2 died the other night.

I pulled over, tried to start it, it would start for 2 seconds, wouldn't rev, then cut out straight away.

it was 4 in the morning so i left it were it was and walked home because it was too late at night..

Got back in the morning, looked in the engine bay as i thought that more than likely a hose had popped off or some thing silly like that.

I couldn't see any thing.. and it still wouldn't start, funnily enough

I look under the oil cap, and what do you know, milky white shit for Africa..

Considering its a fully rebuilt engine I'm not particularly happy..

What is everyone's thoughts on why the gasket blew?

Also i assume that's generally the only reason why milky stuff comes under the oilcap?

[Malcolm]

Don't be so hasty! Water is a normal byproduct of combustion, it can leak through the rings and when combined with oil vapour can cause a milky residue to form in the oil cap, the only sure sign of a blown headgasket is chocolate milk in the coolant. Also it wouldn't usually cause an engine to not start/stop running - that's more likely to be something catastrophic or an electrical gremlin. Does it sound like it has compression when cranking? Have you checked error codes?

[headshotnz]

Hmm abit of positive insight thanks Malcolm,

No I'm towing it home tomorrow its currently parked 15 minutes away from home at the moment.

Catastrophic?

I'm assuming if it didn't have compression it would sound notably different before it died?

Ill be sure to check for codes as soon as i get it home tomorrow

[levinguy]

does it crank over at normal speed? if so does it spark? like Malcolm said, don't just assume its the headgasket, wouldn't think it would just happen like that

[wde_bdy]

Condensation collects in the highest point of the engine, my 4K-E for example (with the very tall filler neck due to the EFI setup) will collect a lot of moisture/milky shit doing lots of short trips. Give it a decent run and get it heated up on a decent trip and absolutely no issues.

Callum

[strx7]

sounds like your air flow meter died........

[headshotnz]

Yeah it sparks. Well the engine starts for literally two seconds then dies.

Before the other night there was only one issue with the engine. It was horrible to drive between 2k and 3k RPM, It had new leads and now rotor, and new plugs (i put other new plugs in that was in a spare engine that i had that i knew worked) and was still doing it.

So i had the intention of seeing if the TPS was faulty(dead spot in the range?) or if the TPS was wrongly aligned.

Say for instance the TPS did die, would the engine dying be a symptom of the TPS?

Maybe its not allowing fuel into the engine hence why it wont idle?

[headshotnz]

sounds like your air flow meter died........

To be fair, yes i did think this at first, well i thought maybe it had come unplugged.

I have a spare i can try tomorrow, Cheers for that mate

[Grrrrrrr!]

Double check the connector on the AFM is on properly, and double check for any leaks in the intake piping. The AFM is the primary input for fuel metering at low throttle/revs and it also controls the fuel pump so if that has come loose/failed somehow it'll run like s*it at low revs and stop often. Another thing that may be worth trying is jumpering the fuel pump to run continuously.
I'm not 100% sure, but i think you need to jumper B+ to FP in the diagnostics connector. Somebody on here will correct me if i'm wrong no doubt.

OR you could borrow a known good AFM and swap that in to see if anything changes.

[headshotnz]

Double check the connector on the AFM is on properly, and double check for any leaks in the intake piping. The AFM is the primary input for fuel metering at low throttle/revs and it also controls the fuel pump so if that has come loose/failed somehow it'll run like s*it at low revs and stop often. Another thing that may be worth trying is jumpering the fuel pump to run continuously.
I'm not 100% sure, but i think you need to jumper B+ to FP in the diagnostics connector. Somebody on here will correct me if i'm wrong no doubt.

OR you could borrow a known good AFM and swap that in to see if anything changes.

Cheers mate, B+ to FP sounds about right, ill double check online any way.

I have a spare AFM from my other mr2 and ill check again for vacuum leaks.

Thanks again for all the help every one, ill post up my findings tomorrow

[Dell'Orto]

TBH I wouldnt be surprised if the AFM did cark it, it had been sitting in the boot for a while before I got it, and was fairly coated in oxidisation.

[Malcolm]

Actually the air leak thing is also pretty likely - it's very common to get splits in the hose in the rubber inlet hose before the compressor, and in the rubber connectors in the intercooler piping, have a good visual check over of them.

[Dell'Orto]

Intercooler pipe joiners ought to be fine, most of them are new silicon ones. Worth checking the AFM to turbo pipe though. Sounds exactly like what it did to me when it blew the bottom intercooler pipe off too

[headshotnz]

hahahahaha. I bet you two too it

Thats the bit that comes off the compressor.

$&#$%, do i feel like a right knob end.



Some thing just doesnt look right...

Lucky i have a spare that i can use from my other mr2...

Will go test now to see if its ok.

Thanks for the help none the less Malcom. Brad and every one else.

James

[Malcolm]

you're ruining the carpet

[strx7]

thats what you get from using those style of hose clamps they cut their way thru the pipe.

[Dell'Orto]

You'd think Toyota would know better

[Lloyd]

Toyota/everyotherjapanesemanufacturer

[headshotnz]

:evil: you're ruining the carpet

Good, there shouldnt be carpet in the garage, period



FIXED!! and holy hell, its now boosting some were between 17 and 19 psi :O

Id say it had an airleak down there the whole time.

This blitz ECU must be tuned for a ct20b, it would destroy ct26's...

[Dell'Orto]

You might wanna try get that under control, or it will end up with a BHG Must be $&#$% quick!