Toyspeed

high compression pistons like that are designed for large overlap camshafts. if the intake valve doesn't close until the piston is half way back up the the bore again then you don't get the amount the full amount of compression indicated by the CR.

the later the intake valves close the more ...

he didn't do a test with the butterflies and shaft removed so the whole exercise was pointless.

MAGN1T wrote:It's only an intermediate step, doesn't matter. The purpose of the intermediate steps is to ensure the bolts are done up evenly.

This isn't true for the angular torque method.

"Don't believe everything you read."

rebuilding your current motor will net far more power than any used blacktop you're likely to find.

but "stock" just isn't cool ya know.

Yeah im never going back there, i asked for hi temp front brake pads, which was all good, but they didnt think of putting good fluid in & put lesser than what was origionally in there.



how do YOU know what sort of fluid was used and wether it is good or bad? it's simply a float switch in the ...

smear rubber grease on the o-ring before pushing the pipe in. other wise the ring can roll out of it's groove.

have you driven a car with urethane engine mounts?

the vibration is pretty harsh. all good for a track toy but i couldn't live with it in a daily driver.

that said, the only ones i've driven were four cylinders, a big 6 might not be so bad.

have you tried driving down the middle of the road instead of the left side?

some cars follow the camber of the road more than others.

if a dude was getting custom crank made youd think it would be knife edged too.
let me rephrase that, how does a 20v make 357ps NA without the crank being knife edged?

knife-edging is a method for removing weight from an existing crank design. a custom crank will have the require mass designed ...

sounds like bore wash. common on VQ engines but I guess SR's could do it too.

it's gonna be hard to diagnose unless it does it regularly though.

Rumad wrote:even the starter cable...

name one common car that has this.

snwtoy wrote:For 2 large you'd get a jvc cd+mp3 player!

is our ecomomy in such a bad state that "2 large" has now become two HUNDRED dollars?

the reason for not soldering is the wire is nichrome and not coper and it can't be soldered with standerd soldering equipment (stuck togther /= soldered btw).

in addition, even if you used the correct soldering equipment i beleiev the joint can develop a significant voltage across it when the ...

but it's not as accurate as a real voltmeter and you can't take measurmets at various points in the charging system for making a diagnosis.

at least it was only a non-turbo, auto that was sacrificed.

Snoozin wrote:Cordia is a hatch, a coupe by definition has a boot.

I choose mazda RX7 then.

are you going to remove the system and do another run?

anything below the spring platform is holding up the weight of the car. so a cut and weld here is not advised. above the platform is just there to hold the shock into the strut casing. so it's ok to cut here but you change the distance from the platform to the top of the insert housing.

spacer is ...

undo the 2 bolts holding the strut to the hub. this is how every mechanic does it.

the dowell will be there. the tnesioner in the image is installed backwards.

the fange witht he holes should eb facing the motor.

the dowel only sticks out 3 or 4 mm. it's highl unlikely that it's not there.

take a photo of your motor and post it here.